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Jeff's 300-C Project

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  • #1

    Jeff's 300-C Project

    A co-worker has a 300-C he wants me to work up for him. I was planning on doing up a full 5 Step on it. I think it's about 8 months old and likely just has an assortment of self induced swirl at this point.

    Here is the problem. Last week he asked me to pick him up at the autobody shop and give him a ride home. I did and found that he had apparently decided to take out a mailbox with the right side of the car. Nice assortment of dents and scratches down the passenger side. The shop says it will be ready tomorrow.

    Anyway, the 5 step plan goes out the window. I told him to ask the body shop techs how long to wait before we clay , clean polish. I am sure they are going to say 90 days. I also told him to get me the name and number for the tech as well.

    Anyway. I figured I would put out a post and see what others have done in situations like this. Are there things I can do to the finish to protect it through the winter or would I be best off just telling him to call me in the Spring? BTW, It is Garaged kept and he does have an alternate vehicle.

    I would at least like to be able to point him to a good car wash & car wash method and a good QD that would pose the least risk in this situation. If I can safely do more, I would ike to consider it.

    Any thoughts would help clue me in. Thanks a heap.
    Jeff Smith

    Don't mistake my enthusiasm for experience.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Correct me if I'm wrong but I think I remember mike saying that #21 is safe to use over a fresh paint, it still allows the solvents to vent. So If this is true, I'd clean it gently and use some #21, then do a complete detail in the spring.

    Comment

    • #3
      I would use speed glaze. I believe it has a some protection and still helps the paint breathe. For qd, you would probably want to use FI since its also body shop safe.

      Heres where I found out 80 has some protection.

      http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...light=%2A66%2A

      Comment

      • #4
        Originally posted by probegt
        I would use speed glaze. I believe it has a some protection and still helps the paint breathe. For qd, you would probably want to use FI since its also body shop safe.

        Heres where I found out 80 has some protection.

        http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...light=%2A66%2A
        Agreed. #80 and #34 for the gold medal.

        As for a car wash soap, I'd steer him to #00 until the 90 days is up (in which case he can switch over to NXT soap).

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by Shiny Lil Detlr
          Agreed. #80 and #34 for the gold medal.

          As for a car wash soap, I'd steer him to #00 until the 90 days is up (in which case he can switch over to NXT soap).
          I am a little skiddish on going with any polish at this time. This would be my first attempt at working on fresh paint so I would not want to go above where my comfort level is with my limited experience.

          So with you folks' suggesting the #80. What Apply with the PC and a 9006 pad? I have to admit I am very leary about hitting this with a polish at this point. I'd love to be able to just get a tad of protection on it without using a polish.

          The FI and 00 are doable. I have enough of each to get him started until he can order his own as I have no PBEs local to us.
          Jeff Smith

          Don't mistake my enthusiasm for experience.

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by Jeff Smith
            I am a little skiddish on going with any polish at this time. This would be my first attempt at working on fresh paint so I would not want to go above where my comfort level is with my limited experience.

            So with you folks' suggesting the #80. What Apply with the PC and a 9006 pad? I have to admit I am very leary about hitting this with a polish at this point. I'd love to be able to just get a tad of protection on it without using a polish.

            The FI and 00 are doable. I have enough of each to get him started until he can order his own as I have no PBEs local to us.
            Jeff, don't worry about the #80. It is a relatively mild polish, and it has glazes in it to add protection. If the body shop was even half competent, it should be fine to polish. Remember this paint was sanded and rotary compounded by the body shop before he took delivery of the car, so your PC with #80 is nothing by comparison. I'd even just stick to an 8006 pad.

            Now if you wanted to add even more protection on top of that, you could add an additional coat (or coats) of #5 or #7 with a 9006 pad.

            I don't know if you've seen the "How to remove paint defects" video or not, but it also specifies #80 as being safe and recommended for bodyshop fresh paint.

            Comment

            • #7
              In the autumn of '04 I had a fresh repaint (RM brand b/c) that was too soft for #80; this was over a week after the paint was sprayed. The initial cut of the #80 caused micromarring and as it broke down it was unable to remove this marring. It was a classic case of an initially-too-aggressive product, but the sort of thing you just *never* get with #80 :nixweiss

              It was a lesson- that with fresh paint you have to proceed carefully. Usually, I myself only remove *seriously* bothersome marring while the paint is fresh. It'll almost certainly need another polish after it's finished curing anyhow, so I just wait until then if I can, using #5 at every wash in the meantime. But any major correction is easier to do before the paint finishes hardening, so see if there's anything that really bugs you and at least improve it now.
              Practical Perfectionist

              Comment

              • #8
                Originally posted by Accumulator
                In the autumn of '04 I had a fresh repaint (RM brand b/c) that was too soft for #80; this was over a week after the paint was sprayed. The initial cut of the #80 caused micromarring and as it broke down it was unable to remove this marring. It was a classic case of an initially-too-aggressive product, but the sort of thing you just *never* get with #80 :nixweiss

                It was a lesson- that with fresh paint you have to proceed carefully. Usually, I myself only remove *seriously* bothersome marring while the paint is fresh. It'll almost certainly need another polish after it's finished curing anyhow, so I just wait until then if I can, using #5 at every wash in the meantime. But any major correction is easier to do before the paint finishes hardening, so see if there's anything that really bugs you and at least improve it now.
                Wow.... that's odd. I don't think I've ever seen paint that soft; but then all I've ever dealt with in terms of fresh paint has been PPG applied to GM vehicles and baked on. Those are by nature extremely hard paints.

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