#66 Question

[Rowen]

can 66 be applied by hand, then left dry abit, before removing it using the W9 polishing pad?

Or it recommended applying the 66 by machine, then removing by hand?

any help will be much apperciated!

[Murr1525]

#66 is a cleaner wax, so let it dry and haze before removing.

To remove, you can use a clean #8006 pad or #7006 pad with a bonnet over them. You have ot have the bonnets over the pads to remove the wax.

Or, you can use a microfiber towel by hand.

Removing by machine tends to give a little bit better of a look I think.

[Mike Phillips]

Just to add to what Murr1525 wrote,

• * All Meguiar's waxes can be applied by hand.
  * All Meguiar's waxes can be applied using an orbital polisher of any type.
  * All Meguiar's waxes can be removed by hand.
  * All Meguiar's waxes can be removed using an orbital polisher of any type.
  
  * Some waxes in Meguiar's Professional Line can be applied using a rotary buffer - (we don't recommend this if you're looking for a swirl-free finish but we know some production shops don't care about swirls they're only after speed and shine)
  
  * We do not recommend removing any of our waxes using a rotary buffer

Does that help?

[Rowen]

Yes Mike it does to a certain extend... Thanks Murr

Lets just take a step back here, my understnding of 66 is that its a combinations of a

Paint cleaner
Polish
Wax

correct?

Which is perfect for productions, however it does not have the aggresivness of #83 or *80, infact not even close?

Let me re-phase the initial question! which is the better method to apply 66 in order to obtain best results?

[the other pc]

The scale on the bottle indicates that #66 is about the same aggressiveness as #80. That's only an approximation because every different paint/product/pad/machine combination responds differently but it gets you in the ballpark.



As for the "best" way to apply it, that depends on what you're after. For high volume restoration operations, like used car lots, who want the most effect for the least work (and don't care about a few swirls) a rotary is appropriate.

To a quality minded user a DA buffer will avoid swirls and leave a great finish but may not be aggressive enough for severe defects.


PC.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by the other pc


As for the "best" way to apply it, that depends on what you're after. For high volume restoration operations, like used car lots, who want the most effect for the least work (and don't care about a few swirls) a rotary is appropriate.

To a quality minded user a DA buffer will avoid swirls and leave a great finish but may not be aggressive enough for severe defects.


PC.

What he said.

To tell you the truth, M66 is very effective as a one-step product. If your goals are a perfect finish, i.e. no scratches or other defects in the paint at all, then a one-step isn't the answer in the first place as you're needing a Multiple Step System Approach.

If you just want to clean the paint, restore clarity, color, gloss, reflectivity and shine, but leaving the scratches behind is okay, (they'll be shiny), then M66 will do this for you and do it in one step.


The big question is this,

What do you want to do?
What is your goal?

If you're detailing cars for money, you have basically two options, do a multi-step show car finish and get your price up to $300.00 plus U.S. dollars or focus on production type work, i.e. Wash & Wax, where the goal is not a show car finish, (defect-free), but a shiny car.

Remember, most "Joe Consumers & Joanne Consumers" don't know the difference and don't want to pay the high price for a show car finish.

You need to figure out what your market is, and what they're willing to pay and then create an offer they can't refuse at a price they're willing to pay.

Two basic options...

Production work
Show car work

To tell you the truth, production work is easier, faster and in most cases, more profitable. The key is to keep your customers expectations in check.

[Rowen]

I recently obtained a contract to maintain a used car lot,

My goal try and do as many cars in a day, i.e production work, the customer isn't interested in a flawless finish or decfect free finish.

He just wants a "shiny" car,a nd is certainly not paying for a multi-step finish. Therefore 66 is an ideal option right?

[Rowen]

another question..

at what speed should the 66 be applied if using a DA?

[Pete-FWA]

Originally posted by Rowen
He just wants a "shiny" car,a nd is certainly not paying for a multi-step finish. Therefore 66 is an ideal option right?

Yes, it is. When I did these types of vehicles at my business, we went through gallons of M66. It leaves the finish in good shape with minimal work, compared to multi-stage processes.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Rowen
another question..

at what speed should the 66 be applied if using a DA?

Use the 5.0 setting.

Some people doing production work will use a faster setting, such as the 6.0 setting, this will give you more power and thus the ability to cover more surface area faster but over time you'll generate a lot of heat, enough to cause the adhesive that holds the Velcro to both the pad and the backing plate to de-laminate.

If you choose to use a higher setting, don't expect a refund or a replacement when the pad fails because Meguiar's doesn't recommend anything over the 5.0 setting.

My point is, I know guys that use the higher setting, Knowing the pad will eventually fail, but they don't mind the trade-off for more power and the ability to move faster when doing production work.

Down the road they wash the pads and the Velcro and glue the Velcro back on.