New Paint Job HELP

[Elk]

My 1972 El Camino has a brand new paint job and has been garaged for the past 30 days while the paint cures. My painter indicated after 30 days I'm to apply several good coats of carnauba wax to the paint before driving it or exposing it to the elements. The "Elk" also has a black vinyl top and tonneau cover for the bed. The top and cover are not new but are in very good shape.
Please help me select the Meguiar's products to start protecting this paint properly from the beginning and to keep it in good shape. I'd also like to know how to keep the vinyl top and cover in good shape.
Also, I'm interested in using a machine for waxing and upkeep. Do I want the Electric Dual Action Polisher with this new paint job or is the Meguiar's Cordless Orbital Buffer more appropriate for new paint? Which Meguiar's products work best with machine application?

I really want to start this paint job out right and to be able to properly maintain it.

Thanks,

Don

[Murr1525]

Have you noticed any defects or anyting out in the sunlight, or under a lamp? Swirls, or anything? Or is it looking pretty perfect starting off?

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Don,

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

We can help you to maintain the new paint job on your El Camino; I think what Mur1525 is alluding to is that before starting out waxing it you should probably inspect the paint in bright light to start with.

We're not dissing your painter but we see a lot of people come to the forum with a new car or a new paint job asking how to remove the swirls.

For example, if you type gross swirls into the search function in the gallery below,

http://meguiarsonline.com/gallery/

You'll pull up pictures of this Mercedes-Benz with a brand new paint job.




We also used this in a write-up on how to remove swirls by hand.


How To Remove Swirls By Hand


If you've inspected the finish in good lighting and you're happy withe the way the paint looks then you can choose any Meguiar's wax and get great results.

Is this a daily driver or a show truck?


A lot of people like Gold Class, NXT Tech Wax, M26 Hi Tech Yellow Wax and now our new M21 Synthetic Sealant.

What are the Differences Between Meguiar's Waxes


We would recommend starting out reading Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle , which will go over a lot of great information to start with.

You might also want to read this to get a good understanding as to why your painter told you to wait 30 days before waxing.


Paint Needs to Breathe

[Elk]

Originally posted by Murr1525
Have you noticed any defects or anyting out in the sunlight, or under a lamp? Swirls, or anything? Or is it looking pretty perfect starting off?

Murr,
Well... it looks pretty good to me but I have not yet had it out in the bright light for a thorough inspection.
I take it if there are swirls then It'll need polishing before waxing.

[Elk]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
Hi Don,

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

We can help you to maintain the new paint job on your El Camino; I think what Mur1525 is alluding to is that before starting out waxing it you should probably inspect the paint in bright light to start with.

We're not dissing your painter but we see a lot of people come to the forum with a new car or a new paint job asking how to remove the swirls.

For example, if you type gross swirls into the search function in the gallery below,

http://meguiarsonline.com/gallery/

You'll pull up pictures of this Mercedes-Benz with a brand new paint job.


We also used this in a write-up on how to remove swirls by hand.


How To Remove Swirls By Hand


If you've inspected the finish in good lighting and you're happy withe the way the paint looks then you can choose any Meguiar's wax and get great results.

Is this a daily driver or a show truck?


A lot of people like Gold Class, NXT Tech Wax, M26 Hi Tech Yellow Wax and now our new M21 Synthetic Sealant.

What are the Differences Between Meguiar's Waxes


We would recommend starting out reading Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle , which will go over a lot of great information to start with.

You might also want to read this to get a good understanding as to why your painter told you to wait 30 days before waxing.


Paint Needs to Breathe

Hi Mr. Phillips!

OK, I'm beginning to get a feel for this.
I need to wait until I can determine if there are swirls before following the polish step in the 5 step process. Makes sense to me!

No, this is no show truck. I'll be driving it.

Thanks for the "What are the Differences Between Meguiar's Waxes" link. I see a couple of carnauba wax products there that look good.
I've decided to wax by hand for about six months to make sure the paint is well set *before* I get one of the machines to work with.

I don't clearly understand if the Electric Dual Action Polisher can also be used for waxing or if the Cordless Orbital Buffer is more appropriate for that job. I want to be sure and use the right tool when I finally go that route.

BTW, my painter mentioned #7. I've looked on your site but not been able to find out about that product. What the heck is it?

Thanks for taking the time to help me learn.

Don

[Tim Lingor]

Hi Don,

I would strongly encourage you purchase the G100 as it will have the power to do minor paint correction as well as applying and removing waxes or sealants.

The cordless polisher works great for someone that is at a show and wants to add a quick coat of wax or a pure polish for that little extra "pop". However, once the detailing bug sets in, you will be detailing quite often! Therefore the G100 is a better choice.

Tim

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Elk
I don't clearly understand if the Electric Dual Action Polisher can also be used for waxing or if the Cordless Orbital Buffer is more appropriate for that job. I want to be sure and use the right tool when I finally go that route.

The dual action polisher is very easy to use and always produces better results than you can achieve by hand. I think this little girl in the picture is 10 and this was the first time she used a machine to work on a car.



Here she is removing wax using a microfiber bonnet on a dry foam pad.

BTW, my painter mentioned #7. I've looked on your site but not been able to find out about that product. What the heck is it?

Thanks for taking the time to help me learn.

Don

M0716 Show Car Glaze is a non-abrasive pure polish that was introduced in the 1930's and painters have been recommending it for over 70 years for their customers to use on fresh paint.

Here's sample of #7 from over the years...






Originally it was called Sealer & Reseal Glaze but the name was changed in the late 80's or early 90's to reflect, (no pun intended), what the product is most often used for and that is to give paint a wet or glazed appearance for show or display...



It's completely safe for uncured, or fresh paint. Pick up some soft foam applicator pads or some of our microfiber covered Even Coat Applicators and apply a thin coat and then wipe it off. Pure polishes like the #7 don't need to dry, so after you apply it and work it in a little, simply wipe off any excess and move to the next panel.

Use thin coats also, thick coats just waste product and are hard to wipe off.

[Elk]

Originally posted by 2hotford
Hi Don,

I would strongly encourage you purchase the G100 as it will have the power to do minor paint correction as well as applying and removing waxes or sealants.

The cordless polisher works great for someone that is at a show and wants to add a quick coat of wax or a pure polish for that little extra "pop". However, once the detailing bug sets in, you will be detailing quite often! Therefore the G100 is a better choice.

Tim

Hi Tim.

Thanks for that feedback. I'll be getting the G100 for sure.
OK, now I'm getting excited!

...or is that the detailing bug beginning to bite?

[Tim Lingor]

Hi Don,

I think you have been bitten already!

Tim

[Elk]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
The dual action polisher is very easy to use and always produces better results than you can achieve by hand. I think this little girl in the picture is 10 and this was the first time she used a machine to work on a car.

Wow. This forum is amazing. The Meguiar's line of products is massive and a little bit confusing for folks just getting into detailing their vehicles. Thanks to the quality feed back, I'm feeling much better about getting started!

Recommendations aside, I really like what's being said about the dual action polisher in other threads. I'm getting one for sure.
I guess my only hesitation is using it on fresh paint.

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
M0716 Show Car Glaze is a non-abrasive pure polish that was introduced in the 1930's and painters have been recommending it for over 70 years for their customers to use on fresh paint.

...

Originally it was called Sealer & Reseal Glaze but the name was changed in the late 80's or early 90's to reflect, (no pun intended), what the product is most often used for and that is to give paint a wet or glazed appearance for show or display...

It's completely safe for uncured, or fresh paint. Pick up some soft foam applicator pads or some of our microfiber covered Even Coat Applicators and apply a thin coat and then wipe it off. Pure polishes like the #7 don't need to dry, so after you apply it and work it in a little, simply wipe off any excess and move to the next panel.

Use thin coats also, thick coats just waste product and are hard to wipe off.

Great Info! Using "#7" polish on new paint sounds like a tradition. Guess I'll be keeping it.
So by using the M0716 Show Car Glaze product ('ole #7), I'm using a *pure polish* which is intended to create shine and gloss. A GOOD THING for fresh paint!
It's the cleaner/polishes that are used for removing swirls and light scratches.

I'm learning LOTS here guys! Thanks so much.

Don

[Elk]

So...
I've ordered the G100a, an array of applicators, pads, towels, a selection of DA foam pads and bonnets. On hand I have some car wash and conditioner, 'Ole #7 pure polish and some Hi-Tech 26 Carnauba wax. I even ordered that awesome Grit Guard dual bucket system. This weekend, the fresh paint on the Elk-amino will be ready for its first wash, polish and wax.

After much reading it seems that the paint swirls everybody deals with actually occur during the washing step.

So, I'll be using the 2 bucket method for washing, but are there other washing tips anyone has to prevent swirls? Am I not supposed to wash in a circular motion?
Now that I read this it sounds like kind of a stupid question, but I'd like to know as much as possible about how to PREVENT swirls.

Don

[Murr1525]

Well, in order to prevent swirls while washing, definatley use the 2-bucket system. Yo ucan put a Grit Guard in just the rinse water bucket, or even one in each.

Of course using high quality wash mit/sponge is important, and good towels, like the Water Magnet, which I love.

[Accumulator]

Elk- It's all about moving abrasive dirt off the paint without pressing it *into* the paint. Simple concept, but difficult to actualize.

Get a

[edited for commercial link and phone number. Please refer to MOL Forum Rules. Thanks; 2hotford]

Use it to provide constant lubrication and flushing of the surface. I even put the nozzle inside my mitts (only works with chenille and MF). You only touch the surface of the paint with enough force to dislodge the dirt (let the foam carry it away), which is hardly any at all.

I use it in addition to the two-bucket method, but you'll find that hardly *any* dirt ends up in the rinse bucket. Use plenty of mitts, I replace mine with a fresh one if there's any chance some dirt has stuck to it.

For firmly-adhered dirt (like you can get in the winter) I blast the foam through the bristles of a soft boar's hair brush, gently touching the tips of the bristles against the paint (*NOT* wiping with it, which would drag the dirt across the paint). The bristles dislodge the dirt and the foam carries it away.

Meguiar's #62 works great with this device, and provides plenty of lubrication.

I've been able to basically eliminate marring removal/abrasive polishing from my detailing by washing with the foamgun; I'm disappointed if I have to polish out any marring even after a nasty Ohio winter. E.g., other than the occasional (nonwash-related) RIDS, I haven't polished my S8 since Spring of '04, and I inspect it for marring under five different light sources and with magnification. Even the family beater remains swirl-free indefinately.

This is the single most significant change in my detailing since forever, more so than using machines to polish. I'd never wash without one.

[Murr1525]

Is that foam gun similar to the idea of the Karcher one? Does this just go on a regular hose?

Karcher Foam Gun


Would be nice if you got good results from just a hose.

[Accumulator]

Murr1525- Depends on how you use it. If you use it for a presoak or a "touchless wash" then they'll work about the same. If you want to do what I'm doing, with the foam going right at the point where wash media (mitt/brush/etc.) meets the paint then I think you'll need to use the one I use.

It's plenty unwieldy enough (removing the pistol grip helps a lot) as it is, I can't imagine holding the Karcher one in one hand and a mitt in the other and doing the roof/hood of a vehicle. For one thing my arms aren't long enough. Also, my Karchers have always taken a little effort to control just from the "recoil" of the pressure they put out and with my method you need complete control to avoid having problems.

Plus, I'm always washing "up close" where I can keep an eye out for any contamination that might be especially troublesome. I literally check out every inch of paint before, during, and after its getting washed. If I notice a bit of contamination that looks very gritty/abrasive I might only wash a tiny little area before cleaning out or replacing my mitt (don't want to *ever* drag such stuff across the paint). Standing back enough to use the Karcher foamer wouldn't work for me.

Don't take any of the preceding as a bash of the Karcher foamer. IMO it's a great accessory for a pressure washer, just not the tool I'd use for this job.

Yeah, this one mounts on the end of the hose and only uses the normal water pressure, though I have a booster pump at my place so my regular water pressure is pretty good.

Didn't mean to hijack Elk's thread just because he opened the door by asking how to avoid marring his new finish Foamguns and the techniques for using them can take up lengthy threads all on their own...