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**farmboy** · Jul 4, 2006, 05:46 PM

That kit will keep your car paint looking good. #80 Speed Glaze is a combination paint cleaner/polish. It works great and is a very popular product.

I would recommend trying the car care RX on this site to see how often you should wax. They will ask you various questions and recommend product and how often based on your answers.

**Murr1525** · Jul 4, 2006, 06:13 PM

Well, it is a little different working by hand and machine.

Since you want to go with the G-100, we can just focus on that.

Here is the process you will want to use:

1. Wash - 2 bucket system, etc.

2. Clay

3. Cleaner/Polish - #80 applied with the #8006 pad. Remove after a panel or two with the Supreme Shine MF towels.

4. Wax - You can apply Gold Class or Nxt Wax with the 9006 pad. Remove this with the MF Bonnet over a clean/dry 8006 pad.

Remember you only want to use one product on each pad, so you may need to order some extra pads as you get more products.

1. You let the wax sit until it is dry. Basicaly, apply wax to the whole car, in a thin layer. Then wait afew minutes. swipe the wax with the bonnet/towel, and see if it removes cleanly, or is still a bit gummy. Wait until it wipes off easily, then go around the car removing.

2. Curing basicaly means that the wax takes a few hours to full set up and look its best. But the wax is dry right away, and you can drive right away.

3. 2 thin coats is best. You should wait about 20 minutes, but the absolute best is 12 hours between coats.

4. By hand, you go wash-->clay-->cleaner-->polish-->wax. By machine, it is more wash-->clay-->cleaner/polish-->wax. Cleaners and cleaner/polishes will remove swirls, not pure polishes.

5. After future washes, it is nice to use a quick detailing spray, or a spray wax, to get that nice freshly waxed look back. If you do that, you will notice aftera few washes that the spray wax / quick detailer become hard to use/remove. Then is a good time to rewax.

6. A clay bar is a great start. Remember to cut it up into smaller peices, because if you drop one just toss it. And you can clay paint-->glass-->trim-->wheels-->exhaust tips in that order only.

7. wash-->clay-->cleaner/polish-->wax.

8. M80 is a great, mild cleaner polish, You will use this most often with the G-100. Use the bonnets over a clean #8006 pad.

9. And there is always more things to 'need' and get.....

**scarface_** · Jul 4, 2006, 06:21 PM

First off you may want to read through this...

Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle

Step 1 Wash

Step 2 Clean

Step 3 Polish

Step 4 Protect

Step 5 Maintain

and for cure time

NXT Tech Wax Cure Time

Now i'll try and answer some questions you have..

Originally posted by Jeweladdict how long was i suppose to leave the wax on? I pretty much did wax on wax off, but from other threads it seems like i should have let it settle?

Yes, you need to let it dry, by doing the swipe test.
How to tell when a Meguiar's wax is ready to remove - The Swipe Test

Originally posted by Jeweladdict How many coats of wax am I suppose to put on it? How long do I wait between coats?

Some leave it at one coat, some do 2. People wait different times, its up to you. Some wait a half hour, some wait 12-24 hours.

Originally posted by Jeweladdict I don't have to wax after every wash right? Maybe once every couple of months? When do I know it's a good time to wax?

No, you don't have to wax every time you wash, usually people wait a couple of months, some a cpl weeks. Usually people say they can tell when the wax iis off by how smooth it is, if it isn't that smooth that means the wax is coming off.

Originally posted by Jeweladdict In order to get everything right the next time, I should claybar after washing right?

Yes you should clay after you wash the car, i noticed you got a brand new car but sometimes it gets contaminents in the parking lot or such. You don't need to clay after every wash though.

Originally posted by Jeweladdict
2 W8006 Foam Polishing Pad <- used for polishing
1 W9006 Foam Finishing Pad <- used for waxing right?
1 X4003 Microfiber Bonnet (2 Pack) <- used to take off excess wax and polish?

w8006 pads are for polishing yes.
w9006 are used for waxing.
MF bonnets are for removing the wax once you have done the swipe test.

Originally posted by Jeweladdict M8032 Speed Glaze 32 oz. <- what's this?

Thats m80. Its a good cleaner/polish you use with the DA. m83 is the one that has a little more kick to it to remove harder to remove swirls.

m8032 means 32oz m80. You go by the first 2 numbers for the product.

Ok i think that should help you out for now, if i missed something just ask. Wow i need to find an easier way to do this .

Edit : LOL see i'm slow at adding all that stuff in, Murr's quick. Took me 15 minutes to write that

. I better start getting better at this.

**TH0001** · Jul 4, 2006, 06:33 PM

Okay, Ill do my best to help you from the top...

"how long was i suppose to leave the wax on? I pretty much did wax on wax off, but from other threads it seems like i should have let it settle?"

Meguiars recommends letting ALL their waxes and sealents dry to a haze before removing. You should apply a thin coat in overlapping strokes. It will dry to a white haze. Then briskly swipe your finger across the surface of the haze. If it removes all the wax and you have clear paint underneath, then your free to wipe the remainder off. If it wipes the haze away but is still greasy under, then the wax hasn't setup yet and needs more time.

"How long does it have to cure for?"

As long as it takes to give a clean swipe with swipe test. Generally 10-15 minutes (provided you applied the coat thin enough), though factors such as product, heat, and humidity, and also the thickness will effect the setup time. This is the setup time. Cure time is generally how long between coats, which we will get to in your next question.

"How many coats of wax am I suppose to put on it? How long do I wait between coats?"

I am not sure about Gold Class, but 12 hours is recommended to make sure the wax has fully cured. Before twelve hours you shouldn't quick detail it or wash it. Two thin coats is better then one thick coat, but there is no hard rule. You will reach a point of diminishing returns as you apply more coats, and it is possible to reach a peak. If two doesn't look good, try for a third and see if it makes a difference.

"What is this curing that I'm reading about? Does this mean I'm not suppose to drive until it's done curing? How long does it have to cure for?"

Curing is the time it takes for wax to fully harden on the surface. This occurs after you wipe the haze off. It generally takes between 12-24 hours, though 12 hours is a safe bet, IMO. You shouldn't wash it or use any abbrasive action on the paint (even with a microfiber, no quickdetailing, no washing, ect). You don't even have to follow the cure time, you could add another coat of wax right away if you choose, just the longer you can wait the better.

"When am i suppose to polish? Only when i want to remove swirls and stuff? after every single wash? only before waxing?"

Meguiars pure polish is non abbrasive and will not remove swirls and stuff. It is an optional step, applied after you wash, but before you wax that enriches the paint and increases the reflection. Meguiars' paint cleaners or cleaner/polishs feature abbrasives that will remove swirl marks (this is what other compaines refer to as polishes or polishing). You can use these products when you want to remove swirl marks or paint defects.

You should evaluate the surface of your vehicle and make a determination on the steps you want to use in order to achieve the results you want. Cleaners (abbrasive polishes) will remove defects, and also everything on top of the paint, including waxes, sealents, and pure polishes.

A typical process (which includes swirl removal) is such

1) Wash
2) Clay
3) Swirl removal using cleaner/polish-paint is now prepped
4) Pure polish- to enchance shine
5) Sealent/Wax- to lock in your hard work

Pure polishes should be sealed and be protected by wax/sealent otherwise they will not last long.

"I don't have to wax after every wash right? Maybe once every couple of months? When do I know it's a good time to wax?"

Wax is a scraficial barrier that sacrfices itself to protect your paint. Most waxes also feature agents which enchance shine/depth/clearity and make the paint look better. How often you wax depends on your goals and the enviroment the vehicle lives in. Inside, in a dust free, humidity and temp controlled garage, wax will easily last for six months, outside, in a construction zone with a difficult climate, maybe a month. Gloss usually goes before protection, so if you want to keep the vehicle looking good, wax more often.

So one way to evaluate it is with your eyes, if you notice the paint doesn't have the pop it used to. Or you could look to see when the water isn't beading as well as it did. Or you can take a towel and quickly rub it over the surface... If you hear a squeakly clean sound, your wax is gone. No you don't have to wax it everytime you wash it. You really can't over wax, so play it safe if you must.

"In order to get everything right the next time, I should claybar after washing right? "

It depends, to you feel any contaminents on the surface of the vehicle. If not, then there is no need. Remember, detailing is highly personal, you must achieve the results your after, so their is no hard rules. You must evaluate the surface of your vehicle and determine whether or not claying is necessary. After you clay, you will need to apply a sealent/wax because cllaying removes everything above the paint.

The PorterCable is a good deal, but I would hold off and make sure you master the basics before stepping up to something more advanced.

Hope I helped....

**TH0001** · Jul 4, 2006, 06:35 PM

I see I'm slower then both of you...

**scarface_** · Jul 4, 2006, 07:03 PM

Originally posted by TH0001
I see I'm slower then both of you...

lol, well maybe next time i should do what you did instead of quoting bold everything he said, that takes to long. But after all this typing by the 3 of us i think jewel should be set for a while.

**Jeweladdict** · Jul 4, 2006, 07:55 PM

thanks a bunch

I'm gonna buy the package, a couple more pads, and some pure polish

**MaxImage** · Jul 4, 2006, 11:03 PM

One more thing you might take into account is the fact that drying times and the frequency of wax application is relative. Meaning: your living in SD means that waxing your car every week might be beneficial because of the increased salt content in the air, versus someone in the northeast who has a relative temperate climate in the summer and semi-cold winters, who doesn't need to wax as often. Also, your climate may be more humid than your NE friend, so drying times for you are increased. In our humid weather, I usually wait 30 minutes on clients' cars, and anywhere from 30 minutes to 24 hours on my own. Do note that these are just examples.

Also, because your car is so new, you may not want to pick up a G100 just yet. You many want to pick up a pair of Even Coat applicators and a bottle of M21 Synthetic Sealant instead and save your money. Additionally, because the buffing pad has a larger surface area than the hand applicator, in the long run, you may waste more product. As your car ages and gets swirls/scratches, then you may want to pick one up. I am in no way discouraging you to get a G100, as it is a great machine to have, but I'm just saying that what you have (i.e a new car) might not warrant it as something you need at this time.

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Complete detailing newbie, so confused...

Complete detailing newbie, so confused...

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