#66 or #6

[mh68]

I'm wanting to get a cleaner wax from the professional line and was wondering which one is better. What I'm looking for is cleaning ability, gloss, durability and ease of removal. I will be using it on customers cars that don't opt for the 5 step process in which is use NXT or #21 as the LSP, that just want the basic wash/wax. I will also be using the PC for application. Thanks.

Mike

[frustrateddetailer]

Re: #66 or #6

i read in some articles that #66 is a verstile product, it can be mild when it is hand applied but it can be also aggresive because it can be used with rotary buffer & PC. compared to #6, it is more versatile and aggresive. but to be sure, lets wait for mr mike phillips mike?

[mh68]

Re: #66 or #6

Any suggestions Mike?

[the other pc]

Re: #66 or #6

If you’re looking for a single-step to use on customers' cars I’d say go with #66.

It’s more aggressive than #6 so you can use it over a wider range of finish condition. If you don’t need the extra aggressiveness just use a less aggressive application technique.

If you accidentally slop it on too thick #6 can be stubborn to remove. #66 is easier. (Both are easy if you apply them correctly.)

#66 costs less than #6.

#6 is still a good product though and I still use it.



PC.

[BlueZero]

Re: #66 or #6

According to the "cut gage" on the bottle, #66 has the same "cut" as #80. However, #6 cleans with chemicals. I haven't used either one yet. I've been thinking of getting one for door jams, etc. Where I want a one step clean and wax.


Edit: Well, based on the other pc's advice, I think I will be trying the #66.

[mh68]

Re: #66 or #6

So will #66 leave any hazing that I will have to take out with another step? Especially if I use it with a pc? Or is a professional version of say DC cleaner/wax?

Mike

[the other pc]

Re: #66 or #6

#66 is closer to ColorX. They look and smell similar anyway.

#66 won’t leave hazing. In fact, it’s great for removing hazing left by other products when you have a particularly tweaky, sensitive finish.

It can be used as half of a great two-step combo. You can start with a more aggressive product and the rotary then finish off with #66/G100 to remove leftover holograms while leaving the finish protected.


PC.

[mh68]

Re: #66 or #6

Sorry for so many questions, but I don't know anything about #66 or #6, I only use NXT and #21 on mine, but I prep mine first. how's the finish afterwards? Is it fairly glossy? I know it won't be as good as NXT or #21 but I want to be happy with the looks and durability. As we know, NXT and #21 can be a little harder to get a uniform finish with on an unprepped surface that's why I'm looking into a cleaner wax.

Mike

[the other pc]

Re: #66 or #6

Gloss and finish quality are 99% prep. If you were to start with a superb finish the differences between topping with NXT, #21, #66 or #6 would be very small.

Since the whole idea of a one-step is to include the prep the real world differences you’ll see will mostly come down to how well you utilizes its inherent prep capability verses how well you would do separate steps in a multi-step process.

In practical application you may be able to bring a near perfect finish to perfection but for most jobs it’s more likely to be about making major improvements in a neglected finish or touching up a good finish. If you’re using a one-step to give a customer the best value for less money you’re not expecting perfection, nor are they paying for it. If you’re using it as part of a larger process then your job is to balance the different elements to achieve the best outcome.

Apples to apples, the difference in final appearance between the one-steps and the top line LSPs may be small but something has to give. One-steps usually won’t last as long as the best stand alone LSPs. It’s a trade off. But since the results can be excellent and the cost moderate it’s a win-win proposition.


PC.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #66 or #6

Any suggestions Mike?

Paul and others have pretty much answered all of your questions, because M66 contains a diminishing abrasive for the cleaning aspect it also works well for removing hazing by more aggressive products like M83 and even M80 on some paint types.

Best of all is you can purchase this product by the gallon and pour off to a squeeze bottle. M66 is the way to go for one-step production work, just be sure to tape off any trim or be very careful not to run the pad into or over the trim as it will stain trim white.

[mh68]

Re: #66 or #6

Thanks guys for all the help, I really appreciate it. I have a couple more quick questions. Should I use a 9006 or 8006 to apply #66 and since it has diminishing abrasives do I work the areas back and forth on PC setting 5 like I do with M83 and M80?

Mike

[the other pc]

Re: #66 or #6

That’s part of the flexibility. Use it like #80, say PC/8006/speed 5/high pressure/slow arm speed that and you get one level of cut. If you want to back it down go to the 9006 or ease off the pressure or speed up your arm or take fewer passes. If you want to increase the cut go to the rotary, maybe a cutting pad, etc.

Play with it. Do some test spots. See what it will do.


PC.

[mh68]

Re: #66 or #6

That's what I was thinking but wanted to be sure. Sounds like #66 is getting added to my arsenal! I detail on the side so I only do about 5 cars a month. I'll be using 66 on the cars that people bring to me once a year and don't opt for the 5 step process. I have a couple of people that are on a maintainence schedule and I'm the only one that touches their cars and since I've done the five step on theirs, the surfaces are usually good enough for NXT or #21. Now this gives me a better option for others that just want a basic wash/wax whose finishes aren't prepped for NXT. Thanks again for all the help!

Mike