What about these water spots?? With PICS

[00GREENMACHINE]

Guys, are these water spots too bad to be taken out. I have some rubbing compound and a pc but I am really afraid to do the whole hood.





There are pic of my hood. There are some on the roof and trunk lid. If you are in N.C. and think you can get these out I would be willing to pay. I dont have a yellow pad I have a orange which I thought would be enought cut with ssr 2.5. I am pretty sure I have also tried dacp with the orange pad too.

[00GREENMACHINE]

28 views and not 1 reply

[LiquidBlack]

What have been your steps for removing the spots? Have you properly washed and dryed the vehicle? What are the water conditions like in your area? Hard, normal, soft?

You can try a paint cleaner such as Deep Crystal #1. Apply it with a foam applicator with medium pressure, then wipe off with a microfiber towel. That might do the trick.

The first time I washed my car, I used very bad technique, and thats what lead me here. I washed the car, and let it air dry. A worker for my parents pointed out that I needed to finish up by drying the car. Washed it again, dryed it, and it was all good!

[00GREENMACHINE]

I always wash and dry my cars. This car was bought like this( if I had of know I would of never gotten it.) and I figured they were only on the surface. My water should be soft because we have a 3k water softner.
I have tried a orage pad with ssr2.5 and dacp with no results. How many passes does it take for results?? I am real impaitent..

[gb387]

Have you seen this post Type 1 & Type 2 Water Spots?

Might help a little...

[LiquidBlack]

Wow, then you have a tough problem on your hands. Hopefully, though, it can be remedied.

You might want to try M80 (speed glaze) or M83 (DACP) with a W-8006 on a Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher, speeds 3-5. 15-20 lbs. of pressure, I'd guess. As many passes as necessary.

[stealth]

IMHO those spots appear to be acid rain. Slowly but surely they will be minimized if not etched thru to the color coat.

[00GREENMACHINE]

Originally posted by stealth
IMHO those spots appear to be acid rain. Slowly but surely they will be minimized if not etched thru to the color coat.

So what would you recommend??

[LiquidBlack]

Your going to have to match the depth of the etching that is on your clearcoat using a Dual Action polisher or possibly a rotary buffer.

Meet the dotted line

[stealth]

Start with the least aggresive cleaner & progress up to a stronger cleaner if needed using a DA then progressing to a rotary. I would start with Meguiars Dual Action Cleaner Polish using a DA several times. This will give you a good indicator as to your next course of action if needed. Easy does it. Don't rush. Try to save additional expenses by using some patience & discretion.

[LiquidBlack]

Pressure is also an important factor. 15-20 pounds of pressure to give yourself some cutting action.

The speed at which you do it will also be a factor. Perhaps 1 inch a second with multiple passes.

You're most likely going to need the yellow w-8000 (or w-8006) polishing pad to be able to get to those etchings. The orange finishing pad doesnt have enough power.

[00GREENMACHINE]

Originally posted by LiquidBlack
You're most likely going to need the yellow w-8000 (or w-8006) polishing pad to be able to get to those etchings. The orange finishing pad doesnt have enough power.

but why would I need a
Soft Buff® Foam Polishing Pad instead of a w7000 SOFTBUFF™ Cutting Pad??

[LiquidBlack]

Yeah, you could use the w7000 cutting pad as well. That would have much more bite than the w8000.

But, have you attempted this with the w8000? It is important that you use the least aggressive product that you can get the job done.


I may have been confused by which pad you said you had (in your first post). My thoughts were that the orange pad was the w9000 finishing pad.

[00GREENMACHINE]

Originally posted by LiquidBlack
Yeah, you could use the w7000 cutting pad as well. That would have much more bite than the w8000.

But, have you attempted this with the w8000? It is important that you use the least aggressive product that you can get the job done.


I may have been confused by which pad you said you had (in your first post). My thoughts were that the orange pad was the w9000 finishing pad.

All my pads are Lake County
black= finish
white = polish
orange = inbetween polish and cutting
yellow = cutting

Are the MEg's pads hard? The orange pad I have is hard and stiff has hell. I wonder if its bad. I have a new one thats still in shrink wrap because each one of the above pads the backing plate velco started to come off and they send me 4 new pads and I have failed yet to use them. The black is super soft and the white are alitte stiffer and then the orange is like MAN...

What do you suggest getting the residue off with I have heard people use QD and other 50/50 combo.

[LiquidBlack]

I recommend that you replace your pads with Meguiar's line of foam pads.

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.com/Meguiar's%20Professional%20Pads%20&%20Bonnets.htm

I think its time to let someone else take over from me and give some more experienced advice.