Step above Scratch-X?

[CathyG]

What is the next least abrasive product after scratch-X? I`m working on getting my 20 year old 4Runner back to at least close to it`s original dark color and the Scratch-X just isn`t cutting it in some areas. It`s got some pretty bad oxidation due to being in the AZ sun for the last 15 years and has been without wax for at least the last 10. It`s my first car and I`d like to keep it rust free and protected. It being shiny would be a nice bonus but isn`t neccesary.

[Murr1525]

Well, the first thing to be sure of is that you are applying ScratchX correctly. It is not a wipe on/wipe off product, and needs worked in much more than DC#1 and ColorX.

You really need to get behind it with some passion and work it in.

Now, if that is what you have been doing, and after 2-3 coats, still nothing is working, then you are going ot be out of luck by hand.

Moving onto the G-100 would be the next step, but that is a much bigger investment.

Though I am suprised that ScratchX wouldnt make a dent in a bit of oxidation. Make sure you are applying it properly.

[CathyG]

I worked the Scratch-X in a little more and it took off most of it. In some areas what I initially thought was just oxidation is actually huge webs of scratches and swirl marks. I`m pet sitting so I`ll post a pic in about a week when I get home. Looks like I`m out of luck as far as hand applied solutions though. I went ahead and waxed it and it`s looking a lot darker. More shiny too and dust is coming off of it with almost no effort. Is DC#1 the deep crystal paint cleaner? I was going to try that but if Scratch-X won`t do anything I`m assuming it won`t be able to either.

On a better note the removable top on my 4Runner is looking fantastic. It had a very faded look when I started but now it`s actually darker than the rest.

[Murr1525]

Well, some improvement is a good start. Personaly, since you are seeing progress, next time you detail I would work in a few more applications on the trouble spots.

But you may as well enjoy your wax job for a little while.

Also, if you have not used a clay bar yet, you really should do so with your next detail.

Yes, DC# 1 is much milder than ScratchX. It is good for cleaning, but not to remove swirls. However, it is also much easier to apply for when you dont want/need to use ScratchX.

Also, be sure to dress any black/gray plastic parts.

Your next full detail can look like this:

1. Wash - Gold Class, Nxt, etc.

2. Clay - Smooth Surface CLay kit

3. Clean - ScratchX or DC#1

4. Polish - Deep Crystal #2 is a good, easy to use polish.

5. Wax - Your favorite wax is also good, Nxt, Gold CLass, #21, etc.

[CathyG]

I actually only have wax on the hood, top, and one side at the moment. I`m keeping a panel that has plenty of scratches on it unwaxed while I try to get the technique down for Scratch-X. I`m also seeing how NXT spray wax competes with Mothers cleaner wax. I had it pointed out to me that I have single stage paint. Does that make a difference in what will work on my truck? Also I went over my black trim today with Natural Shine. That stuff is amazing. The best compliment I heard was from a neighbor. He wanted to know where I got my truck`s trim redone so fast.

[Murr1525]

Well, a spray wax and a cleaner/wax are going to be two different things. Are you sure those are what you meant?

The same products will work for clear coat and single stae paints. Was your applicator pad turning the color of the paint?

[CathyG]

I did some more reading and I guess spray wax is intended mainly as a touch-up? I haven`t used it yet so no problems there. My applicator pads were turning dark black while applying stuff and even the smaller of my chips expose metal. I thought that was normal and everybodys car did it. Thanks for taking the time to answer all my questions. It helps a lot when somebody can make suggestions about what your doing wrong and how to fix it. I`m fine with having some parts of my truck look different from others if it means that on the next detail it all comes out looking great. I`ll probaly see how Meguiars cleaner wax does next time I have some extra cash but right now I`m having electrical problems and the truck starting reliably comes before experimenting with waxes.

[F-150]

Color X is another product you might want to look into.

[Murr1525]

Well, an applicator will turn black on clear coat if it is dirty enough.. but if you are keeping getting black and more black, then it is the paint. Perfectly normal though.

Yes, you would use a spray wax or a quick detail spray after washing to bring back that nice shine, fresh waxed look, etc.

A cleaner/wax contains the clean/polish/wax steps all in one. Like anything, dedicated products will work better than an all-in-one, but the time savings is nice in a rush. As F-150 said, ColorX and the Cleaner/Wax are two products made by Meguiars as well. And I love ColorX, it is definately a product too add to your shelf when you get the spare cash.

1986 Ford Bronco II - Extreme Makeover

[TH0001]

Alright, try this if you must(enter at your own risk)...

Buy some of tha cheap, crappy turtle wax rubbing compound in an orange container (maybe its red). Apply it to a terry cloth and polish the surface lightly. You will notice the shine comes back pretty quickly, but the surface left behind will probably not be that nice. However this gravel in a can will quickly cut the oxidation.

Now use ScratchX via foam pad to polish the area, using a little bit of passion. 2 or the 3 passes should clean up the area nicely, and give you a clearer reflection.

Now apply a nice "pure polish" or glaze, such as Meguiars #7 (my preference on single stage paints) or DC2... Wipe one using quick overlapping strokes, then wipe off before it dries. With #7 it will take a couple passes of removing to get it all off.

Now apply NXT wax and let it dry for 15-20 minutes, until it swipes dry, then wipe off. You finish should look great...

The Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound is probably the crappiest product evermade, but it will cut the oxidation out quickly. However, I would first try ScratchX with a terry cloth first before stepping up to such a crappy product.

You want to use a terrycloth because oxidized paint will gum up a foat pad quickly and reduce its effectivness. The nap in terrycloth will catch that gummed up, dead paint and the also act to more abbrasively by providing some cutting action.

[CathyG]

I have my camera with me so I wanted to post some before/after pics. I`ve been working on it so gradually I didn`t realize how much better it`s looking. Here`s before.

Here`s an after. I haven`t waxed this side yet. I wanted to work on the scratches some more.

Check out the swirl marks on the before where the sun hits it.

[CathyG]

Here`s some of what the front of my hood looks like. It`s got a ton of rock chips and etching.

I cleaned off those water spots on the bottom.
I didn`t want to use touch up paint before because it really stood out but now that my hood is pretty much back to being black I`ll have to go get some to fix those chips.

As you can see even the smaller chips go right down to metal. I think the paint got real brittle from not being maintained.

One more before picture of swirls and brittle faded trim

[CathyG]

The whole hood.

[Murr1525]

Yeah, startin to look good. And when it starts looking good, all the little things start appearing more noticable.

Cant help but notice the after pic is more in the shade, be sure to have a look at all of it in the sun to see if you missed any spots.

[F-150]

yeah the after pic doesn't tell us much unless you have it in the sun.