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**jfelbab** · May 13, 2004, 09:33 AM

Re: Abrasive index #9 or #A30

Originally posted by darkage
First of all a big thanks to 2000 and jfelbab for their suggestions to get me started

I saw on a abrasive comparasion that #9 is the gentlest cleaner compared to #A30, but A30 doesn't contain abrasives which #9 does. Does this mean #A30 doesn't bite into the clear coat? but its a cleaner and cleaners have to take away a little of the clear coat.. hmmmm

I went out and Hunted around for Megs products, theres a limited range of products out here in Australia. This is what I got -

#A30 Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner
#A21 Deep Crystal Polish
#26 High Tech Yellow Wax (paste form)

The other products avialable are -
#7 Show Car Glaze
#82 Swirl Free Polish
#9 Swirl Remover

I was thinking just because of the abrasive index (http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...=&threadid=770) that it might be better to use a few coats of #9 rather than A30 which is higher on the scale. You know the theory its best to use the weakest cleaner first to see if it does the job first. Would it be wise to use #9 instead of #a30?

Also is #7 better than #A21? wasn't sure which one to pick. I had a feeling that #7 didn't last as long as #A21

I'll post some pictures of my ride, so you can have a better idea. Originally I didn't really care about the swirl marks, but now Im starting to feel a little crazy. Wondering if I should go completely mad and attempt to get them out.. But that would probably need to go to the PC level. Then again a PC would take away more clear coat than by hand

Thanks again, hopefully it wont rain on the weekend so I can make my car shine and post some after pics here.

Welcome back Darkage. Happy you found our comments helpful.

Here are a couple more. What you have will work. But if you are feeling "Crazy," from the products you have available, I think I swap out the A21 for the #7.

You didn't mention clay so if Meg's Quik Clay isn't available look for another brand. It is very important to clay if your car has that rough dirty feel feel to the paint after you wash it.

See how easy it is to become Car Crazy.

Looking forward to the pics.

Nothing nicer than than to be driving a glowing shiny car that is turning heads. I drove my MR2 into the Toyota dealership for an oil change recently. The service writing area is very bright and well lit with lots of florescent lights. I had just finished detailing the MR2 and it was radiant. Everyone in the place had to stop and come look at it and comment on the shine. It really felt good. One of the mechanics asked if I wanted to sell it. Everyone wanted to know what I used to polish it. I pointed to my cap and smiled.

**darkage** · May 13, 2004, 10:10 PM

Opps I do have the clay (: thats the first thing I purchased. Not sure if you should just clay the whole car or just when it feels rough. I guess its the first time this car would of seen clay in its life.

If I do take the #9 path, since its part polish would you still follow up with a pure polish? I guess its personal perference.

Am I correct to assume that #9 is more gentle than #A30?
or is it a trick question between one saying abrasive and the other non-abrasive. I prefer the more gentle treatment.

Would you pick #A21 Deep Crystal Polish or #7 Show Car Glaze?

From my research the Glaze fills in the gaps more and the polish might have some slight cutting ability.

Heres before pics. I've linked them as I didn't want to cheese off any dialup ppl.

My car with morning dew on it, next too my old 260z.

Pic of Whole car

Up close image showing minor swirls. this is pretty much how the condition of the paint is all over the car. It doesn't show up that much probably due to metallic paint, hard to see unless you look for it. Not bad for a 14 year old car

Bonnet Pic

Front fender, looks great.

Fender Pic

Mind the dirt, but you can see slight oxidation on the trailing edge of the spoiler. Its really hard to see, you have to look at it at the right angle. This is as bad as it gets on the car. Got a feeling scratch-X should be used on this part only.

Spoiler Pic

Hopefully after my experience I can help out the other newbies on the forum

Ahh that crazy feeling building up again.

**jfelbab** · May 14, 2004, 07:38 AM

Opps I do have the clay (: thats the first thing I purchased. Not sure if you should just clay the whole car or just when it feels rough. I guess its the first time this car would of seen clay in its life.

If I do take the #7 path, since its part polish would you still follow up with a pure polish? I guess its personal perference.

Am I correct to assume that #7 is more gentle than #A21?
or is it a trick question between one saying abrasive and the other non-abrasive. I prefer the more gentle treatment.

Would you pick #A21 Deep Crystal Polish or #7 Show Car Glaze?

From my research the Glaze fills in the gaps more and the polish might have some slight cutting ability.

Hi Darkage,

Do everything in the shade on a cool paint surface.

After you have washed and dried your car do this test to determine if it needs to be clayed. Draw your fingers over a few places on the hood, roof or trunk. If you feel specs of dirt attached to the paint it's time to clay. The paint should feel as smooth as glass. This bonded dirt is typically concentrated on the horizontal surfaces. The doors and fenders may or may not need claying. Do the same test to decide.

Before you begin to clay be sure to break the clay bar in half or thirds and put the unused pieces in a zip-loc type bag. If you drop the clay you are working with on the ground throw it away and grab another piece. Don't try to salvage it.

Take your time, You get the hang of claying fairly quickly. No need to apply much pressure. The clay should glide easily across the lubed surface. Keep the surface well lubed and rub in back and forth strokes, not circular. Feel the surface with your fingers and if the bonded stuff is gone the paint will feel like glass. Do small 2x2 foot sections at a time and wipe up the lube with a soft terrycloth or MF towel as you go.

Next clean the surface with a cleaner. Again, use back and forth strokes. Use sparingly, work the cleaner until it breaks down and remove immediately with towel or MF. Again do small sections at a time and examine the results before moving on. This stage will remove a lot of swirl marks. If you still have swirls or scratches, reapply the cleaner or buy a product that is more abrasive.

Following the cleaning apply a polish/glaze. This will add the deep wet look as it refurbishes the paint. I prefer to use #7 for this step. Again do small sections and use back and forth strokes. Again, don't apply heavy and be sure to work it until it liquifies then remove. It is a good idea to use lots of toweling here to remove. If the #7 starts to pile up in spots change to a fresh applicator and use sparingly.

Next apply a wax or polymer to protect that look. Your choice of #26 is a good one. This product produces a deep wet look, especially nice on a dark finish. This product will go on and remove very easily. Like the others use very sparingly. Thin is better.

To maintain your finish try using Quik Detailer after washings to return the car to that just waxed look and feel.

A note about washing. Use the two bucket method. One bucket for the soap and one bucket of clean water to rinse your wash mitt after each body panel. While on the subject, be sure to use a clean wash mitt. This step is the source for many swirl marks. Swirls marks are hard to remove so it is better to be extra cautious at this stage to avoid adding them.

Now go take some more pictures for us.

Jim

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Abrasive index #9 or #A30

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