Process for swirl removal

[kr4336]

The time is NOW! Have been waiting patiently since early April for the PC package deal but can’t any longer. The swirls (cob webs) are driving me crazy! ALL of my vehicles have micro-marring. Bought the PC locally and am pulling the trigger on supplies later today.

Buying two W-DAV99 kits and six Ultimate Bonnets to be sure to have enough pads and bonnets for separate products. But now worried about the non-gripping posts, should I be concerned? Maybe I don't need all of these bonnets, can they be washed and dried and then used with different products?

My plan: (Black F150, Yellow Mach 1, Red Shelby, and Black Harley)
1) Wash (2 bucket system followed by MF towel dry)
2) Clay (may use DC Car Wash as lube before drying here, thoughts for pro and con)
3) Re-wash (2 bucket system followed by MF towel dry)
4) #83 or #82 as needed (after testing for least aggressive/best result), W-8006 with PC speed 4.5-5. Work product until almost dry * then remove using PC, Ultimate Bonnet at what speed? Apply and remove product to one panel at a time, then move to next panel.
5) #81 with PC, W9006 with PC speed 3. Work product until almost dry * then remove using PC, Ultimate Bonnet at what speed? Apply and remove product to one panel at a time, then move to next panel.
6) NXT Tech Wax with PC, W9006 speed 3 over entire vehicle, and then remove after waiting 20-30 minutes for cure using PC, Ultimate Bonnet at what speed?
7) After 24 hours apply another coat of NXT with same process.
8) After 24 hours apply #26 over entire vehicle, should I apply by hand (will be using paste) or PC, W9006 and at what speed and then remove using PC, Ultimate Bonnet at what speed?

*I do not have the products yet so have not been able to read the application directions but will follow instructions for each product. Also most vehicles I believe to be BC/CC but unsure of the Shelby, it may be SS lacquer paint. Will this affect my plan?

Sorry for all the questions. I know some of you can answer these off the top of your head. Thanks to Rockpick, Rusty Bumper, 2hotford, Superior Shine, 2000, gb387, jfelbab, and of course Mike for their many posts. I have done so many searches and read so many posts that my head is spinning and didn’t get specific answers to these questions. Plus I know some of you will add pertinent info to my plan…

Also, rest assured pictures to follow of before and after.

[Mike Phillips]

Hi kr4336

Sorry about the package deal, sounds like you found a solution. As far as your plan of attack, I read through it and have a few suggestions, but I have a lot on my plate right now so I'll try to post back to this thread later, I just didn't want you to think it has gone unnoticed.

Do you, or can you take some good before pictures?

Especially of the finish under good/bright lights and even the sun. Also a good whole car shot from an angel is good too.

Is this the original paint you're working on? If so I believe it is a single stage acrylic enamel and if so, it will polish to a super high gloss is you use the right products with the right technique.

To check if you have a clear coat, simple rub a little polish in an inconspicuous area using a piece of white terry cloth toweling or even a cotton t-shirt. You want to see if you pull some red color. It's a good idea to test in a couple of places.

Mike

[kr4336]

Mike,

Thanks for your prompt reply. I look forward to your next, more informative post, as well as other members suggestions. I will take some "Before" pictures of all four vehicles, but will not have a good chance before this coming weekend. I can also postpone my product order for a day or two.

The Shelby does not have the original paint. Throughout the last 6 years I have "three stepped" it a couple of times with DC 1, 2, and 3 as well as using #7 and have never pulled any color. Therefore, it must be a BC/CC paint.

E

[jfelbab]

From my view, it looks like your process is right on.

I don't use car wash for the lube as I have had the clay deteriorate faster the one time I tried it. Others seem to have better success with this. I was using Quik Clay.

I personally don't like using the PC for product removal but that's just me. I remove the 81/82/83 by using a 100% cotton towel initially to cut any haze and remove the majority of the remaining product. I follow with MF to finish removal. I remove NXT with just a MF.

I've used your procedure and product choices on my MR2 and love the results.

Can't wait to see the pics.

[kr4336]

Thanks for your reply Jim.

I have always used QD as a lube with clay, but have seen where others use a fresh bucket of wash solution prior to rinsing and drying. I'm just trying to cut down on the overall time investment. However, I have seen others report what you do in that the soap breaks down the clay quicker over time.

I also am used to removing product with a towel but since I now have a PC and again I've seen posts where others use the PC and seem to report more POP in the results, I thought I would give it a try. I am unsure of the proper speed to use though and am hoping someone will provide an answer.

I'm just trying to dialog/critique with some of the more knowledgeable members regarding this procedure before I start. You know, those initial PC butterflies.

E

[jfelbab]

Originally posted by kr4336
I'm just trying to dialog/critique with some of the more knowledgeable members regarding this procedure before I start. You know, those initial PC butterflies.

E

I hear ya, and that's what this forum is for. Everyone here seems more than willing ot offer advice based on their experience/knowledge. It's a great place.

I've been using a PC since March of 1995. Can't seem to wear the thing out. You are going to love your purchase as the years go by.

[1badstang]

using the PC is so much more fun then doing things by hand

[fiberrich]

I know the feeling of the PC butterflies. All I could think of was this thing spinning/oscillating and putting even more swirl marks in my paint, not taking them out.

What I found out is that this was not the case at all! The PC is very forgiving. I was so nervous about using it on my new car that I just used DC #1 as a cleaner (chemical only, no abrasives) vs. #9 or #82. However, I used #82 on my older cars and they have almost a smoother and slicker finish than my new car does. I assume this is due to the polishing done to the finish from the diminishing abrasives.

[kr4336]

So here are some pics of the swirls I'm trying to get rid of;








I have placed other pictures in my gallery that you may also look at, they were all taken the same day. They include reflection and overall shots, so please look at them also. The entire vehicle(s) is covered with these swirls although not evident in all pictures. These photos were all I was able to get before the weather turned, I will try to get more of the other vehicles another day.

E

[kr4336]

Ripped from comments in kr4336 gallery:

101impala
Member

Registered: 5/2004
Location: Philadelphia, Pa
Posts: 37 Sun Jul 18, 2004 10:35am

Awesome reflection.....What was the process?




THANKS!!! 101impala

Actually I have used DC Steps 1, 2, and 3 as well as #7 (used at different times), and topped with Gold Class Liquid Car Wax since buying the truck in February. Always done by hand. Now have a PC and looking forward to using it.

However, I am still waiting for input from others as to what to do about the swirls...

What products would be best???

[Tim Lingor]

Hey kr4336


Your plan looks pretty good!!

To remove swirls, you may have to do a multi-step process. First try the #82 with a W-8006 pad. Work the product with the PC set to speed 4-5. Remove while still damp. You can either use a MF towel or the PC with a MF bonnet at this step (speed 4). Check for swirls. If they are still there, then you may need to go more aggressive.

More aggressive: With a clean W-8006 Pad, PC (speed 5) apply #83 DACP. Work it in thoroughly until only a slight dust/residue remains. Wipe off the residue and check for swirls. Repeat application if necessary. Some swirls may be too deep and will require someone experienced in using a rotary buffer.

Now, step back down with #82. Apply #81 Hand Polish and top with NXT x2.

For the removal of the NXT, I would strongly suggest using a PC, with a MF bonnet. Set the PC to speed 4 for removal.

I hope this helps!!

Tim

[1badstang]

great tips 2hotford, not to hijack but I finally did my whole hood with #83, it came out pretty damn good.. but it looks like I have just some very very slight maring left.. maybe caused by #83? I tried a different wax/sealant today and wasn't happy with it at all, back to NXT for me

[the newbie]

speed settings.....

maybe a little idea,i had some problems working the #83,in the beginning,because of a wrong rpm setting.
maybe we could switch to rpm,instead of speed 3 or 4,because not everybody has the same machine?
this should be easier to everybody.
i also have problems sometimes to understand what kind of machine someone has,because there are so many words in english for rotary and dual action polishers.

Rick

[fiberrich]

Originally posted by 1badstang
great tips 2hotford, not to hijack but I finally did my whole hood with #83, it came out pretty damn good.. but it looks like I have just some very very slight maring left.. maybe caused by #83? I tried a different wax/sealant today and wasn't happy with it at all, back to NXT for me

If you think #83 hazed the surface, it's not the product, but the application. You probably didn't work the product long enough to allow the diminishing abrasives to break down.

Most people will tell you to use #82 after #83. #82 is a finer polish and will remove any marring/hazing left on the finish from #83.

The first time I used #83 the finished was a bit hazed. Applying #82 cleaned it right up.

I've read that once you get good at applying #83, you most likely won't get marring/hazing and those that do get good at applying #83 will go right to the glaze and wax steps and skip the #82.

[LiveWire]

Whats the difference between using #9 and #82? Looking at the label on the bottle, they have the same level of aggresiveness.