"Perfecting" NEW Paint Job?

[cyberized]

I am "roller Painting" my El-camino and for the most part it is coming out GREAT - BUT - there are certain areas, because you are not spraying the paint on, that you have areas that are like "seam lines" [a little rough] where you have rolled from one side and the other and where your roll ended in the middle. Also, some places of minor orange peel...........in stead of trying to get the PERFECT Roll ON w/o any imperfections like the above....Can someone please tell me IF once I get enough paint on [now] and minmal areas that need smoothing out......can I STOP painting and depend on use of Compounding\polish etc. and a G110 [Color Sanding] to "perfect" my roller job?
IF so - please recommend the products that would be best to do this work..................and

TKS Michael

[Mike Phillips]

Re: "Perfecting" NEW Paint Job?

Sure can.

What kind of paint are you using? Rustoleum?

Regardless, let it dry really good for at least a week, brush on paints typically are not going to be as hard as a paint gun sprayed automotive clear coat.

Have you ever sanded and buffed a car before?

You're going to want some sanding paper, the highest quality you can find and afford, a compound, a wool pad and a rotary buffer.

You're going to want to test a small area to see how the paint is sanding and buffing, after you find this out if there are any problems you can ask for more help, if there are no problems then continue around the car.

You don't want to go into this project with the idea or goal of removing all your sanding marks using a DA Polisher. You might be able to remove sanding marks using a DA Polisher but over the entire car it's going to take a lot of time and a rotary buffer is so much more efficient as well as fast.

As far as products go, what do you have already?

We offer you a number of products to remove your sanding marks, including our new M105, M95, M86, M85, M84 and #1, #2 and #4 in our Traditional Mirror Glaze line. Just about any of these should remove sanding marks out of a brushed on paint job.

Then you'll want to re-polish the paint to remove any swirls and after the paint is fully dried you'll want to apply a protective product.

Again, what kind of paint are you using and just for fun... what are you working on?

[cyberized]

Re: "Perfecting" NEW Paint Job?

TKS Mike,
I am re-painting my 1984 El Camino, 2 Tone, with Interlux Brightside 1 Part Poyurethane enamel; it is quite abit more expensive than Rustoleum BUT from all reports and appearances it seems like it is well worth it.
Because I do not have a garage or even a carport I have been working on it since the 12th of FEB, started initial sanding and some bondo work then - HOURS of prep of course......but have been using neighbors car ports to paint under and yesterday laid down the 4th coat of LT Blue [top and bottom] and 3rd coat of DK Blue [main body]. From a distance right now it looks FANTASTIC......tomorrow I will wet sand down the hood AGAIN [forgot to continue thinning my paint and got quite a few places of orange peel this time] and repaint it on SAT - weather permitting.
Thus it is - I am, Thank God, nearing completion of this project and trying to get ready for the NEXT phase - using abrasive compounds to buff it out and polish and then finish it off with a good wax.
I will post a couple photos of it before and after - once I get this all done and the tape off of it......that will be a major project itself, was using the 3M 14 day painter's tape but it has been on there for over a month now and is painted on in many places.

PS - - - I can't and won't be using a Rotary Buffer, I'd burn this paint for sure; I plan to buy your G110, hopefully in a good kit that has the pads etc. that I will need to do this next stage. The places to Color Sand out are not to large and their would not be too many.

TKS Michael