How to Clay, and to clean Swirl Mark?

[alteregopo]

I have a 03 Graphite Honda Accord
i wash my baby every other week and wax every other month
however, i still foudn swirl makr on my car!

Q:is there something i am doing wrong when washing or waxing my car? or is it just normal?

Q:how should i get rid of the swirl mark? what kind of product should i use?

Q:is it bad to clay the car since its only 13 months old?
if it is not, how should i clay the car? i meant. is there anything in particular that i need to watch out or be careful about? what are the recommened steps for claying the car?

thanks in advance

[Rockpick]

Re: How to Clay, and to clean Swirl Mark?

Originally posted by alteregopo
I have a 03 Graphite Honda Accord
i wash my baby every other week and wax every other month
however, i still foudn swirl makr on my car!

Q:is there something i am doing wrong when washing or waxing my car? or is it just normal?

Q:how should i get rid of the swirl mark? what kind of product should i use?

Q:is it bad to clay the car since its only 13 months old?
if it is not, how should i clay the car? i meant. is there anything in particular that i need to watch out or be careful about? what are the recommened steps for claying the car?

thanks in advance

Hello alteregopo and welcome to meguiarsonline.com!! We're very glad to have you aboard!

You raise some very pertinent questions and I'll do my best to address them with simplicity and clarity. If you have any questions after reading this short novel, please feel free to post!

Here Goes....

Swirl marks are microscopic scratches caused by just about anything that touches the surface of your vehicle without proper lubrication. In short, the simple act of drying your vehicle after washing could cause the scratches and, many times, you'll have the scratches from the begining (even if you bought it brand new) because of a poor dealer prep job. Swirls are a detailers biggest enemy. GOOD NEWS! We can deal with them and, for the most part, make them vanish with some effort (we'll get to that in a moment).

For now, let's talk about how you wash your vehicle. Most of us are from the 'two-bucket school of washing'. What I mean by this is that we use two buckets (obviously); one is filled with clean water with no soap and the other with clean water/soap. We will wash a small section of our vehicle and then immediately go to the clean water to 'rinse' the sponge/mitt to remove any accumulated grit/grime so that we aren't carrying it into our soap bucket. Once rinsed as best we can, we will then move in for more soap. Mind you, I usually change my 'clean water' bucket about 3 times per standard wash as it will start to look dirty. Don't hesitate to dump that water frequently as it's doing a VERY important step!

An item that many folks use in their clean water bucket (as well as their wash bucket) is the grit-guard insert. This product simply sits in the bottom of your wash bucket and keeps your sponges/mitts from being able to get down into the heavier particles (the grit) so that you aren't continously dragging them across your paint and thus causing some of these surface imperfections that we're trying to prevent.

Another biggie is using a sponge/mitt that is soft enough and has enough nap to it in order to allow that tiny grit/grime particle to become entrapped within the nap of the washing item. Personally, I've found that a natural lamb's wool wash mitt works the best for me. It holds a good deal of carwash solution as well as provides adequate nap so that it can prevent you dragging a bit of grit back and forth on your vehicle as you wash it.

Now, let's talk about drying. Naturally, anything that makes contact with your paint can cause imperfections so, let's try to utilze top-quality products like ultra soft 100% cotton towels and high-quality Waffle-Weave Microfiber Drying Towels. Both of these items offer enough nap to entrap a bit of grit as well as to dry the vehicle effectively. Also, it is important to let the towel do the work. Pressing down and forcing the towel to soak water up causes undo friction and ultimately can cause a small particle of sand or similar to mar and make HUGE problems for your paint. Remember, one tiny grain of sand can ruin your weekend from this particular standpoint!

---

On to swirl mark removal.

Without seeing your swirls, it's tough to give you a definite perscription to remove them but, knowing that it's new and you obviously baby it, I can make a safe assumption in that it's probably not too far gone. For this type of finish, I would probably recommend a product like Meguiar's Swirl Remover 2.0. This is an abrasive type of product designed to safely, yet effectively, remove minor swirls and imperfections. Further, this product can be utilized by hand with pretty darn good results (been there, done that). Be sure to follow the directions and work the product until it's becoming dry.

Another resource for learning about how to remove swirls can be found here. (Barry Meguiar's Prevention and Solutions to Swirl Marks Car Care Clinic).

---

On to Claying...

Claying can be a necessary step on a very new car and certainly a vehicle that has been used for over a year (yes, it's still new!) . Clay is a very simple process that is EXTREMELY effective at removing stuck-on surface contaimination like sap, tar, bugs, rail dust, and other types of industrial fallout. These items are typically a bear to remove by utilizing washing alone.

Here's how to tell if you might need clay. Wash and dry your vehicle. Now, run your hand across some of the body panels on your car (specifically pay attention to the hood, roof, and trunk lid as they are typically the most susceptable to fallout). How do they feel? Rough? Smooth as a baby's butt? In-between?

If you answered rough or in-between, you might want to try clay as it should remove most all of the items that are causing the rough feel. You see, paint should feel like glass. To achieve a higher degree of optical perfection, stuck-on items that cause the rough feel should be removed. Plus, let's face it, when the vehicle's finish is smooth, you're going to feel better about the job you've done.

I'd recommend a kit for claying like the Quik Clay Detailing System. This package contains one bottle of Meguiar's Quick Detailer spray and one claybar.

On a clean, freshly washed vehicle, take the Quick Detailer and mist it onto a small area (I like to work in areas about 3' X 3' or close to that size). Follow with the clay bar and work it in back and forth, up and down motions. If the clay begins to stick or grab to the paint, apply more Quick Detailer spray. Once you've worked that entire area, go back and dry off the excess Detailer spray and run your hand back across that area. How does it feel now? Smooth hopefully! If not, hopefully it feels considerably better... you may need to repeat. Compare it to areas you haven't clayed. I bet you'll like it!!

Of course, as with most proper surface-care techniques, you need to follow with the necessary steps because some steps (like claying) can remove surface protection (wax). So, if you elect to polish, clay, or anything else, be sure to follow through with the necessary protection steps at the end to ensure that your vehicle's finish is properly protected!

I hope my little novel has helped out a bit! Feel free to ask additional questions!

RP

[alteregopo]

thanks for your "novel"
however, i still have some questions!

if i wish to use the Swirl Remover 2.0, #9
should i use it before Claying or after claying?

i've heard some poeple clay the windows also then wax them, does that really do anything?


after claying, i know that i need to wax to keep the car protected
but how many layers of wax should i use?
i will be havign 3 kinds of wax by the way of claying,
which are Mother's Cleaner Wax, S100 Wax and Meguiars' NXT Tech Wax. does it matter which wax i apply first, or do you recommend any order?

[Rockpick]

Originally posted by alteregopo
if i wish to use the Swirl Remover 2.0, #9
should i use it before Claying or after claying?

My personal suggestion would be to utilize the #9 after claying.

i've heard some poeple clay the windows also then wax them, does that really do anything?

I clay my windows and yes, it helps out tremendously to really give them a crystal clear view. Those stuck-on particles that you remove from your paint bond to your window sometimes as well.

I've heard of folks waxing their glass but I can't say I've ever really done it with much success. I certainly don't see that it could hurt a thing. Try it out and let us know how you like it and if you can really see a difference.

after claying, i know that i need to wax to keep the car protected

Exactly correct. As far as numbers of application, my personal opinion is at least TWO coats. I don't know much about S100 but, between Mother's Cleaner Wax and NXT, my preference would be NXT (and I've tried both). NXT really seems to 'pop' and has a tremendous track record with the folks that are using it.

With that being said, I'd apply one coat of NXT and allow it to set for a day or so and then I'd come back and put another coat on. To date, I've been utilizing this techinque (along with an occasional coat of #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax) and I've found that my finish has been brought up to another level. I've even had guys at work (who are totally unaware that there is even such a thing as washing/waxing a vehicle) say to me that my truck looks different and that they LOVE the shine and depth. That really meant something coming from guys who know NOTHING about the time we spend with our vehicles!

If you're going to utilize the #9, you may or may not need to follow with the cleaner wax.... very hard to recommend that particular course of action without seeing some pictures and such. None the less, it probably wouldn't hurt anything.

As far as procedure, go with the #9 (if you elect), cleaner wax (if you elect), and then the two coats of NXT.

I hope that helps! Feel free to post again if you have additional questions!!!

RP

[alteregopo]

i am thinking to use the products in following order

1.Clay Magic
2.Touch-Up Paint
3.Meguiars Swirl Remover. #9
4.Meguiar Hand Polish. #81
5.P21S
6.Meguiars NXT
what do you think of the order?
thanks in advance
Po

[FlaresideLariat]

After claying,

1. MUST you always follow up with something?

2. Also, MUST you always wax after you clay?

3. How often do you clay?

4. Is it OK to just follow up claying with a polish, and not wax?

[MattN03]

Re: Re: How to Clay, and to clean Swirl Mark?

Originally posted by Rockpick
On a clean, freshly washed vehicle, take the Quick Detailer and mist it onto a small area (I like to work in areas about 3' X 3' or close to that size). Follow with the clay bar and work it in back and forth, up and down motions. If the clay begins to stick or grab to the paint, apply more Quick Detailer spray. Once you've worked that entire area, go back and dry off the excess Detailer spray and run your hand back across that area.

RP, I used a shortcut method this past weekend while detailing my 97 Ranger. I clayed the truck (which is badly needed since being neglected & forgotten about because I bought my Mach 1 Mustang) using NXT wash as my lubricant. First, I washed one body panel with the NXT wash & then rinsed the suds off. Next, I put a bunch more NXT suds/water on the body panel & began claying. I then rinsed the panel again. This seemed to work great & kept me from having to use up all my QD.

I don't know if this is a good idea, but it did seem to work fine for me. Thoughts??

[Rockpick]

Originally posted by alteregopo
i am thinking to use the products in following order

1.Clay Magic
2.Touch-Up Paint
3.Meguiars Swirl Remover. #9
4.Meguiar Hand Polish. #81
5.P21S
6.Meguiars NXT
what do you think of the order?
thanks in advance
Po

Sorry for taking so long to respond but I've been absolutely swamped with work and life...

I don't think that's a bad plan (although, again, I can't attest for the P21S as I haven't used it). Depending on your swirls, #81 may have enough kick to take some of the very fine swirls off but, I have a hunch that you'll probably get a better result utilizing both the #9 and #81.

Feel free to ask more if needed!

RP

[Rockpick]

Re: Re: Re: How to Clay, and to clean Swirl Mark?

Originally posted by MattN03
RP, I used a shortcut method this past weekend while detailing my 97 Ranger. I clayed the truck (which is badly needed since being neglected & forgotten about because I bought my Mach 1 Mustang) using NXT wash as my lubricant. First, I washed one body panel with the NXT wash & then rinsed the suds off. Next, I put a bunch more NXT suds/water on the body panel & began claying. I then rinsed the panel again. This seemed to work great & kept me from having to use up all my QD.

I don't know if this is a good idea, but it did seem to work fine for me. Thoughts??

I'll be absolutely honest with you, I've clayed my personal vehicles utilizing the technique that you mentioned. Like you, I had very good results.

As a personal opinion, I don't think it's bad to do but, the QD may or may not provide a bit more lubrication than the shampoo.

Even better than NXT wash, I've been told that #00 Hit-Tech Wash works great and is the choice of many professionals for clay lubrication.

RP

[alteregopo]

Originally posted by Rockpick
Sorry for taking so long to respond but I've been absolutely swamped with work and life...

I don't think that's a bad plan (although, again, I can't attest for the P21S as I haven't used it). Depending on your swirls, #81 may have enough kick to take some of the very fine swirls off but, I have a hunch that you'll probably get a better result utilizing both the #9 and #81.

Feel free to ask more if needed!

RP

wut do u mean by utilizing both # 9 and #81?
u meant.. mix them and put them on the car?

is there any need to use the cleaner wax?
or should i just keep the list as it is

Po

[Rockpick]

Originally posted by alteregopo
wut do u mean by utilizing both # 9 and #81?
u meant.. mix them and put them on the car?

is there any need to use the cleaner wax?
or should i just keep the list as it is

Po

No. Don't mix the products as they're individually designed to deal with varying levels of scratching and imperfections.

Let me clarify.

Utilizing the method that you described above, I'd clay the vehicle, utilize the touch-up paint, #9, step back and analyze the finish again...

Specifically, I'd look for signs of remaining swirls and also any areas that were seemingly untouched by the #9. At this point, I'd analyze the finish and re-apply #9 if needed. Next, I'd apply a full coat of #81. This will deal with very minor (I stress 'very minor') remaining swirls as it does contain a very small degree of abrasives. Again, analyze the surface. Are there tiny swirls remaining? If so, another coat of #81 may be necessary.

Finally, not knowing about P21S, I'd apply your first coat of NXT.

You mentioned a cleaner wax in your last post. I'm assuming that P21S is a cleaner wax? My personal opinion is that you probably wouldn't need to utilze one as you're doing a pretty thourough job of dealing with paint imperfections by using the #9 followed by the #81 but, it certainly wouldn't hurt anything.

I'm sorry to have confused you. Does that clarify a little bit?
--RP

[Rockpick]

Originally posted by FlaresideLariat
After claying,

1. MUST you always follow up with something?

2. Also, MUST you always wax after you clay?

3. How often do you clay?

4. Is it OK to just follow up claying with a polish, and not wax?

Hey FlaresideLariat!

To answer your questions in order:

1. At a minimum, I'd follow up with some level of surface protection. The reason I say this is because the particles of 'stuff' that you've removed from the surface of the vehicle probably brought along any 'sacraficial coating' (ie: wax) along with them as they were pulled off by the clay. Hence, those areas are now unprotected.

Also, clay will, at a minimum, remove some degree of surface protection all over as it is minimally abrasive to the surface. Again, this is another reason to follow with something that can protect the surface.

2. See #1.

3. Check out this thread where someone asked precisely the same question.

4. Sure. It's fine to follow with a polish but, you must remember that a polish will not provide much protection at all. It's not designed to. That's why it's important to follow up with some type of wax in order to sacrifice itself to make sure your paint doesn't become a victim. That's all wax really is; a sacrificial layer that gives itself in order to protect your paint.

I hope that helps out a bit. Feel free to ask any other questions that you may have!!

RP

[alteregopo]

Originally posted by Rockpick
No. Don't mix the products as they're individually designed to deal with varying levels of scratching and imperfections.

Let me clarify.

Utilizing the method that you described above, I'd clay the vehicle, utilize the touch-up paint, #9, step back and analyze the finish again...

Specifically, I'd look for signs of remaining swirls and also any areas that were seemingly untouched by the #9. At this point, I'd analyze the finish and re-apply #9 if needed. Next, I'd apply a full coat of #81. This will deal with very minor (I stress 'very minor') remaining swirls as it does contain a very small degree of abrasives. Again, analyze the surface. Are there tiny swirls remaining? If so, another coat of #81 may be necessary.

Finally, not knowing about P21S, I'd apply your first coat of NXT.

You mentioned a cleaner wax in your last post. I'm assuming that P21S is a cleaner wax? My personal opinion is that you probably wouldn't need to utilze one as you're doing a pretty thourough job of dealing with paint imperfections by using the #9 followed by the #81 but, it certainly wouldn't hurt anything.

I'm sorry to have confused you. Does that clarify a little bit?
--RP

No, when i metioned about Cleaner Wax, i was referring to Mother's Cleaner wax

Anyways, i have changed my list a bit,
i am no longer buying the expensive P21S
i am just gonna use S100 as a replacement

What is the real purpose of Mirror Glaze Hand Polish?
or just polish in general!

I've heard that Polymer Wax does not last as long as Canauba Wax. That's is why i am applying coat(s) of S100(Canauba Wax) before NXT. is my idea correct?
Po


1.Clay Magic
2.Touch-Up Paint
3.Meguiars Swirl Remover. #9
4.Meguiar Hand Polish. #81
5.S100
6.Meguiars NXT

[jfelbab]

Originally posted by alteregopo
...I've heard that Polymer Wax does not last as long as Canauba Wax. That's is why i am applying coat(s) of S100(Canauba Wax) before NXT. is my idea correct?
Po


1.Clay Magic
2.Touch-Up Paint
3.Meguiars Swirl Remover. #9
4.Meguiar Hand Polish. #81
5.S100
6.Meguiars NXT

I don't believe you are correct. Polymers last longer than carnaubas in my experience. This is especially true in very hot weather. Carnauba softens in heat and can even evaporate if the surface gets really hot. Many who want the carnauba look put it on top of a polymer. So in your case I'd flip steps #5 and #6.

[Cam]

Originally posted by jfelbab
So in your case I'd flip steps #5 and #6.

I would too. Also, if you want to replace the S100 with a similar (but more durable and less expensive) carnauba, you might try this stuff over top of the NXT.