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Okay guys...new member here and after 5 days of reading the forums (work? what's that?), I'm ready to have all review the process I will use to restore my car's finish.
Toyota Camry 1992 XLE, silver metallic with cc.
I LOVE MY CAR!
Car has small haze/birdypoop spots, horrible swirls and scratches, some paint rubbed off in some places and a few small rust spots (about 3-5 mm). The paint was in pretty durned good shape when I bought it last October, but just 1 year of daily drivin' 90 degree plus days/high humidity but no rain along with no maintenance have done their damage.
Two notes: I am 5'1 and weigh 105 pounds, so that influences my decisons. I don't have a g-100 (yet) so everything is influenced by the fact that I will be doing the car by hand.
Okay, here is my process:
1) Wash car using two-bucket method with grit guard.
Use NXT wash using Wide-angle brush, tire brush.
Dry with microfiber Super Suede Drying Towel to get the majority of the water off.
Dry again with Water Magnet Drying Towel.
2) Cut clay bar up and then clay car with smooth surface clay kit (use the detailer to spray both surface to clay and the clay itself, then clay, then wipe off small sections at a time with Ultimate Shine MF)
3) Apply Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner first with Even-Coat applicator and see if it removes most defects. (test small area first) Remove with MF
4) If defects still exist apply Scratch-X with High-Tech applicator pads to areas where there are remaining defects (test small area first):
* First spread the ScratchX evenly over the area you're going to work, about a 6x6 area
* Work the microscopic diminishing abrasives against the finish applying a little passion behind the applicator pad and after after working the product against the finish until the product has broken down, turned somewhat clear and begun to dissipate, about 2-3 minutes. Wipe immediately with SS MF or Ultimate wipe and check to see if the defect is gone.
* Repeat this process if necessary.
6) Apply #81 polish, working it in thoroughly but gently and remove after each area with SS MF.
7) Apply one thin, uniform coat of NXT Paste Wax. Go inside, have lunch and a movie, let dry, remove with ss mf. Repeat. (here in humid Memphis it will take forever!)
8) Triple detail brush for after waxing to remove dried wax from crevices.
Continue with the rest of the car, wheels, chrome, etcetc.
9) Thereafter maintain finish with gc quick detail pad and gc quick detail spray, possibly repeat the process every two months.
Questions:
1. Is it wise to use the bug/tar remover before or after washing, or will the clay get all of that?
2. What is the difference between the Mild and Aggressive clays in the professional line? Should I consider an aggressive clay?
3. Another member said it was okay to check the finish as you polish by wiping down the surface with something like 50/50 rubbing alcohol -- thoughts?
4. Is it truly necessary with a car of this...uhh...caliber to tape off? Perhaps I could just use some type of lubricant to avoid the wax getting on wrong parts of the car?
5. I need to know what to do about the rust spots on the car. I heard about a technique called feather buffing that uses small pieces of the appropriate sandpaper to buff out distinct problem areas. Is it possible for me to use a technique like that with a controlled speed drill and remove only the rust and at most .3mil of clear coat? I know to leave it to the professionals, but I am wondering what I can do about the rust NOW.
6. I bought a supposed OEM paint pen to do some quick paint touchups. It is 176 as on my car door and is for both Lexus and Toyota in Silver Metallic 2. Whatever the case, I'll be testing it soon but my question is WHEN should I apply this paint? After I use the paint cleaner? How long do I need to wait after using touch up paint to continue on to the glaze/polish and waxing?
I can imagine that this process will take between 15 and 20 hours, probably longer for a newbie (I gotta good arm, tho
) so I might do steps 1-6 in one day and wax the next.
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
Toyota Camry 1992 XLE, silver metallic with cc.
I LOVE MY CAR!
Car has small haze/birdypoop spots, horrible swirls and scratches, some paint rubbed off in some places and a few small rust spots (about 3-5 mm). The paint was in pretty durned good shape when I bought it last October, but just 1 year of daily drivin' 90 degree plus days/high humidity but no rain along with no maintenance have done their damage.
Two notes: I am 5'1 and weigh 105 pounds, so that influences my decisons. I don't have a g-100 (yet) so everything is influenced by the fact that I will be doing the car by hand.
Okay, here is my process:
1) Wash car using two-bucket method with grit guard.
Use NXT wash using Wide-angle brush, tire brush.
Dry with microfiber Super Suede Drying Towel to get the majority of the water off.
Dry again with Water Magnet Drying Towel.
2) Cut clay bar up and then clay car with smooth surface clay kit (use the detailer to spray both surface to clay and the clay itself, then clay, then wipe off small sections at a time with Ultimate Shine MF)
3) Apply Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner first with Even-Coat applicator and see if it removes most defects. (test small area first) Remove with MF
4) If defects still exist apply Scratch-X with High-Tech applicator pads to areas where there are remaining defects (test small area first):
* First spread the ScratchX evenly over the area you're going to work, about a 6x6 area
* Work the microscopic diminishing abrasives against the finish applying a little passion behind the applicator pad and after after working the product against the finish until the product has broken down, turned somewhat clear and begun to dissipate, about 2-3 minutes. Wipe immediately with SS MF or Ultimate wipe and check to see if the defect is gone.
* Repeat this process if necessary.
6) Apply #81 polish, working it in thoroughly but gently and remove after each area with SS MF.
7) Apply one thin, uniform coat of NXT Paste Wax. Go inside, have lunch and a movie, let dry, remove with ss mf. Repeat. (here in humid Memphis it will take forever!)
8) Triple detail brush for after waxing to remove dried wax from crevices.
Continue with the rest of the car, wheels, chrome, etcetc.
9) Thereafter maintain finish with gc quick detail pad and gc quick detail spray, possibly repeat the process every two months.
Questions:
1. Is it wise to use the bug/tar remover before or after washing, or will the clay get all of that?
2. What is the difference between the Mild and Aggressive clays in the professional line? Should I consider an aggressive clay?
3. Another member said it was okay to check the finish as you polish by wiping down the surface with something like 50/50 rubbing alcohol -- thoughts?
4. Is it truly necessary with a car of this...uhh...caliber to tape off? Perhaps I could just use some type of lubricant to avoid the wax getting on wrong parts of the car?
5. I need to know what to do about the rust spots on the car. I heard about a technique called feather buffing that uses small pieces of the appropriate sandpaper to buff out distinct problem areas. Is it possible for me to use a technique like that with a controlled speed drill and remove only the rust and at most .3mil of clear coat? I know to leave it to the professionals, but I am wondering what I can do about the rust NOW.
6. I bought a supposed OEM paint pen to do some quick paint touchups. It is 176 as on my car door and is for both Lexus and Toyota in Silver Metallic 2. Whatever the case, I'll be testing it soon but my question is WHEN should I apply this paint? After I use the paint cleaner? How long do I need to wait after using touch up paint to continue on to the glaze/polish and waxing?
I can imagine that this process will take between 15 and 20 hours, probably longer for a newbie (I gotta good arm, tho
) so I might do steps 1-6 in one day and wax the next. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
I will try to answer as best I can.
but from normal viewing distance many disappear.
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