Spit-Shining?

[Nacho_Z71]

Can someone give me the quick lowdown on spitshining? What is it's purpose? Does it work?

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Spit-Shining?

Read about it for years, know it has some value when working on leather shoes?

As for automotive paints, it's really pretty hard to understand how rubbing saliva or spit against the paint will make look better as compared to a product specifically formulated to be applied and wiped off of paint in an effort to make it look better.


Here's a challenge...
Would live to see an advocate of this procedure post some thorough, step-by-step how to instructions detailing just exactly how to do this. The instructions by the advocate of this process needs to be written up in way that anyone can follow it and also list all the products and tools a person will need to get consistent, professional results each time.

Now lets see if anyone accepts the challenge.


Note: If an advocate of this procedure does post a detailed, step-by-step outline as to how to spit shine paint, please understand it is going to be evaluated on black paint and the results shared in this thread.

One thing for sure, if spit shining paint works, that is if using your saliva or spit to rub against the paint does in fact make the paint look better than a normal application of a paint care product... then our chemists will be out of work

[yakky]

Re: Spit-Shining?

The spit is really purfied, filtered or distilled water. The idea is the water reduces the ability of the solvents to soften the layer of wax already on the car.

0. Get a good quality paste wax, #16 works great for spit shining and a foam applicator and a water bottle with a good mister.
1. You mist the applicator heavily and the surface of the car lightly
2. Get a good bit of wax on the applicator and apply to the surface of the car.
3. Let dry and repeat

This is supposed to let you get more wax on the paint than normally possible as the water reduces the effectiveness of the solvent on the paint.

Does it work? For me I can see a bit of difference. In my tests with #16 I was able to see results the first layer (after having applied two layers regular style) and maybe the 2 and 3. Past the third was nothing at all.

Like anything else, give it a try and see for yourself.

[Bence]

Re: Spit-Shining?

My view on the correct methodology of spit shining:

Spit shining is for building heavy coats, deepening the look, by preventing the solvents (to a certain extent) to re-liquify and remove the previous wax layers.
If you remove a hazed wax with QD, nothing special happens. You’ll just see a shiny, waxed/QDd surface - but it's not spit shining.
Usually, a wax with higher solvent content can/will remove the previous layer. Heavy carnaubas don’t have that high (or less aggressive) solvent contents, so they can build pretty thick layers with this method. You need distilled water (eventually QD; as they are up to 98% water - but preferably carnauba QD, without alcohol) to *neutralize* the solvents in the newly applied layer; and the spritz has to be cold, to let the new wax to almost freeze onto the finish. Then you working it until the water/QD/wax disappears. First, you have a prepped-waxed surface. When you want to put on the second/third/etc. layer, you spritz a fine, light mist on the panel. Begin to wipe the wax on. While waxing, mist water/QD a few times. Work until your wax is disappeared. Go over with an ultrafine MF. Wait a bit (half an hour or an hour) then you can apply the next layer.
It is wise to follow the 'divided panels' method. If dust appears, the application was too thick. You can always remove haze with QD; there is nothing unusual in it. But better to have no dust/haze.
Theoretically, each carnauba paste will work good, but it can depend on the solvents, oils, other active ingredients, application method (chilled water or QD). Remember, just removing the haze of a wax with QD is NOT spit shining yet! Only a holistic approach makes it perfect. So, mist, wax, mist, continue waxing, mist, wax disappeared, buff lightly with MF. And again... and again... It can be done with a finessing/finishing pad on a DA (speed 1-3).
The golden rule with heavy pure carnaubas is that you never allow them to dry fully. For example, dried Victoria Waxes are horrendous to remove...
Some feel that a thick, heavy initial application of wax gives a softer, richer touch. It is a good base to start with. However, ALWAYS apply extremely thin layers when spit shining!
The reason to use a damp applicator/towel/cotton balls etc., is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to stop the fine coats of wax sticking to the applicator, thereby encouraging the wax to build thin, fine layers.
Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and it has different beading characteristics; with even smaller beads, which have bigger contact angles. The durability is about the same (or slightly better), but the improved, beautiful, mile-deep appearance is worth it.

So, once again: When you spit shine, you spritz water onto the surface BEFORE waxing, and WHILE you wax. The coats must be so thin and the application must be so thorough that you shouldn’t have haze/residue. If haze appears, the application was either too thick or too short. With the water you switch the solvents off and this allows the wax to build very heavy layers. That's why you should avoid QDs with alcohol, because it compromises the wax buildup. Beading characteristics is different, jetting is better, and the beads have bigger contact angles. Just do 3-5 layers*, and you'll see what spit shining is about...


*Some waxes stop at 3 coats, some improve even at more than 5 IME.

[sneek]

Re: Spit-Shining?

One thing for sure, if spit shining paint works, that is if using your saliva or spit to rub against the paint does in fact make the paint look better than a normal application of a paint care product... then our chemists will be out of work

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6f5EAvCS7Y[/youtube]

[Nacho_Z71]

Re: Spit-Shining?

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6f5EAvCS7Y[/youtube]

Haha is that a real Elmo doll that you can buy? My kids would love that...

Anyway, I am very curious about this spit shining method now. Maybe someone can take Mike's challenge and take some pics so that we can all be fully convinced?

[sneek]

Re: Spit-Shining?

Yes that is the new tickle me elmo. It is actaully pretty hard to find one.
....i laughed at it too


anyways, why doesn't somebody try doing it on half a hood and the other half with just 2 regular coats. then get a random person to see if they can tell the difference.

[CieraSL]

Re: Spit-Shining?

Interesting thread. Anybody wanna try this method and post their results?

[mindf]

Re: Spit-Shining?

Anyone want to do a 50/50

[G Force]

Re: Spit-Shining?

Sure,Freddy Krueger ate my hamster and took the bus number 48 via the moon.

[TOGWT]

Re: Spit-Shining?

'Spit Shining’ (Bull polishing)

Not as lurid as it sounds, I learned how to spit shine boots in the Royal Air Force (RAF), but for those of you who’ve never done it I’ll briefly describe how to spit shine boots to a mirror finish. You’ll need a can of Kiwi shoe wax, a bag of cotton balls, and some cold water. Wet the cotton ball and squeeze out most of the water. Get a very small amount of wax on the cotton ball and wipe it onto the boot - continue wiping until there is no more smudging. Add a little more wax and repeat. Re-moisten the cotton ball as needed so that it leaves tiny beads of water on the boots. When the cotton ball retains too much wax, then use a new cotton ball, it takes several layers (maybe 6 to 10 or more) to achieve that mirror shine. It’s obvious that the wax builds layers because enough flexing of the leather will cause the wax to flake.

Spit shining is used for ‘layering’ Carnauba wax (although in this case the 'spit' used is distilled water) to produce a ‘depth of shine’ providing you take the necessary precautions to prevent the solvents both re-liquefying and removing the previous wax layers. Usually a spit shined surface is slicker, smoother, and has different beading characteristics; with even smaller tighter water beads. The durability is about the same (or slightly better) and although spit shining is very time consuming, the improved depth of shine and glossy appearance is worth it

Usually, a wax with a high solvent content will remove the previous layer, so use a Carnauba that is not formulated with a high solvent content (Pinnacle Souverän) Using a damp applicator and cold (almost ice) distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle neutralizes any solvents in the newly applied layer; the water should be cold, using ice cold water after applying a wax will harden the wax quicker making the shine deeper and help the new wax adhere to the finish, working until the water/ wax solution disappears.

The reason for using a damp applicator is to neutralize the solvents as much as possible, and to avoid the thin coats of wax sticking to the applicator, this enables the wax to build thin, fine coats. Spray fine mists of cold (almost ice) distilled water to a single panel and then apply a light Carnauba wax to the paint surface.

Always apply extremely thin layers using a very light pressure when spit shining, Wipe it onto a small work area and continue wiping until most of the wax disappears. Mist lightly as needed, keeping a few water droplets on the surface. Move to the next work area and repeat. After you do the final area you’ll have a surface with many spots of hazed wax. Lightly mist an area with the very cold distilled water - 1/2 hood or door - and lightly buff with a MF towel. Turn the towel frequently, when the towel becomes too damp switch to a new towel.

When you spray very cold water on a Carnauba wax layer that has been allowed to outgas (i.e. the solvents that make up its carrier system have evaporated) it reduces the wax surface temperature to the point that the next applied waxes carrier solvents do not dilute the previously applied wax and it forms a semi-hard coat.

Allow each subsequent Carnauba waxes solvents to outgas before applying more layers. Spit shining allows definitive layers, as opposed to a thick coat of wax that would result if the solvents dissolve the wax layer that they are applied to.

After 24 hours you can repeat the procedure, using cold (almost ice) distilled water and Pinnacle Crystal Mist (a low solvent quick detail (QD) each coat applied will increase the surface depth of shine with five or six coats being optimal

Information resource- based on information in a post by NickT on Autopia.org and the original method used to shine RAF uniform dress shoes

[TOGWT]

Re: Spit-Shining?

This got missed on my C/P (See also Wax layers (Detailing World forum post) – http://bit.ly/6PWOKy