If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Today, I went back and ordered M26 along with the M#20. "saved on shipping".
Here're the steps I'm going to do to my wife's new "white" Buick Rainier.
1.Gold Class wash.
2.Meguiars cleaner/wax ( few water spots in the paint when bought) the cleaner/wax, have taken them out from what I can see. I really need to do the whole car though.
You can only see the water spots, if you look at just the right angle when the sun hits it just right. Wife thinks I'm crazy.
Sorry back to the steps.
3.M#20
4.Wait 12-24 hours
5.M26
6.QD as needed.
How does this sound?
Also, should I apply steps 2-5 by hand or with an orbital buffer ( which I have). The new Paint looks very good already, so I wasn't sure what you guys would recommend application wise.
Can't wait to get and try these Meguiars products...
That sounds like a great combination! I'm using #26 over a competitor's sealant (Klasse -- just because I bought it last year and don't believe in throwing out product), and have been very happy with the results!
I purchased the Klasse before I decided to go "all Meg's." I used it within an otherwise straight Meg's setup: wash->clay (well, I'm using another brand of clay, too . . . have to use that up too!)->DC1 cleaner->DC2 polish->Klasse SG, and then as desired/needed, #26 topper (note that #26 is indeed available in paste form). DC1 and DC2 I applied by machine. The Klasse is going around two months now, and I haven't seen any decrease in the product even after many rainstorms (unusually rainy this spring even for the Northwest) and many washes. I know that some have said you have to put it directly on paint prepped by Klasse AIO, but it doesn't seem to have been hurt being put on DC2.
That said, although I'm more than satisfied with Klasse's durability, its shine hasn't really impressed me. After I applied it, I thought "that's it?" and felt that it muted the finish a little bit. Basically gave me, say, 80-90% of what I was used to seeing when topping with Gold Class by machine. But GC never lasted long. That said, my topping it with #26 (see my other post with picturs regarding this . . . let me know if you need the link . . .) has really improved matters to the point where I am now satisfied.
I'm thinking long and hard of going with a Meg's sealant like 20/21 at least for my major "spring detail" and relegating the Klasse for my major "fall detail," the latter when I'm most concerned about durability for the rainy season. If 20/21 lasts as long as Klasse promises to last (they say "up to 12 months" so I'm hoping 6 months is accurate), then I might just relegate Klasse to wheel sealing duty . . . . .
miked2, how long does #26 last when you use it on top of Klasse?
Also, should I apply #20 and # 26 by hand or with an orbital buffer ( which I have already). This will be on a new car so the paint looks good already. I'm just not sure what's the best way to apply this stuff when I get it.
How often should you apply #20 and or #26 together or separately.
The "original glow" of #26 lasts about a couple of weeks for me when topped on Klasse. The rest of the wax probably lasts another 2-3 weeks. However, this is with the car being driven in a lot of rain, which is probably affecting wax durability.
I recieved both #20 and #26 today.. I was shipped an extra bottle of #20 by mistake.. I called and told them about it ( the bottle was cracked) they told me to just throw it away..
Anyway, the bottle that was cracked was still more than half full. My question is the consistancy of the cracked bottle and the other bottle of # 20 is different. The cracked bottle isn't as thick as the uncracked #20.
What effects if any will come about using the cracked bottle of #20 over the other one? If it's unusable I'll just throw it away.
Comment