marring with #80

[tomee]

how soft would my paint be, if i see marring using #80?

still slowly in the process of detailing my car
so far it has taken me 3 days..
seems every panel is different. just found out one of my panels has a clear coat!
teh car is a flat white

using 80 on the bonnet works fine and then work on the doors, it leaves light marring, which requires up to 3 passes of #9 to remove them
which is why it has taken me days.

now im seeing scratches using 80. i work the product in for about 3-5 minutes to make sure all the abrassives have broken down.
checked the pad and MF cloth to see if anything was lodged in it. all ok.

am i working with really soft paint?

[Newport Viper]

What type of pad are you using?

[tomee]

polishing pad

[Monk]

What make and model polishing pad?

[Tim Lingor]

Hi Tomee,

You are not going to a dry buff, correct? In that I mean, you need to work the #80 until it basically turns clear and has formed a very light residue, but not totally dry. If you buff too long, which is what I believe you may be doing, the pad itself could cause marring back into the finish.

As the others have said, which brand of pad are you using?

It is possible that your finish is incredibly soft, in which case following the #80 with #9 or #82 may be needed. However, I have not run into that situation very often. So I am more inclined to think that something with the buffing process is not quite right.

We will figure this out!

Tim

[tomee]

yeah definintely not buffing till dry..
ive used #80 before, and its worked fine..

just on my car its causing scratches.

the pad is megs yellow pad
w8006

[RockyTop]

Should the #80 be hard to wipe off after buffing clear? I buff until the product seems clear. Then I wipe off with a micro but it is difficult to wipe off. Almost like it dries by the time I sit the DA down and grab a towel. Is this normal or am I buffing a little too long?

Thanks

[Marcus]

In my experience, I always have a very oily residue before buffing it off the paint.. So, no, it shouldn't be hard to remove!

#83 can be a little more difficult, especially if the product start gumming up etc, but the M80 shouldn't cause you any problems?

I probably should mention that I mostly use the rotary for applying 83 and 80.

Btw, I have similar problems with the #80 and my Cyclo. I solved that by trying to get all marrings out of the paint with the W9006 pad and rotary instead.
Feels like the product never really breaks down when using the Cyclo.

/Marcus

[RockyTop]

Wow, maybe I am polishing to long and almost buffing dry. How much #80 do you put on the pad each time you polish a section. Do you put an X on the pad each time you begin a new section?

[KLnyc]

Sometime I think temp may be the factor too. Whats the temperature?

[Marcus]

Originally posted by RockyTop
Wow, maybe I am polishing to long and almost buffing dry. How much #80 do you put on the pad each time you polish a section. Do you put an X on the pad each time you begin a new section?

I use very little product. After priming them I only use 5-6 dime sized dots of product for each panel... (area being around 50cm x 40cm)
I always check to see that the pad is moist also. I think I might be bordering on using too little product, but as long as the surface doesn't look dry-buffed...

[RockyTop]

Temperature was around 73°. Now granted, I am a new PC user, so I am still trying to figure this thing out. I have used #80 on 2 different vehicles with good results. It just seems it's a little difficult to wipe off.

[RockyTop]

On another thread 2hotford made mention he would try to snap a few photos to show when #80 has been worked in long enough. I know he is very busy with other projects (nice reviews) but hopefully he can get some photos posted soon.

[KLnyc]

Snap some pics, let us see it.

[RockyTop]

The last time I used the PC to apply wax I was having a tough time with the wax. After some great help here on MOL I think my problem was using too much wax on my pad. The wax was going on thick and taking a long time to dry. Then when I would remove the wax with the bonnet, the wax would streak and I would have to come behind it with a microfiber towel. I found out after the pad was loaded with wax I only needed a small amount of wax on the pad to go on to another panel.

So, I would think using #80 would be the opposite. I lightly spray the pad with QD and then create an X with the #80 and start working it in. After working a panel and breaking down the abrasives, I would think you would need to put the same amount ( X ) of #80 on the pad and work the next panel and so on. My thinking being if you work #80 to the point where the abrasives break down, what is left in the pad would be no good. I need to apply the same amount back to the pad to polish another section.

Please, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Then I work it in until the polish turns clear and remove the #80. I assume my problem with the #80 being semi hard to remove was a result of not removing quick enough. I may be working it in a little past the point of breaking down the abrasive.

Like I said this was only my second time using the PC and #80 and I'm sure it's one of those things you just get the hang of with practice. How many cars did it take for you guys to get the hang of it?

Thanks