DC1 is not 'cutting' it

[OmeGa101]

Hey guys,

I recently just got myself a 7424 and was so excited about playing with it! so couple days ago, i went out and cleaned my interior, washed, clayed my NBP ( BLACK ) Acura TL and was just about to use the 3 step DC system with my 7424.

Well, i started on my trunk, did about 1/3 of the trunk, with the DC1 + 8006 pad and it didn't remove ALL the scratches... Was still a lot on it.. I tried again went slower this time more pressure, and it turned out MUCH better but still had lots of scratches.. I went out and got some scratchX and applied it by hand... it got better but still not perfect or anything near that.. I was wondering which product i should use now since the DC1 just isn't cutting it.. I did not try the DC2 over where i DC1 but i doubt that'd make a difference since DC1 is the cleaner and dc2 just brings the gloss out..

I was thinking of using #83 if i can get my hand on some ( live in canada) =\... If i were to use this, does that mean i can cancel out the dc1 stage? and just go #83 -> DC2 -> Nxt x2 ?


One last question, Do u guys do the whole car with cleaner, THEN polish or clean/polish one spot and then move on to the next?


Thank you all, i love this website very informative!

[Mark McGuire]

Re: DC1 is not 'cutting' it

Hey,
DC1 is a chemical cleaner meaning that it has no cutting ability. The removal of some of the scatches was probably from the pad cutting them. My recommendation, since you want to clean and polish, would be to use M80 since it is a cleaner-polish. Since you removed some of the scratches with the DC1,and pad, your paint is either soft or the scatches are minimal. You should do very well with the M80.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: DC1 is not 'cutting' it

Actually, DC1 offers both diminishing abrasives and chemical cleaners.

That said it is purposefully a very light cleaner for when you only need light cleaning, also look what line it's in.

If DC1 isn't aggressive enough then you should probably check out M80 next.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: DC1 is not 'cutting' it

DC1 and ScratchX are both excellent products but since they are over the counter, consumer grade products intended to be used by hand (primarily at least as the average consumer does not own a G110/PC) they are a bit limited in what they can do.

Since you've taken the plunge and now possess a 7424 I'd say it's time to take everything else to the next level. Get yourself some M80 - it's a good deal more aggressive than either of the two products you've tried, has a very long play time, is easy to use, and gets great results. Since you were able to make some headway with DC1 and ScratchX I would think M80 would serve you well.

[Mark McGuire]

Re: DC1 is not 'cutting' it

Thanks Mike, I stand corrected. I usually use MPPC when cleaning my paint because is has abrasives, more so than DC1, but its nice to know when the MPPC is gone I can go back to DC1 for cleaning and be able to remove light swrils.

[Mort Corey]

Re: DC1 is not 'cutting' it

With the products you already have on hand, I would try a test spot using ScratchX with the 8006 pad, especially since you said it did make an improvement by hand.

Mort

[Silverado12]

Re: DC1 is not 'cutting' it

As the other's have already said, since you've upgraded to the 7424, all you need to do now is upgrade to the professional line of products to compliment the PC. I'd personally recommend M80 Speed Glaze; it's easy to work with and can remove 99% of swirl marks on most finishes, as long as the paint isn't severely swirled or scratched up. If the paint is in pretty bad shape, I'd definitely step up to M83.

[OmeGa101]

Re: DC1 is not 'cutting' it

Im pretty sure my paint has been damaged pretty badly, i am gonna go straight to the #83, my cars 5 years old and never been detailed properly.

I am gonan go out and get #83 with a 8006 pad. Some questions though,

1. Do i have to follow up with #80 after applying #83? I was plannning on using DC 2 after #83..

2. Is there any benefits with using DC1 AFTER i #83? Or should i just go straight to DC2?


Thanks guys

[onawrxhigh]

Re: DC1 is not 'cutting' it

Im pretty sure my paint has been damaged pretty badly, i am gonna go straight to the #83, my cars 5 years old and never been detailed properly.

I am gonan go out and get #83 with a 8006 pad. Some questions though,

1. Do i have to follow up with #80 after applying #83? I was plannning on using DC 2 after #83..

2. Is there any benefits with using DC1 AFTER i #83? Or should i just go straight to DC2?


Thanks guys

OmeGa101,

I understand that your paint is 5 years only and never detailed properly, but I would suggest doing 80 first then if you are not getting the results you want then step up to 83.
1) I would suggest it only because you may have some hazing/micro marring on the paint after 83 and repolishing it with 80 will remove the hazing/micro marring and create clear shinny paint. Using a pure polish after 83 may or may no do anything for you. If you are left with a hazy micro marred finish dc2 with not help remove the hazing, but if after 83 their ais no hazing/ micro marring then you can use it to help add oils back to the paint. If you are going to use 80 this product contains a lot of the Meguiars trade secret polishing oils to help replenish your paint killing 2 birds with one stone so to speak. I really suggest using 80 first as I have a feeling that you will get the results you are looking for with it.

2) there is really no benefits to using dc1 after 83 or anyother cleaner polish.

Andrew

[OmeGa101]

Re: DC1 is not 'cutting' it

Hey onawrxhigh, thanks for the reply,

I have also tried Scratch X by hand on some spots, it doesn't remove all the scratches still many left, just wondering if #80 is more aggressive than this? I am thinking of goign straight to #83 because over here in canada, one 8006 is $30 and the polish is 30$ aswell, and i dont wanan go out and get #80 to find out its not strong enough, and have to end up buying Another pad + #83 =\.... If i were to go #83 and some haziness were to show up, the onli way to make it go away is #80? If so i guess its safer to just go #80

If i were to #80, Which step in the DC do i still have to do? DC1? DC2? or just go straight to NXT wax?


Thank again for reading everyone =]

[Tim Lingor]

Re: DC1 is not 'cutting' it

Hey onawrxhigh, thanks for the reply,

I have also tried Scratch X by hand on some spots, it doesn't remove all the scratches still many left, just wondering if #80 is more aggressive than this? I am thinking of goign straight to #83 because over here in canada, one 8006 is $30 and the polish is 30$ aswell, and i dont wanan go out and get #80 to find out its not strong enough, and have to end up buying Another pad + #83 =\.... If i were to go #83 and some haziness were to show up, the onli way to make it go away is #80? If so i guess its safer to just go #80

If i were to #80, Which step in the DC do i still have to do? DC1? DC2? or just go straight to NXT wax?


Thank again for reading everyone =]

After using the M80 Speed Glaze you can right to the NXT Wax and apply and remove 2 coats in order to provide uniform coverage.

Tim

[OmeGa101]

Re: DC1 is not 'cutting' it

Hey guys,

So i went out and got #80 today instead of #83 since all of you guys suggested i try #80 first lol. Well i have work in about an hour so tmr morning i will start my detailing again!

Just some questions though,

Once i washed + dried... ( i clayed last week already ) i go straight to #80 with a 8006 pad, after that should i use dc1 or dc2? would there be ANY benefits at all? or should i go straight to nxt wax with 9006? Just feels like a waste to have 2 full bottles of dc1 and dc2 and not use it, lols


Thanks guys, hopfully i get an answer so i can start my detailing tmr! =)

[Michael Stoops]

Re: DC1 is not 'cutting' it

You may see some benefit in using DC2 because it's a pure polish so it might add some depth and gloss to the paint. Try half the hood first and see what you think, but since M80 is already quite rich in polishing oils you may not notice much.

But look at this way: in your initial post to start this thread you said DC1 got rid of some of the defects in your paint but not all. Once you get everything dealt with using M80 you just need to make sure your maintenance routine is such that you don't introduce a lot of marring in the future. Over time though you will see new swirls start to appear. Unless you park the car in a hermetically sealed bubble and never drive it, defects will occur. Catch them early though and you should be able to knock those spots back using DC1 by hand, or by machine if need be.

Every couple of months before you apply a fresh coat of wax, apply a coat of DC2 by hand. It's fast and easy and will help keep the gloss and depth at their best. You'll still get your money's worth out of these two bottles.