Is this a good plan of attack for black single stage?

[Slick71ss]

Hi, new to the forum. I've been searching/reading for 2 days and think I'm ready to attempt detailing my 71 Chevelle using a PC. It has a single stage black paint job, but not positive what type it is. I would guess some kind of acrylic enamel. Anyways, want to make sure I have the right polishing steps and products. Please advise if you would do different.


After wash, clay, etc....

#80 speed glaze & w-8006 pad
if #80 doesn't take care of swirls/scratches... #83 & w-8006 pad, followed by #80
NXT & w-9006 pad (let cure for one day)
#26 & w-9006 pad

I already have NXT and #26 which is why I have those 2 waxes listed. Will those 2 waxes give a nice finish or should I use a pure polish or glaze in there somewhere?

Appreciate any advice or info!

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Is this a good plan of attack for black single stage?

I think your plan of attack looks very good, and it's nice to see you planning to go with #80 before trying #83 - use the least aggressive approach first and only step up to something more aggressive if need be. Topping NXT with 26 should give you a beautiful finish on that black SS paint. But. You mention possibly using a pure polish and I think that black SS just screams for #7! If you have the time you may want to try a side by side comparison of NXT topped with 26 and 7 topped with NXT.

Without seeing the condition of the paint it's hard to say for sure, but it's always fun to experiment!

[Slick71ss]

Re: Is this a good plan of attack for black single stage?

Thanks for the reply.

Is #7 show car glaze a hand apply only product, or can it be used with the PC as well?

So you think #7 topped with NXT is better than #26?

Sorry, I don't have any close-ups of my paint and the marring. It has a considerable amount of light scratching from dusting, etc.

If the weather were nicer I would try to get some close-up pics, but here's some general pics of the car...

[TH0001]

Re: Is this a good plan of attack for black single stage?

I'm going to give you the big picture of detailing...

So many times we get focused on the process, that we miss the goal, if that makes sense?

What I am saying is their is no set process for anything other then wash, clay, polish, protect. How you go about this is completely up to you. And also remember that part of the beauty of detailing is that it truely is in the eye of the beholder!!!

Okay let me expalin my pyscobabble..

Lets say you polish with #80 and you remove the defects and the paint looks great. Then you want to try to apply a pure polish over the top of the surface, like #7. Maybe #7 makes it look better, maybe it doesn't, but what matters is what you think. Be emotinal and not logical about it. If you feel #7 makes a difference, then go for it. Logically, it would only make small difference based on the similar oils that #80 and #7 have. But if it works for you, then good.

Lets say #80 doesn't cut it. Then you are correct, logically you either want to try #80 for a second pass or step up to #83. If #83 cleans up the marring and leaves a nice finish, then do half that section with #80. See if that improves the finish. The reason I say this is because what if you are happier with the finish that #83 leaves behind and #80 doesn't improve it. There is no set rule that says you have to finish #83 with #80, there are too many factors involved. I will say on harder clearcoats (Corvette, Audi, Viper), I (personally, as thats all that matters) find that #83 leaves as good a finish as #80. So why make more work. Continue to experiment until you find the results that make you the happiest?

So #83 works, and you tested the follow up with #80 and thought that the #83 looked as good. Then there is no sense in following with #80. So then try your purepolish of choice. Lets say #7 makes a big difference in your eyes, then go from #83 to #7. If it doesn't make a difference, then you would just go #83 to your LSP of choice.

Now regarding LSP's, you are correct logically you want to apply a sealent under a carnuba, so the correct order would by NXT followed by #26. But again your asking for our opinions which are going to be different then yours. I find that most of the time I'll stick with just #26, because I get longer durability out of it as opposed to NXT. But use the same methods above I described...

After you find the the polishing methods you like the best, split the seciton off and do one area with #26, one area with NXT. Chose which one you like better. If you like the #26 better, your done, as the only thing you can really top #26 with is #16. Lets say the candy shine of NXT is more to your liking, then top half that section with #26 and compare both sides. Choose the side you like better.

Does this all make sense?

Your asking for a process (which is what I did when I first started) that will work on "said" vehicle. Its hard to anwser these questions because there is no correct answer. All we can do is arm you with the knowledge of when the products should be used and how to use them, and let you discover the rest. The journey is the best part, IMO.

So you have a good feel of what products do what, and where they fit in the line up, so go at it, find what looks the best to you (which my not look the best to me, since thier is no "best") and have fun. Enjoy that gorgeous Chevelle and make it your own.

Hope I helped,

Todd

[TH0001]

Re: Is this a good plan of attack for black single stage?

So here are some examples of different processes that might work with what products you have...

#83
#80
#7
NXT
#26

#80x2
#26x2

#83
#7
NXTx2
#26

#83
#26x3

#83x2
#80x1
#7x2
NXTx2
#26x3

#80
#26x2


You see, and each of these processes (and there are literally a hundred more I could come up with) will produce different results (though the differences would be EXTREMELY small). Find YOUR process that is the BEST for what YOU want.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Is this a good plan of attack for black single stage?

Nice write up Todd!!

Slick71ss, your paint is better shape than I assumed (beautiful car, by the way!!!) and I think you'd be hard pressed to see a huge difference between 7/NXT and NXT/26 after going over it with 80. 7 does an amazing job on single stage paint that really needs some help, but your paint looks pretty darn nice. Still, experiment as I've mentioned before and Todd expanded on, but you may find 7 just gives you that something extra that you want to keep just for shows.

There have been several posts about the best way to apply 7 and several people have mentioned it being difficult to use. If you use it wrong it can be, but if done right it's a piece of cake. While it can be machine applied my experience has been to apply it by hand using one of the Meguiar's foam applicator pads, gently working it into a 2'x2' area until you feel the pad start to drag on the surface. At this point take a clean microfiber towel and begin to gently wipe it off. Don't try to remove it all on the first pass with the MF, rather go over the area gently a few times to remove it, then repeat the process on the next 2'x2' area.

Like Todd suggests, there is no one perfect combination of products that will make everybody happy. It's your car, your taste and desires. Experiment a little and see what you like best, then stick with it.

[TH0001]

Re: Is this a good plan of attack for black single stage?

Thanks Mike, and I agree about #7 by hand...

The heavy oil content makes it "gummy" when applied by PC. Work a small area at a time then wipe clean. Then work the next section, wipe that section clean, then rewipe the first section as you will notice that the first section may have some skimming of the oils.

[Slick71ss]

Re: Is this a good plan of attack for black single stage?

Thanks for all the opinions. I'll experiment as suggested.

I've never used a PC before and it scares me a little, thus the questions or insecurity. My main concern is getting the scratches and marring out without causing additional damage. So, if I get through the polishing step with #80 and/or 83 with good results, I'll be 100% happy. The LSP would just be icing on the cake, and I think I'll be happy with just using NXT and/or 26.

Thanks again, and great forum!

[TH0001]

Re: Is this a good plan of attack for black single stage?

Don't stress about the PC. Its kind of full proof because it doesn't generate a lot of heat and the action is gentle so you are removing very little paint.

Here are some hints that helped me...

Work a SMALL section at first, roughly 18"x18"

Apply your product directly to the pad. The first time use a cross pattern to prime the pad, and after apply a single line across the pad using a thin bead.

Apply a little pressure to the head of the machine, to where the spinning of the machine slows down, but doesn't stall.

Work SLOWLY, only moving the machien about 2 inchs a second. Start in the corner of your section

Here is Mike Phillips article...

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2965&highlight=remove+defects+pc

[quikzilver]

Re: Is this a good plan of attack for black single stage?

Well, if it scares you, probably be best to start on a fender or hood from the scrapheap (Dutch: sloop ) and have a go at that. You might get a better feel of what the machine is doing, instead of starting right at that already magnificent looking car. Although everone is saying, the PC is foolproof, it's better safe than sorry .

[Slick71ss]

Re: Is this a good plan of attack for black single stage?

I have a "work" car that probably hasn't been detailed since it was new in 1997. I'll practice on that first.