Thin Scratches, Want them Gone.

[uthscsa19]

I just bought my car about 3 weeks ago, and when washing my car last night, I found these 2 4-5in long scratches on my trunk lid. They run from front to back, and are very thin. When the car has any amount of dust on it, its impossible to see them. You also have to look at it at just the right angle to see them aswell. No one can see them, but I know that they are there, so thats all that matters.

Just to let you know how small they are, its impossible to feel them with the tip of my fingers after I've washed and dryed my car. However, if I run my nail across the paint, I can feel the slight bump where the scratch is.

How do I go about removing these? Im abit worried about removing to much paint on a brand-new car. Would Scratch X be my best bet? I have added 2 coats of Gold Class to my car about 2 weeks ago, so I don't know if I'd have to remove the wax before removing the scratches. Can someone please suggest a course of action for the removal of these scratches.

[TKDDAD]

Welcome to MOL !!!

It's always helpful to have pictures of what the issue is...any idea what caused the scratches ??...I had several similar scratches caused from a towel being dragged across the hood of my black car...

they weren't deep enough to feel but were very noticeable...ScratchX worked great on them...took a while as the product needs to be used with some passion behind the applicator...I just used ScratchX yesterday on a bird drop etching and it worked beautifully...I used a foam applicator...

You'll want to reapply your wax after you use the ScratchX...don't be worried about removing too much paint...you won't...

Good Luck

[uthscsa19]

Well my best guess would be that a cat decided to take a nap on my car, then decided to dash of my trunk lid leaving some nice scratches. Thats what it looks like to me, however I'm not 100% sure what caused it. I don't have a digital camera, so I can not provide pictures of the scratches. It would be almost impossible to photograph them anyways, since it has to be just the right angle to see them. The car also has to be just washed to see them aswell.

[TKDDAD]

cats....I won't go there

give ScratchX a try...you might be pleasently surprised...

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Thin Scratches, Want them Gone.

Originally posted by uthscsa19
How do I go about removing these? Im abit worried about removing to much paint on a brand-new car.


Would Scratch X be my best bet? I have added 2 coats of Gold Class to my car about 2 weeks ago, so I don't know if I'd have to remove the wax before removing the scratches.

Can someone please suggest a course of action for the removal of these scratches.

Hi uthscsa19,

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

Sorry to hear of your mishap, but we should be able to see you through to success...

First let's get on the same page, here's a little article that I wrote that explains what you're going to need to do...

What it means to remove a scratch out of anything...


In order to remove a scratch out of anything, metal, plastic glass, paint, etc. You must remove material around the scratch until the surface is level or equal to the lowest depths of the scratch or scratches.

The below diagram if for paint, the the same thing applies to just about an surface material or coating.



In essences, you don't really remove a scratch, you remove material around a scratch.

Then the big question is, is the material or coating workable, as in can you abrade small particles of it and leave behind an original looking surface. For example, some things you can abrade, (remove the scratch), but you can never completely remove all of your abrading marks, thus you can't really fix the problem, all you can do is exchange one set of scratches of a different set of scratches.

The next questions is, how thick is the surface material you're working on or the coating. You are limited to what you can do by the thickness of these to things, (surface coating or surface material), and whether or not this surface is workable.

Sometimes you don't know what you can so until you try. It's always a good idea to test your choice of products, applicator materials and application process, (By hand or by machine), to an inconspicuous area. If you cannot make a small area look good with your product, applicator and process, you will not be able to make the entire surface look good. It's always a good idea to test first and error on the side of caution, versus make a mistake you cannot undo.

[Mike Phillips]

Next, the most important part about removing what we here at Meguiar's call,

Below Surface Defects

Things like swirls and scratches, it to understand and use the correct technique with each of the products you apply. In the case of removing below surface defects like the scratches in your deck lid, you're going to want to use ScratchX and follow the techniques outlined in this little article I wrote on the topic...

How to use ScratchX by hand to remove defects like these,

1. Scratches
2. Swirls
3. Bird Dropping Etchings
4. Water spots
5. Scuff and Mars

++ = Success!

A couple of important notes to consider,

1) Clear coats are harder than traditional paints. This means they are more difficult to remove defects out of, especially by hand. This is part explains the increase in popularity of the Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher.

2) ScratchX is not a wipe-on, wipe-off product, (WOWO), it's more of a wipe on, work in product, (WOWI). You need to apply with a clean foam applicator pad and work the product in with a little passion.




Here is how to remove a bird dropping etching or an isolated scratch.[list=1][*] Only work a small area at a time - about 6 inch by 6 inch area or smaller[*] You can apply using a combination of circular motions and straight-line motions[*] Work the product against the finish until it looks as you have almost run out of product.[*] Re-apply the product and repeat the above steps 2-3 more times[/list=1]
When I apply ScratchX like I have listed above, I am able to get out about 95% of a bird dropping etching or isolated random scratches.

The trick is to work the product in until it just begins to disappear and to apply more than one application. You see, the ScratchX, like all Meguiar's Paint Cleaners, contain a diminishing abrasive, as you work ScratchX in, the microscopic diminishing abrasives gently abrade the surface removing small particles of paint. But as you work it in, these diminishing abrasives breakdown. Thus, they quit abrading the finish and actually polish the finish to a clear, high gloss. This diminishing action turned polishing action is a benefit to you because it enable you to work out defects without leaving scratches behind.

Because the diminishing abrasive breakdown, you need to re-apply and repeat the process until the defects are removed.

Note: You can rarely remove a bird dropping etching, or a scratch, from a clear-coated finish with one application.

"A little technique goes a long way"

ScratchX works, if you work it. It takes a little practice to get the hang of removing defects out of modern clear coats with hi-tech products like ScratchX. It' not like the old days with a traditional lacquer or enamel paint job where you could apply some old-fashioned rubbing compound and in a few passes, the scratch would be gone, (and so would a lot of your paint).

High gloss clear coats are thin delicate surface coatings that are easily dulled and easily scratched. Once they are dulled down and/or scratched, it takes the right product, the right technique together with the human element of care and passion to massage them back to a glistening gemstone.

Have patience, and if at first you don't succeed, try try again.

Mike

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Thin Scratches, Want them Gone.

Originally posted by uthscsa19
Just to let you know how small they are, its impossible to feel them with the tip of my fingers after I've washed and dryed my car. However, if I run my nail across the paint, I can feel the slight bump where the scratch is.

Generally speaking, modern clear coat finishes are harder than traditional single stage lacquers and enamels, not all clear coats as some are in fact very soft, but chances are on any given day, the clear coat finish on a new car will be harder and more durable than the finish that came on a 1966 Mustang.

What this means is it will be more difficult for you and I to remove defects out of the paint because of this hardness factor. This is why your product choice and technique are so important. Point being, even light scratches can be difficult to remove. If you're lucky... it won't be a problem. Truth of the matter is however, you're not going to know how easy or difficult the scratches are to remove untill you take your hands and go out into your garage and try applying the product a few times and see what kind of results you're getting.

I have added 2 coats of Gold Class to my car about 2 weeks ago, so I don't know if I'd have to remove the wax before removing the scratches.

This is easy... think about it... if ScratchX is effective enough to remove small particles of paint in an effort to level the suface and in effect remove the below surface defects, then any coating of wax on the surface will be removed in the process.

[SL1CK]

Mike, do I have to remove my previous application of ScratchX before I apply my 2nd application?

[SVT Lightning]

Originally posted by uthscsa19
Well my best guess would be that a cat decided to take a nap on my car, then decided to dash of my trunk lid leaving some nice scratches. Thats what it looks like to me, however I'm not 100% sure what caused it. I don't have a digital camera, so I can not provide pictures of the scratches. It would be almost impossible to photograph them anyways, since it has to be just the right angle to see them. The car also has to be just washed to see them aswell.

I've had several cat scratches on my hood (it's black). ScratchX removed them all. I followed Mikes advice and it worked purrfectly!

[miked2]

ScratchX should do the trick. Read the posts mentioned above, as proper technique is crucial to getting results (essentially, apply a little bit, scrub the he** out of the area, and repeat 3-5 times as needed).

If the scratches are very very fine, some DC1 paint cleaner with an orbital buffer also does wonders!

[uthscsa19]

I was also looking at buying DC1 and DC2 to do before my next waxing. Since I saw that both DC1 and DC2 are suppose to remove hairline scratches, would this do the trick? If the car is brand-new, and I've washed and waxed it from the get-go, would I need to clay it already? I was hoping I could go until my next waxing to do the clay. This weekend I hope to do:

1. Wash
2. DC1
3. DC2
4. GC wax

or

1. Wash
2. Scratch X (only on the trunk lid)
3. GC wax

Would the DC1 and DC2 remove some small scratches and provide a nicer shine or am I better off going with the Scratch X. Also, how do I apply DC1 and DC2, so that I can buy the extra sponges/etc. I have two sponges that I bought for waxing. Would I just get more of these for the paint cleaner and polish? I have a midsized car and was wondering how much of the bottle of each should I use. I'm always wondering how much wax/polish/cleaner I should put on the car. How many coatings of wax/polish/cleaner should I get out of a bottle for a mid/large sedan.

Also, how long should I let the wax sit before wiping it off. I use GC liquid wax, and normally do the two front quarter panels, the front facia and the hood all in one go, then start taking off the wax in the order I applied it. Then I do the rear panels, the roof and trunk. Should I leave it on longer?

Thanks

[miked2]

I'd recommend using DC1 before ScratchX. DC1 is easier to apply than ScratchX. If any scratches remain after DC1, then go to ScratchX. After this process has been followed, you then proceed to DC2. DC1 and DC2 will both darken the paint very nicely as well!

Use a separate applicator for at least DC1 and DC2 (i.e., one for DC1, and one for DC2). Ideally, you would have a separate applicator for ScratchX as well. But, in a pinch you can use the same one for both DC1 and ScratchX.

You should also have a separate applicator for your wax. But, in a pinch, use the opposite side of the applicator you used for DC2. Both the wax and DC2 are non-abrasive, whereas both the DC1 and ScratchX are abrasive.

[uthscsa19]

Well, when I go buy my DC1 and DC2, I will buy another 2 pack of terry cloth applicators (I think they are terry cloth, maybe something else). They are re-washable, so I'll buy a set of 4 (2 for wax, 1 for DC1 and 1 for DC2. Since I have steel grey paint (semi-dark) I hope this will improve the color and shine.