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**Murr1525** · Apr 4, 2007, 12:27 PM

Re: Just lacquered car

I think you meant debt, not death.....

**the other pc** · Apr 4, 2007, 12:57 PM

Re: Just lacquered car

Hi roybob,

to MOL!

By "lacquer it" do you really mean lacquer as in solvent borne acrylic lacquer or do you mean to spray clear over it?

How long the top coat needs to cure depends on the coating system used. The manufacturer's instructions should specify timing for recoat, sand, buff, etc.

There isn't exactly a hard and fast rule for the sand, cut and buff but typically you'd use something like #1500 to remove orange peel, #2000 to remove the #1500 sanding scratch then buff with a heavy compound like #85 or the So1o system using a rotary buffer.

The PC really isn't the right tool for removing sanding scratch but if you want to try it you'll need to go through much finer sanding steps to improve your chances of success.

PC.

**Superior Shine** · Apr 4, 2007, 07:54 PM

Re: Just lacquered car

yea clearing it with a modern clear coat and spraying with lacquer are two very different animals.

**roybob** · Apr 9, 2007, 06:50 AM

Re: Just lacquered car

Thank you all for that even the "debt", I suppose I mean just to clear coat the car

. cheers

**Mike Phillips** · Apr 9, 2007, 07:14 AM

Re: Just lacquered car

Originally posted by roybob View Post

I know we have to sand it first with 2000 etc to get it smooth and orange peel free, all this is ok but the part that gets me is what compound to use to get out the sanding marks and do I have to leave the lacquer "cure" for a period of time.

If possible, find out what the manufacture states for a wait time before sanding and buffing. IF you bought the paint from a paint store, the paint mixer, (the guy behind the counter), should be able to tell you how long you should wait before sanding and buffing.

As already stated, you need to let us know what type of paint this is, is is a solvent-evaporation paint, (old fashioned lacquer), or a chemically cured or catalyzed paint? If it's a solvent evaporation paint you'll need to let the paint dry for weeks before sanding and buffing, if it's the later type of paint than usually a day or two, possibly 3-5 days it depends on the type of paint and reducer you're using, (slow medium or fast drying)

Originally posted by roybob View Post

I have a pc that we are going to use for the compounding, buffing etc stages.

Meguiar's doesn't recommend trying to remove sanding marks by using a PC as this job is best done using a rotary buffer as you really need some power because you have to remove a lot of paint when you remove sanding marks and a PC doesn't compare to a RB when it comes to power.

About the only time you can use a PC to remove sanding marks is if your paint is really soft and easily cut, that would be a fresh lacquer paint job, so you might be able to get a way with it but it will still be hard and take a long time. A rotary buffer is really the way to go. Again, you need to find out exactly what your top coat of paint is made out of and share that with us.

We'll include a link to a thread about this down below from our Hot Topics forum.

Originally posted by roybob View Post

If anyone could shed some light on this for me I would be forever in your death as It my first time and I really dont want to mess up the paint job- seeing that it took us ages to get it to this stage or maybe a link of some type.

We'll do our best, been there done that.

Can You Use the PC to Polish-out #2000 Grit Sanding Marks?

**Mike Phillips** · Jul 7, 2008, 11:34 AM

Re: Just lacquered car

Originally posted by roybob View Post

My friend and I have just finished spraying/airbrushed my car and are about to lacquer it.

Sorry if ye are all sick of this type of question but PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE I dont like to beg but PLEASE PLEASE.

cheers

Moved to Detailing 101

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