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Before I got a UDM and started working on my black 98 Corvette, I hired a professional mobile detailer to come over and use a rotary on it to get the major stuff cleaned off. Even then, the finish was not perfect, only about 90% there. I got it to about 95% myself after going over it for about 25-30 hours with the UDM. But I've come to the realization that it'll never be 100% perfect and even if it was, it wouldn't stay that way for long since I drive this car everyday, including the winter. So there is no point beating myself up trying to make it look showroom new. Especially when from 5 feet away it looks flawless! (and does look showroom new from that distance)
Corvette's (C5/C6) use a very hard, catalized clear coat. You will need a high speed machine as well as a fairly agressive compound to actually relevel the clear coat.
I remember when I first did my first Corvette, I made 10 passes with DACP and a yellow megs pad on the pc, and got nothing.
In cases with very hard paint, if the surface is badly swirled, you might be better off giving the car a VERY light wetsand, so that you can control the paint removal and knock down the high spots. When you use aggresive polishes, you actually chase the depth of the scratch down, or marring down.
I polished two sides of a terribly prepped Z06 (08, washed at the dealer with a brush) using a friends ultrasonic paint gauge.
Onthe side I wetsanded, cut, and polished, we only removed about .13 mils. On the side I didn't wetsand, we removed about .2 mils. The ultrasonic gauges measure individual layers of paint, and on the Corvette, it showed an average total of about 2.1 mils of clear (which is pretty thick, IMO).
Some cars are just very hard for the DIY to work on because of the paint, at which point a pro might be your best bet..
Not sure if this helps you or not. But every newer Vette that I've worked on, has required a rotary buffer to get the defects out. There is no way I could get any defects out by simply using a PC. Well, I shouldn't say "no way". I guess if you have the time, you could do it with a PC but it would take a week to get it perfect.
Corvette's (C5/C6) use a very hard, catalized clear coat. You will need a high speed machine as well as a fairly agressive compound to actually relevel the clear coat.
Ditto. Our experience also.
Be sure to read through the links others have included in this thread.
Mike Phillips 760-515-0444 showcargarage@gmail.com "Find something you like and use it often"
Thanks again guys for all the tips!!! I took some pictures yesterday before seeing Mike's post with the link on how to take pictures. I'll have to re-do those. I really was having a tough time getting the scratches to show up, even while pointing my finger at them.
After talking with Nick, I think I'm going to go a totally different route and buy all new Meg's stuff (#83, #80, NXT 2.0) and new pads, 7006, 8006 and 9006 along with a PC. I just feel like it's going to be a little more aggressive and able to get the finish closer to perfect than the Griot's stuff will. I think that their stuff might just not be aggressive enough, although I think their polisher works well and seems to be high quality. Almost makes me think of keeping only the polisher and just going with all Meg's products/pads, etc....
Personally, If I already had the Griot's polisher, I wouldn't get the PC.
While the PC may be more powerful, it's still pretty close to the Griot's polisher.
Although M105 is not recommended for use with the PC, it can be used by hand. I would use that on the deeper scratches before going over the section with the polisher.
After talking with Nick, I think I'm going to go a totally different route and buy all new Meg's stuff (#83, #80, NXT 2.0) and new pads, 7006, 8006 and 9006 along with a PC.
#83 followed by #80 is a good start. I have polished several Vettes and that's what I used (with Meguiar's pads). I would recommend using #7 after #80 followed by #21 Synthetic Sealant then #26 High Tech Yellow Wax. I'm not sure if it the #21 followed by #26 combo is what does so well but the shine lasts and lasts. I also use Ultimate Quick Detailer between washes and found that to be a great product.
Also, the Groit's random orbital buffer is okay. I have a friend that has one and there isn't much difference between that and the Porter-Cable
Hey guys, I went ahead and took the advice of several on here and have ordered a Meguiars G100 kit from a reputable dealer. Great service and, more importantly, great help online here.
I should get the kit on Tuesday. So far, I ordered a G100, 9006, 8006 and 7006 pads, #83, #80 and NXT 2.0. I'm keeping the microfibers and Speed Shine from Griot's which, as far as I can see are some great products.
I can't wait to get cracking with my new stuff -- I'm sure I'll have a few questions once I get everything.
Something to think about is #9. No, you probably won't get the finish perfect with a DA and #83 followed by #80. It will be MUCH better though. If you follow the #80 with #9 it will fill in some of the imperfections you are seeing after you are done with #83 and #80. People tend to freak out when they think about "filling" imperfections. But if you can't get it 100% and you still want more, then #9 is a great option.
Hey guys, a quick update on the saga on my black Vette. So far, I've gone over the hood, roof, driver's front fender and door and I've got to say....there seems to be a world of difference.
It's my impression that the #83 with the 8006 pad is going through the swirls and especially the ultra fine scratches MUCH easier and quicker.
I have a few scratches left to get out, but tonight looking closely at the hood it looks like there are might be some really fine buffing marks present. Is this what I've heard of as "micromarring"? The paint overall feels super smooth and looks very close to flawless. I'm wondering whether I should go over these areas again with #83 or whether #80 will finish polish everything and remove all of the final, finer marring.
I can't believe how much better I feel about doing the job now that I have the products that can do the work. I think if I could get a few good pointers, I can get some really good results.
I was also wondering what am I supposed to do with the 8006 pad during the day while I'm at work, not doing the polishing? Right now I have a terry cloth towel covering the pad on my G100 to keep dust/dirt off it. Will that be okay?
Also, should I be brushing off the edges of the pad to remove some of the dried polish?
Personally, If I already had the Griot's polisher, I wouldn't get the PC.
While the PC may be more powerful, it's still pretty close to the Griot's polisher.
Although M105 is not recommended for use with the PC, it can be used by hand. I would use that on the deeper scratches before going over the section with the polisher.
I have a few scratches left to get out, but tonight looking closely at the hood it looks like there are might be some really fine buffing marks present. Is this what I've heard of as "micromarring"? The paint overall feels super smooth and looks very close to flawless. I'm wondering whether I should go over these areas again with #83 or whether #80 will finish polish everything and remove all of the final, finer marring.
If they are REALLY fine I would use #80 with a #9006 pad. If that doesn't work then use #80 with a #8006 pad and a final pass with the #9006 and #80. I have used #83 and found following up with #80 yields the best results.
I was also wondering what am I supposed to do with the 8006 pad during the day while I'm at work, not doing the polishing? Right now I have a terry cloth towel covering the pad on my G100 to keep dust/dirt off it. Will that be okay?
That should be okay. The most important thing I learned is to keep the pad clean while you are buffing. Mike suggests pressing it into a terrycloth towel with the PC on to clean it. In some of his other posts he suggests cleaning it after every pass or at the least every other pass (My definition of a "pass" is when you add new product).
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