Scratch-X on New Paint/Clear - Mike?

[kclundy]

I've reviewed the 500+ posts related to how to handle newly painted surfaces, and now want to confirm my understanding on how to proceed.

Just had the hood of my '07 RDX replaced, so it was painted and clear coated at a body shop. They did a really good job, but I noticed a few small areas that only an OCD person like myself would notice where there are some buffer swirls that I'd like to try to eliminate. You have to "place" the flourescent light just so, and look at it from just the right angle to even see the faint "cloudiness." I do not have a buffer nor a DA; I'd be working by hand, presumably with Scratch-X.

I know not to seal the finish with any wax or sealant product for 30 days (per the guy at the body shop, so I'll be waiting 60 days to be safe.) I also am thinking from my review of the posts that it will be easier to get those swirls out by hand the sooner I do it, while the clear coat is still "softer" than it will be when it fully cures and out-gasses.

So here's what I want to confirm. 1.) Scratch-X is the right product for this job, and, 2.) I'm better to do it now before the clearcoat fully cures.

Any thoughts or feedback GREATLY appreciated!

[roushstage2]

Re: Scratch-X on New Paint/Clear - Mike?

I know M80 is body shop safe; for a broader area, probably better and easier to use; and provides a teeny bit of protection.

You could go over the hood gently twice with M80. Besides, if it was just repainted, I wouldn't think you should use something as aggressive as Scratch X can be by hand.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Scratch-X on New Paint/Clear - Mike?

Yes, you want to work the swirls out sooner versus later. It's too bad the shop swirled it out in the first place, it's like paying them to do shoddy work. Problem is if they don't know how to do it right the first time it won't help to let them do it a second time.

Do you already own ScratchX or Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner?

If so, take one of these and a soft, clean microfiber or foam applicator pad and apply to a section about 8" square or so, (as small area), and see if you can make one small area look good.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Scratch-X on New Paint/Clear - Mike?

I know M80 is body shop safe; for a broader area, probably better and easier to use; and provides a teeny bit of protection.

You could go over the hood gently twice with M80. Besides, if it was just repainted, I wouldn't think you should use something as aggressive as Scratch X can be by hand.

Remember, the aggressiveness of any product can be altered by pressure/passion and application material.

In other words ScratchX can be as gentle as skin lotion on your face if you work it gently with a soft applicator pad or more aggressive if you apply it with piece of terry cloth and put some elbow grease behind your hand.

ScratchX isn't body shop safe but it should be okay to use on fresh paint.

The best way to fix this problem is by machine with a cleaner/polish from our Professional Line but the member said he doesn't have a DA polisher and is working by hand.

Success is going to come down to using the right technique pure and simple and if he hasn't rubbed out a lot of paint by hand then this isn't really the best way to learn, that is learning on something that's important to him, it would be better to learn how to use your hand to remove swirls on something that's not important to you, like a beater car.

That's why as a Newbie, choice of applicator material is crucial, not having any experience means using a type of application material that is very forgiving, such as foam or microfiber, not terry cloth.

It sure would be a lot easier to show you how to tackle this type of project in person than by using a keyboard.

[kclundy]

Re: Scratch-X on New Paint/Clear - Mike?

Mike and Tyler - THANKS for your quick replies. I do have both Scratch-X and Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner, and I will follow the guidance that I've seen countless times on this forum; use the least aggressive product to start with , i.e. starting with the DC Paint Cleaner. I'll also make sure I use a foam applicator rather than a MF or terry coated one.

Now that I think about it, I bet the DC Paint Cleaner would take care the very small amount of overspray I have from the job (I had been using Scratch-X for that, and it worked fine, but might as well try the less aggressive product to see if that will handle it.)

Around mid-March, once the hood cures, I'm going to do the full wash (GC shampoo), clay (Meg's consumer line), clean (DC Cleaner), polish (DC Polish), wax (NXT), wax (NXT) process on the whole vehicle to get it ready for spring.

Thanks again, and I'll let you all know how it turns out!

[Murr1525]

Re: Scratch-X on New Paint/Clear - Mike?

Overspray will likely want clay. Stuff that is bonded to the surface can actualy cause tha pad to skip over it, and not actualy be removed.

[roushstage2]

Re: Scratch-X on New Paint/Clear - Mike?

Remember, the aggressiveness of any product can be altered by pressure/passion and application material.

In other words ScratchX can be as gentle as skin lotion on your face if you work it gently with a soft applicator pad or more aggressive if you apply it with piece of terry cloth and put some elbow grease behind your hand.

ScratchX isn't body shop safe but it should be okay to use on fresh paint.

The best way to fix this problem is by machine with a cleaner/polish from our Professional Line but the member said he doesn't have a DA polisher and is working by hand.

Success is going to come down to using the right technique pure and simple and if he hasn't rubbed out a lot of paint by hand then this isn't really the best way to learn, that is learning on something that's important to him, it would be better to learn how to use your hand to remove swirls on something that's not important to you, like a beater car.

That's why as a Newbie, choice of applicator material is crucial, not having any experience means using a type of application material that is very forgiving, such as foam or microfiber, not terry cloth.

It sure would be a lot easier to show you how to tackle this type of project in person than by using a keyboard.

Huh, learn something new everyday from here! Just when you think you have it down

I thought you had to put some "passion" behind Scratch X to make it remove defects? I guess if they aren't too bad though, light pressure would work.

Thanks Mike!

[kclundy]

Re: Scratch-X on New Paint/Clear - Mike?

Murr -
Actually, I've already started working on the overspray, and Scratch-X has taken care of it. Perhaps it's because it is still pretty fresh (less than one week old.)

However, I will move to clay if necessary. I am going to clay and "five step" the whole vehicle once the hood cures.

And perhaps someone might comment on this "discovery" I made... I found that a good way to detect overspray is to GENTLY draw the back of your index and middle finger across the surface of the vehicle, and LISTEN very carefully to what you hear (interestingly, it's not only what you feel.) On a pristine, nicely waxed surface, this action is silent. When you hit an area of overspray, you can actually hear the roughness of the surface; sounds like drawing the backs of your fingers across a piece of paper. I was amazed by this little discovery (which I'm sure the experts in this field already knew about...) Why this works for the back of the fingers and not when using the fronts... maybe has something to do with the fact that the backs of my fingers do not have as much "skin oil" as the fronts????

[Murr1525]

Re: Scratch-X on New Paint/Clear - Mike?

Sounds good.

I havent heard of the back of the fingers, but another fun one is putting your hand in sandwich/zip-lock type of bag, not a real thick walled one though. That seems to magnify the feeling as well.