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good luck with holograming the hell out of your finish
And just what is that supposed to mean? He's using a low power orbital from AutoZone, not a high speed rotary. Unless he drops the thing on his hood he's not going to do any damage with it. Besides, he's obviously new to this whole process and isn't afraid to come on here and ask questions or seek advice. We all started somewhere, didn't we?
Michael Stoops
Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.
I have a foam bonnet, a wool bonnet, and a terry bonnet. When using the foam to apply the polish, etc., do I just spread out the polish without turning on the rotary or do I have to have it turned on and polishing every section? How do I know when to stop polishing? Same goes for the liquid wax?
And what's the wool bonnet for if the terry is for removing the product?
Sorry for all the questions I just really want to get informed before doing something I could regret later on.
I have a foam bonnet, a wool bonnet, and a terry bonnet. When using the foam to apply the polish, etc., do I just spread out the polish without turning on the rotary or do I have to have it turned on and polishing every section? How do I know when to stop polishing? Same goes for the liquid wax?
And what's the wool bonnet for if the terry is for removing the product?
Sorry for all the questions I just really want to get informed before doing something I could regret later on.
Just to clarify, you are working with an orbital buffer, not a rotary.
Use a different foam bonnet for each step if you can, or wash it in between each step.
On the foam bonnet, make a thin ring about around the pad about an inch or two in. Put the bonnet on the paint, then turn it on and work it in. If will take a little while to work a cleaner. It will look almost clear when it's ready to come off. Work the polish in for a little bit and remove it. The polish does not need to dry or be worked as long as a cleaner. Wax is the easiest. Just put enough on so the paint has a fogged look to it, let it dry, and remove with a MF towel or bonnet. They should have MF bonnets at AutoZone.
Best bet would be to stay away from the wool and terry bonnets.
Thanks for the clarification. Just wondering, why should I stay away from the terry and wool bonnets?
You can use the terri bonnet or micro fiber bonnets interchangably. It's personal preference really. I would not use the wool bonnet as those have more of a cutting action and can put swirl marks in the paint, because of the cutting action, which you will then need to remove with other products as you complete your process.
The ideal situation would be foam pad for applying your cleaner, glaze and wax with terry or MF for removing the product although I like removing product by hand with a Meguiars superior shine MF towel. They get in all the contors of the car and can remove everything pretty easily. If the product is worked in well or in the case of wax. fully dried, removing the products by hand is very easy. If a foam pad isn't available you can use the MF or terry bonnets to apply product also. Just make sure you don't cross contaminate and use one or more pads for each type of product. DONT use the same bonnet for more than one type of product without cleaning first if don't have enough.
The reason I would prefer to stay away from those is like brickyardz said, the wool ones can swirl the paint. I have found those best used on single stage paint.
The terry ones that come with the orbitals IMO are too rough to use on the paint. They are not very soft and could scratch the paint as well.
Ok I tried using a scratch remover, Meg's paint cleaner, Turtle Wax ICE paste polish, and NXT on half of the hood. I must say I am very disappointed with Turtle wax ICE since it doesn't cover up any swirls. Neither did the paint cleaner. Is it because I didn't work it in long enough? I worked the scratch remover, paint cleaner, and polish for a few minutes and the results are the same.
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