G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

[VonLego]

Hey folks I'm finally laying the G110 down the the paint many months after joining this site. Currently the car is in the garage, and claying is almost done. I plan on a 80 series detail followed with NXT. 7 might find its way in too, or at least tested (unsure how useful it will be).

Questions I have:

How do I safely tape off? I purchased some painters tape, but do I need to fully cover all windows etc?

How long will it take for "one pass" of 80 or 83? (assuming about 1/4 the size of the hood right?)

Thanks, any other tips are VERY welcome. I'm excited to finally kill some swirls!

[Ryan L.]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

First off, good luck with the G110, its a AWESOME machine.

As to your questions, look through these two threads and feel free to ask any further questions you have. I have a feeling that both of these will cover your questions and some more.

Using the G-100 to Remove Swirls with the Professional Line

Looking for the right way to mask off trim

The first thread is just kind off some general tips. As for how long it will take to do one pass, probably between 45 seconds to a 1 1/2. Thats just a rough estimate, I honestly can't put a specific time down because different cars have different paints. Another thing is weather, if its hot, the product may dry faster, etc.

Here are some further tips...

Problems and Solutions when using the G100/PC Dual Action Polisher
Cleaning Your Pad on the Fly

Again, feel free to ask any further questions you have!!

Good luck,
Ryan

[SIC]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

As far as taping off goes, I normally tape the rubber trim that surrounds every window, and all creveces and lines throughout the car (i.e. door seems, around lights, rubber trim, logos/model logos, etc.) The idea being that you don't want wax/polish etc. to be applied to those areas. Once I'm done taping off, the only thing that should be exposed is the paint.

But to directly answer your question, I just outline the windows with tape, and that works okay for me.

Have fun tomorrow.

[VonLego]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

Thanks folks, especially for that tape link. I'll read the g100 guide in depth tomorrow (read it before, good stuff)

[Murr1525]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

It is probably in the link, but remember you can cover larger areas with tape around the edges, then newspaper taped up.

[VonLego]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

New questions/concerns folks:

How do I work paint that is difficult to get to with the machine? Examples being around the pony emblem, around door handles, or even empty fog light sockets.

What product would work best for working by hand in said locations?

I removed the dealer tag, but prefer to keep all stock badging on. Is it standard to remove badging? How do you get it back on when you do?

Thanks again folks

[TwinSport]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

Cleaning Your Pad on the Fly

Again, feel free to ask any further questions you have!!

Good luck,
Ryan

Hi mates,

can I also use a microfiber towel instead of a terry towel?


Regards,
Sebastian

[tguil]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

About taping. Tried it and found it was too time consuming. You don't have to worry much about splatter with a pc. When I polish and wax my trucks, I do the open areas with the pc and the areas close to the trim by hand -- very carefully. Yesterday I waxed my wife's Tacoma -- 45 minutes start to finish. It would have taken me longer than that to mask it.

You may, however, want to do a bit of masking until you get the feel for the pc.

Have fun!!!

Tom

[southpactire]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

If that is your car in your avatar, is it a Mustang convertible?

Word from the wise...In other words "someone who has already made this mistake" If you are working on a convertible...make sure you put the top down and cover the interior with somethin like a bed sheet or painters masking film. Evidently I am messier than the guy who said you won't get splatter with a PC. The first time I polished by machine it was on a 380SL convertible with a dark brown Haartz cloth top...the splatter was a pain to clean up.

I also use LOTS of tape! Be really cautious of any textured plastic areas...around the wipers comes to mind on my Mustang.

Mike's thread about taping is excellent...I just wish I had read it before my first two attempts!

Have Fun!

[tguil]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

Yep, Mike's article was great and if you want to be super cautious go for it.

When I use a rotary buffer, I mask stuff - edges because I don't want the take the chance of burning through the paint and trim because I don' t want it to be covered with spatter or even worse, ripped off. But really, a pc doesn't throw stuff around that much for me even at the 5 setting. A lot must have to do with technique.

One other thing, my vehicles are well maintained and I usually do not have to get very aggressive with either the product I am using or the use of the pc. If I were detailing a vehicle that was sort of a "mess", I might mask it off.

Tom

[Mike Phillips]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

Hi mates,

can I also use a microfiber towel instead of a terry towel?

Regards,
Sebastian

You can, but a fluffy cotton towel, that is a cotton towel with a large nap, (the nap is the actual loops of cotton fiber), works better because the cotton fibers will act to draw-out the liquid from the foam which is the goal of cleaning your pad on the fly.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

New questions/concerns folks:

How do I work paint that is difficult to get to with the machine? Examples being around the pony emblem, around door handles, or even empty fog light sockets.

What product would work best for working by hand in said locations?

When it comes to tight or hard to buff areas you just do the best you can and what you can't reach by machine you do by hand and in most cases you can use M80, ScratchX or Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner. Keep in mind the machine almost always will do a better job at removing swirls and leaving behind a show car finish, so the areas you work by hand may not look as good as the areas you work by machine, it just depends upon a lot of factors like how polishable or workable you car's paint is by hand as well as your skill level and the amount of time you're willing to invest into the hand areas.

Hope this helps...

[VonLego]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

I think I'll leave my top up, its vynal so no biggie if something hits it.

Been taping like a mad man--- Family laughed at the tri-bar pony turning blue with tape! (off topic but WOW claying these makes them pop!!!!)

Will run a test section on the hood within a few hours with 80. I believe I have some very minor rotary marring, I'll try to include that.

Oh, and yes my avatar is my personal vehicle. That was after my first detail (wash, clay, nxt, tires only).

[VonLego]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

Ok I'm very pleased with the results so far, but am unable to take out the few strips of rotary marring with 83; however,

I keep working to a dry buff. I read about this over and over yet figured I'd be able to not do it... but I am. What are some rookie mistakes resuling in a dry buff?

Pads shouldn't need cleaning yet... ran each in the same spot a few times. I used different pads for different products. I'm concerned I'm pushing down on it to much, but even when I lightened up the dry buff still occured.

I'm making X's on my pad about the size of my palm, then kissing the paint three or four times and going at it. I'm working a very small section- just the front/mid part of the hood (lowered section in my avatar). I felt that was stretching it a bit so I broke that section into two, about a tenth of the hood. Same deal.

[Ryan L.]

Re: G110 Hitting my paint tomorrow! Questions!

M83 is a really tricky product...I would lighten up a lot and work it longer to compensate for the lighter pressure. One more thing is to not do the X on the pad, put the product in a circle on the very out edge of the pad.

Couple things with the dry buff:
1) Are you making sure to clean your pad on the fly? With M83 I would clean your pad after every pass, it is a very gummy product.
2) What speed setting are you using? With M83, I tend to actually use a lower speed, less pressure and work much longer. Seems to work better for me.
3) If your still having problems with the M83, try to do more passes with M80 if your more confident with that. While it may take longer, you wont get frustrated and maybe it will produce better results.

Ryan