Buffing pad lubrication?

[rponfick]

I just finished using Unigrit 2000 to color sand my new clearcoat (PPG 2021). I tired the maroon pad with #83, but I need to go to something stronger. Plan to try #84.

My problem is the pad seems hard and stiff and jumps around. Should the pads be soaked in water or something before use to make them more pliable? I tried searching, but couldn't find anything.

Thanks, Ralph.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Buffing pad lubrication?

Hi Ralph,

You can spray on some M34 Final Inspection, (a Body Shop Safe/Fresh Paint Safe Quick Detailer available at any PBE Store, and then kind of work the M34 into the foam with your hands, this will moisten the stiff, dense cutting pad.

Also, if you apply a little product and buff with it for a few seconds and the apply a little more product and buff with it, the result will be the pad will start to saturate and become wet.

M84 is quite a bit more aggressive than the M83 which is only a cleaner/polish while M84 is an aggressive compound. The #2000 sanding marks should buff right out. Remember when using a foam cutting pad instead of a wool cutting pad to hold the pat flat to the finish whenever you can and move the buffer slowly over the paint, not quickly. You need to give the combination of compound, pad and rotating action under time and pressure to do the work of removing small particles of paint.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Buffing pad lubrication?

Read this, it has a recipe for pads and products for what you're about to do...


Switching from 3M to Meguiar's - Rotary Buffer Questions?


Also, we just introduced a simpler system just for what you're about to do...


Solo System

[noswirler]

Re: Buffing pad lubrication?

WHAT i DO IS SATURATE THE PADS BY BUFFING SLOW UNTILL PAD BECOMES WHAT i CALL "READY TO WORK" LIKE MIKE SAID KEEP ADDING PRODUCT A LITTLE AT A TIME (THATS WHY I DONT WASH MY PADS IT COST $ TO GET THEM READY TO USE)
ALSO IF YOU GO OVER YOUR 2000 WITH 3000,YOU CAN USE 83 OR MAYBE EVEN 80 AND NO #700 PADS

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Buffing pad lubrication?

WHAT i DO IS SATURATE THE PADS BY BUFFING SLOW UNTILL PAD BECOMES WHAT i CALL "READY TO WORK" LIKE MIKE SAID KEEP ADDING PRODUCT A LITTLE AT A TIME (THATS WHY I DONT WASH MY PADS IT COST $ TO GET THEM READY TO USE)

That's system that works well. The idea being not to take a brand new, or a clean dry used pad and start a heavy cutting process with an aggessive pad using a rotary buffer. Either method will work, moisten the pad by misting on some Final Inspection, or breaking the pad in slowly when you start by buffing just a little with your product of choice and then stopping to add a little more product until your pad is "Ready to work", and then go to town.

Just remember to clean you pad often. Most people don't clean their pads often enough and this will cause performacne inssues withe your product and your pad will clog or cake up and become more difficult to buff with while also being less effective.

ALSO IF YOU GO OVER YOUR 2000 WITH 3000,YOU CAN USE 83 OR MAYBE EVEN 80 AND W-7006 PADS

If the paint is soft enough or polishable enough you can probably get away with this.

[noswirler]

Re: Buffing pad lubrication?

yes mike a clean pad is the key I always clean pad after each panel, but i dont WASH my pads at all

[rponfick]

Re: Buffing pad lubrication?

And how do you clean a pad?

Ralph.

[noswirler]

Re: Buffing pad lubrication?

And how do you clean a pad?

Ralph.

normally I use a detail brush over the surface while im using it,clean after each panel. when im done i brush it real good get off all the patches that form out of wax and crud, wipe it off real good with a towel,store it with the face down let gravity pull out some more dust and stuff