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need advice on a quickie

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  • need advice on a quickie

    I just back from one of my coffee trips up at the Sheetz store. One of the ladys that works there has been after me for a few months to work her car up. I have been trying to avoid this as she lives on a dirt road and does not even make an attempt at any routine care.

    She will drive through the local Car Wash periodically and thats about it. I asked her when the last time she waxed it was and she said they were supposed to wax it at the delaership when she bought it. Uh, it's a '98! Anyway, I think you get my point.

    Well, tonight I put my foot in my mouth and volunteered to put a quick coat of wax on it for her. It's cold now so I don't plan to Clay, Clean or Polish. A simple coat of cleaner wax is all I am going to do.

    I don't have that much experience with our cleaner waxes as yet. I do have A-12 in Liquid and Paste as well as #66 in house. I also have #20 but figure one of the first 2 listed would be better for this unkept car.

    I assume in this instance the better product of the 2 listed above would be the #66. I'll be applying with the PC and removing with the PC.

    I just wanted to put out a post to kind of look for a confirmation I am making the right choice between the 2 products.

    Any advice would be most welcome.
    Jeff Smith

    Don't mistake my enthusiasm for experience.

  • #2
    Jeff, I'd use M66 if it was my job to do.

    Sounds as if anything you do will help her vehicle. 66 will clean more than A12 and it does leave a nice shine. We used M66 on low paying jobs for dealers who just wanted some shine on a car they were going to wholesale.

    Jobs like this one might not seem glamorous, but it's all some people think detailing involves.
    See the big picture, enjoy the details

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Pete-FWA
      Jeff, I'd use M66 if it was my job to do.

      Sounds as if anything you do will help her vehicle. 66 will clean more than A12 and it does leave a nice shine. We used M66 on low paying jobs for dealers who just wanted some shine on a car they were going to wholesale.

      Jobs like this one might not seem glamorous, but it's all some people think detailing involves.
      I figured as much. Just wanted to bouce it off someone else. I am doing this for free as a favor. She gives me free coffee all the time. But. I am not putting a major effort into it. I'll make her come and help and she can do windows, trim etc. She can do the inside herself. Thanks for confirming my suspicion.
      Jeff Smith

      Don't mistake my enthusiasm for experience.

      Comment


      • #4
        I agree with the other poster, M66 is definitely the best choice for this situation. Personally I'd say you should try out a rotary as well, but that probably isn't an option for you at this point. Even the "cheap" $40-50 Chicago Electric models from Harbor Freight have the potential to do a better job (more aggressive) than the G100.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Shiny Lil Detlr
          I agree with the other poster, M66 is definitely the best choice for this situation. Personally I'd say you should try out a rotary as well, but that probably isn't an option for you at this point. Even the "cheap" $40-50 Chicago Electric models from Harbor Freight have the potential to do a better job (more aggressive) than the G100.
          Well, I have the makita sitting here. Use it as a dedicated PAD DRYER right now. I have not put it to work on a finish as yet. Have an old Geo in the driveway I have been meaniing to get to for practice. But now that the cold is moving in I am not sure if I want to get started on it or not. I might have to start looking for a short warm trend.
          Jeff Smith

          Don't mistake my enthusiasm for experience.

          Comment


          • #6
            Ah, gotcha. I use my CE for a similar purpose, though it does see action on finishes somewhat often, too. I think I'm about at the point where I'll need to think about investing in a makita, though. I've fallen in love with the bail handle on my current machine and don't want to break away from it.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Shiny Lil Detlr
              Ah, gotcha. I use my CE for a similar purpose, though it does see action on finishes somewhat often, too. I think I'm about at the point where I'll need to think about investing in a makita, though. I've fallen in love with the bail handle on my current machine and don't want to break away from it.
              My Makita actually came with the Bail "&" a Side handle. After reading the posts here I thought it was only a choice of one or the other. I ordered through a local Lumber Supply place who ordered it direct from Makita. It was the 9227. But I forget the letter designator.
              Jeff Smith

              Don't mistake my enthusiasm for experience.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Shiny Lil Detlr
                ... I've fallen in love with the bail handle on my current machine ...
                Besides the Makita 9227, the Porter-Cable 7428 and Hitachi SP18VA also have bale handles available.




                PC.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by the other pc
                  Besides the Makita 9227, the Porter-Cable 7428 and Hitachi SP18VA also have bale handles available.




                  PC.
                  Ah... from what I'd read, I guess I thought the Makita was the only one with that; the others being "DeWalt DW849" style....

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Using the cleaner wax on a scratched an neglected finish will look good for a few days, but then the scratches really start showing up "white" pretty badly. I did my GF's car 3 weeks ago by hand (DC#1, cleaner wax) and it is better but the small scratches are now MORE noticeable from the wax inside the scratches. I am going to try the G100 soon on it.

                    Good luck!!
                    http://img73.imageshack.us/img73/546...mallgz2.th.jpg

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Hannibal
                      Using the cleaner wax on a scratched an neglected finish will look good for a few days, but then the scratches really start showing up "white" pretty badly. I did my GF's car 3 weeks ago by hand (DC#1, cleaner wax) and it is better but the small scratches are now MORE noticeable from the wax inside the scratches. I am going to try the G100 soon on it.

                      Good luck!!
                      Hmm, good to know. The only Cleaner Wax I have used thus far is #66 on an old beater I have in the driveway. I just wanted to slap some protection on it until I get around to using it for rotary practice. I have not noticed any scratches showing up worse than before but I really don't pay much attention to it. I keep getting tied up doing other cars. I need to get off my butt and put the Rotary to work and get that experince under my belt. I am sure I am missing out.

                      Originally posted by the other pc
                      Besides the Makita 9227, the Porter-Cable 7428 and Hitachi SP18VA also have bale handles available.


                      PC.
                      Yep, I was surprised when I opened my 9227 box and "both" handles were inside. I don;t know if they are doing that with all newer models now or what.
                      Jeff Smith

                      Don't mistake my enthusiasm for experience.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        hello -- please allow me to jump in and mention that i have a 2001 minivan that has never been waxed -- i tried nxt liquid on the hood this summer thinking that there was not that much contamination -- WRONG -- the results were not what i was expecting -- what i was expecting was smooth like glass or silk -- anyway -- i'm waxing by hand and i'm looking for some suggestions besides clay(not ready to try clay yet) -- i want to get my minivan's finish in the same condition as my suv -- SMOOOTH -- oh yeah -- i do have a bottle of cleaner wax A1216 --

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by a2z13
                          hello -- please allow me to jump in and mention that i have a 2001 minivan that has never been waxed -- i tried nxt liquid on the hood this summer thinking that there was not that much contamination -- WRONG -- the results were not what i was expecting -- what i was expecting was smooth like glass or silk -- anyway -- i'm waxing by hand and i'm looking for some suggestions besides clay(not ready to try clay yet) -- i want to get my minivan's finish in the same condition as my suv -- SMOOOTH -- oh yeah -- i do have a bottle of cleaner wax A1216 --
                          Here is a suggestion for you. You hop in your minivan and bring it down here to Lexington park and let's have some fun.

                          Editing here: If you have a garage, I'll come to you. We'll use my gear and supplies. You get to feed me. I will work for FOOD!
                          Jeff Smith

                          Don't mistake my enthusiasm for experience.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Which handle design is best for you is really a personal preference but I thought I would just chime in and add that once in a while I find myself in a posistion buffing on a car where I don't want any handle on the rotary buffer and with my stick handle I can quickly remove it, not so with the bail handle.

                            FWIW
                            Mike Phillips
                            760-515-0444
                            showcargarage@gmail.com

                            "Find something you like and use it often"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Mike Phillips
                              Which handle design is best for you is really a personal preference but I thought I would just chime in and add that once in a while I find myself in a posistion buffing on a car where I don't want any handle on the rotary buffer and with my stick handle I can quickly remove it, not so with the bail handle.

                              FWIW
                              When I break out the Rotary and start practicing, I hope to practice without a handle to start off with. Use the handles on an as needed basis more of an aide for awkward situations.
                              Jeff Smith

                              Don't mistake my enthusiasm for experience.

                              Comment

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