blending different meguiar's products together?

[Hannibal]

I had the #80 dry buff issue last week. After reading several hundred posts, I am not the only one who experienced this. It seems no matter how much you saave on, it goes dry very fast. I didnt continue buffing after it ran dry, but the product dried very very quickly , in under one minute with a PC. So I used #83 and that worked much longer because of the oils I suppose. I kind of need something for a few small spots that require something more aggressive, but not big enough to need a rotary.

I was thinking of taking 16oz or so of #80 (as a base) adding 4oz #83 to reduce the dryness problem and lastly add 4oz Scratch-x. I would use this custom blend for the tough areas with the PC. Basically I want the features of scratch-X withought the backache. So I would follow something like this:

4-parts #80
1-part #83
1-part scratch-x

PS** My truck looks very very nice after using the products. I just need something for the tough spots, VS having to go over them 5 times with one product, and having a headache trying to remove the #80.

Any thoughts? Will the products mix and blend well? Are they similar in composition (mike?) ?

Thanks!!

[gb387]

I won't be of much help.... if I remember right meguiars does not recommend mixing. Its touched on from time to time, only mixing I do is Gold Class Wash and NXT Wash, in this case I have not found any benefit.

[Hannibal]

hmmmm. I remember someone used scratch-x on a PC but only after his pad was loaded or primed with another glaze or something. I am very close to getting a rotary for the job at hand: A very neglected silver 93 subaru.

[gb387]

Originally posted by Hannibal
hmmmm. I remember someone used scratch-x on a PC but only after his pad was loaded or primed with another glaze or something. I am very close to getting a rotary for the job at hand: A very neglected silver 93 subaru.

Yes, some say ScratchX will "gum up" via PC others seem to have good luck!?!?

[gb387]

One more thing, maybe you have done this but: Try searching for "Mixing Products" there are a few that pop up, might get some others results. I know there were some mixes posted, but its been a long time since I have seen the posts, maybe even over a year ago!?!?

[Jeff Smith]

Re: blending different meguiar's products together?

Originally posted by Hannibal
I had the #80 dry buff issue last week. After reading several hundred posts, I am not the only one who experienced this. It seems no matter how much you saave on, it goes dry very fast. I didnt continue buffing after it ran dry, but the product dried very very quickly , in under one minute with a PC. So I used #83 and that worked much longer because of the oils I suppose. I kind of need something for a few small spots that require something more aggressive, but not big enough to need a rotary.

I was thinking of taking 16oz or so of #80 (as a base) adding 4oz #83 to reduce the dryness problem and lastly add 4oz Scratch-x. I would use this custom blend for the tough areas with the PC. Basically I want the features of scratch-X withought the backache. So I would follow something like this:

4-parts #80
1-part #83
1-part scratch-x

PS** My truck looks very very nice after using the products. I just need something for the tough spots, VS having to go over them 5 times with one product, and having a headache trying to remove the #80.

Any thoughts? Will the products mix and blend well? Are they similar in composition (mike?) ?

Thanks!!

I doubt it will hurt anything, but IMHO, I think you would get more benefit without doing this. I say this because of these diminishing abrasives. It doesn't matter how fast or slow the product drys. The abrasives will still diminish at the same rate. Working these products after the abrasives have worked their way down to a fine pont won't do anything for these spots that need attention except to act like a pure polish on them. My undestanding is that you want to keep the product wetter longer. That would be great for a product without the diminishing abrasives but I have a feeling if properly applied and worked the product does not dry up until about the time the abrasives have done their job anyway. So trying to keep them wet for further polishing will likely not be very effective.

This is only my opinion. If I am wrong I am sure I am soon to be corrected.

[Hannibal]

The thing is, I cant even work the 80 down enough to break it up. It dries thats my problem It is very hard to remove and feels like im making swirlies while trying to remove. I just thought If I added a little pure polish or something that it would be a little more "wet", thus letting me work it to the desired "break down" or diminished abrasives.

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

I am a little perplexed. Meguiar's #80 Speed Glaze usually stays "wetter" longer than most. In fact, it is the one I usually recommend to those just starting out with a rotary.

Meg's #80 can gum up, or appear to dry if the pad you are using has become over saturated with product. You will get patches of product on the paint that is a real bear to remove. If that is the case, you will need to clean the pad or in many cases, switch to a clean pad. Make sure you have not used the pad for other products. One pad per product. Finally make sure that you really shake the bottle well. If that does not do it after trying the above, please let us know.

As for mixing products, that is not recommended. Each product is designed for a particular purpose and use. By mixing products you are altering the product from its intended purpose and composition. Further, all diminishing abrasives are not the same. As such some products are designed to be buffed longer, ie. products for the rotary buffer etc.... It is best to use a product as intended. I am not saying that it may not work. What I am saying is Meg's can not predict the results if the products are not used as intended.

Cheers!
Tim

[dakota kid]

Hello there, I have had some problems with Speed Glaze gumming
up using a rotary buffer even at low speeds. At times not all the time. I haven't encountered this problem with my poter cable. Mist your pad with some Final Inspection.

[Hannibal]

I have some Quik detailer, is that ok for a pad primer?

[Don]

Originally posted by Hannibal
I have some Quik detailer, is that ok for a pad primer?

When you wet the pad with anything like QD, water, etc, it seems to increase the abrasiveness of the product by interfering with the buffering oils. Maybe this will help your problem, just try it at yiour own risk... it doesn't take very much liquid at all to dramatically affect the buffing properties of the #80 series products (been there, done that) ONE full trigger pull of the QD is actually way too much. (Too, adding liquid increases dusting by at least 10X easily)

I'm also one of the ones who's had good luck using Scratch-X via PC...of course I'm only doing small areas at a time, and using very little product...a half-dozen or so M&M sized blobs (plain, not peanut ) on the pad

I use a finishing (Lake Country-black) pad and keep the PC at speeds of 3.5 and above, starting with almost no pressure until the Scratch-X is spread around, then increasing pressure and speed until it's worked in properly. I've found that as long as I don't use too much, and clean the pad (spur w/a soft brush) frequently, there are no gumming issues. I also don't do this very often, only IF I have a lot of defects that don't really require anything heavier, but are too large (for my lazy butt) to spend the amount of time it would take to do properly by hand.