New HHR

[Foxyone]

Just picked up a new Chevy HHR on Tues and I'd like to get off on the right foot..
Up to now, Ive been using NXT wash, Clay, DC Cleaner, DC Polish and NXT all applied with the PC and removed by hand with mostly satisfactory results on the dark green Honda that is history.
The HHR is Amythest (light purple) and is metallic. I want to start with the best possible combination to provide protection from the elements as well as a deep shine.
I am in NW New Jersey and the best outside temps I can hope for is somewhere in the 40 to 50 degree range. If it would be better, I may be able to get it inside for a few hours..
Im open for suggestions!

[Jeff Smith]

Re: New HHR

Originally posted by Foxyone
Just picked up a new Chevy HHR on Tues and I'd like to get off on the right foot..
Up to now, Ive been using NXT wash, Clay, DC Cleaner, DC Polish and NXT all applied with the PC and removed by hand with mostly satisfactory results on the dark green Honda that is history.
The HHR is Amythest (light purple) and is metallic. I want to start with the best possible combination to provide protection from the elements as well as a deep shine.
I am in NW New Jersey and the best outside temps I can hope for is somewhere in the 40 to 50 degree range. If it would be better, I may be able to get it inside for a few hours..
Im open for suggestions!

Well, ahhh, hmmmm, ahhhh, hmmmm. What you did for the Honda, do for the HHR.

hehe.

Not kidding. What you were doing for the Honda was fantasitc. Looks like by the products you were using youk new exactly what to use. Your comment above says "satisfactory" results. By using the products above, if used properly, should have given you a bit more than "satisfactory" results, unless your finish was such that you should have gone more aggressive. In that case I can see why you might not have been very excited about it.

If you used those products you mention above on a new finish or nearly new finish, then I think you might want to add a little more detail as to how you were applying the products. As I would suspect there might be a flaw in your application methods.

What did you see on your Honda that made you only define this as "Satisfactory Results".

I have hit several cars here recently over the past couple of months using those exact products and the owners drove away very excited.

But either way, those products you mentioned before should bring back fantastic results on your new HHR, if used properly. The NXT should help bring out that light metal flake very well.

[Foxyone]

Jeff

The reason I said "satisfactory" is that either it was simply the car, color or my expectations. To clarify, it just didnt have any "wow factor" . On the other hand I used the same process on a black GMC Denali and the results were impressive.
Application method was 8006 pads on the PC. Removal with a 9006 pad followed by a final wipe with a MF towel.
Since this car is much lighter in color, I wasnt sure if my previous process would provide the best results.

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by Foxyone
Jeff

The reason I said "satisfactory" is that either it was simply the car, color or my expectations. To clarify, it just didnt have any "wow factor" . On the other hand I used the same process on a black GMC Denali and the results were impressive.
Application method was 8006 pads on the PC. Removal with a 9006 pad followed by a final wipe with a MF towel.
Since this car is much lighter in color, I wasnt sure if my previous process would provide the best results.

OK. I see a problem here.

Please re-check statement that you removed with a 9006 pad.

Common practice is to remove with a towel or Bonnet over a 7006 pad. Are you sure you removed with a 9006?

[Foxyone]

I get the feeling Ive totally mis-understood the purpose of a "finishing pad"
Guilty as charged....used the 9006 for removal

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by Foxyone
I get the feeling Ive totally mis-understood the purpose of a "finishing pad"
Guilty as charged....used the 9006 for removal

Ok We've learned somethinghere then. I actually though "I" was getting ready to learn something.

Please check out the following while I look for a few things for you.

Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line
Using the G-100 to remove swirls with the Professional Line

[Jeff Smith]

I use a Terry to remove cleaners and polishes and use the GC Bonnet over a 7006 Pad for removing wax. For removing the cleaners and polishes, I think most people do this by using the following:

Supreme Shine Microfiber

Supreme Shine Microfiber



Ultra Plush Super Terry

Ultra Plush Super Terry




To remove the Wax, you could either do it by hand using either one of the above products. Or, you can remove it by machine using the following recommended products. You would actually place the Bonnet "over" the 7006 pad below.

W-7006
Meguiar's W-7006 Foam Cutting Pad




Gold Class Clear Coat Safe Microfiber Bonnets

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Looks like Jeff pretty much has you covered, but I'll throw one piece of input in here (though you probably already know this):

Especially with the DC1, make sure you're "Working" the product in to the surface at a speed between 4-5, instead of just spreading it and wiping it off. My neighbor used to do DC1,2,3 via PC this way, and one day I finally got him to let me prove how much product he was wasting by not letting it break down on the surface. The difference in results is truly drastic.



Otherwise, I'd also say to try out the Mirror Glaze pro line polishes (#80, #83, etc.) for even better results.

[Jeff Smith]

Yep, I kind of suspected there was something going on here. When Foxyone was only getting satisafactory results with those products. I knew something was amiss. I am glad I probed into that a little deeper.

If FoxyOne was removing a product with a 9006 pad. I though I was getting ready learn something new. Thought I had missed something.

Glad we got that out in the open.

I have to leave now but when I get back I hope Foxyone will have replied so maybe we can get a little deeper into the methods used. If nothing else I'll throw a few links out for GP.

[Foxyone]

Lil Detlr
If I were to use the #80, do I then eliminate both the DC Cleaner and Polish and go straight ti the NXT?
Is the #80 safe and a wise choice on a "brandy new car"?

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by Foxyone
Lil Detlr
If I were to use the #80, do I then eliminate both the DC Cleaner and Polish and go straight ti the NXT?
Is the #80 safe and a wise choice on a "brandy new car"?

Until he chimes in I'll run off at the lips.

Yes you can use #80 very effectively on a brand new car. It can/will be used as a combination approach to applying both a cleaner and a polish.

[Jeff Smith]

Just something to think about here. Seeing that we already found one little weakness in your methods. How about laying out some more details about how you do things.

For example:
How much of each product do you apply to the pads?
How long do you work the product?
How is it that you know when to stop working the product?
How big of an area do you do and how long, on average does it take you to knock out that area.

Feel free to elaborate and take your time and kick out plenty of details. The more the better.

I ask these questions because, I think, you might want to make sure that you have a good grasp of how to apply the products that you have, and are used to, before trying out anything else.

At last this way we can try to make sure your methods are sound. Then if/when you do decide to switch to #80 you'll have more confidence that you are using proper methods.

[Foxyone]

Jeff
Really appreciate the "detailed" (no pun intended) service..
I break up the vehicle in panels with the hood and roof being treated as 2 panels. Fenders, door panels, rear quarters and trunk or hatch each as one. The best I can describe the quantity of product would be to liken it to icing a cinnamon bun..I work the cleaner and polish a bit more than the wax making sure Ive covered the entire surface..usually one direction then the opposite. I use separate pads for each product, I dont allow either the cleaner or polish to dry and remove the NXT when I get a clean swipe with a finger.

[Shiny Lil Detlr]

Jeez, Jeff! I guess I don't need to post anymore

Yes, #80 is absolutely safe/effective on a brand new car, and can take the place of DC1 and DC2.

I also agree with Jeff in part, that perhaps you should try some different methods before switching products. It sounds like you may still not be working the products quite enough, so I think there's some room in there for improvement.

I'll again refer to my PC use video, which I made originally to prove how safe the PC is. So ignore the fact that I'm leaning into the paint and leaving it in one spot for part of the time; but pay attention to how before/after that part of the video I'm working the product into the paint. Even though I'm using #83, the principle will be the same for #80, or DC1/DC2:

http://hahn-on-the.net/professional/detailing/pcdemo.wmv

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by Foxyone
Jeff
Really appreciate the "detailed" (no pun intended) service..
I break up the vehicle in panels with the hood and roof being treated as 2 panels. Fenders, door panels, rear quarters and trunk or hatch each as one. The best I can describe the quantity of product would be to liken it to icing a cinnamon bun..I work the cleaner and polish a bit more than the wax making sure Ive covered the entire surface..usually one direction then the opposite. I use separate pads for each product, I dont allow either the cleaner or polish to dry and remove the NXT when I get a clean swipe with a finger.

OK, everything there looks OK. One thing I want to point out here is this. Now keep in mind I am not telling you that you are doing it wrong here, but I almost want to think you might not be working the cleaners and polishes quite enough.

I'll give an example of how do my hood with the average cleaner or polish. Keep in mind that each product has it's own quirks but we are using this as an example.

I would divide my hood up into "4" sections. I do this because most folks would try to steer an amatuer into doing 2'x2' sections. I still consider myself an amatuer. Anyway, I would prime the pad by basicallly drawing an X on the pad from edge to edge, about as thick as your mouse cable. Then I would get to work. I would move in horizontal pattern first then a vertical then diagonal. In other words three directions. While doing each direction, I would overlap by about 1/2 the width of the pad. Once done in one direction I would then switch to the next direction and do the same.

I am still on the slow side with all this so for each 2'x2' section I spend about 2 -2.5 minutes before the product starts to break down. Product breakdown is what you need to key on. This takes a little practice. For me, still being new, product breakdown means a couple of things need to happen. "ALL" color needs to be worked out of the product. The products needs to almost look like a clear glaze or sheen on the finish. Once the above objectives have been met, It's time to stop and get it off by using a terry or MF. Then on to the next panel.

As far as your wax application, Something I have noticed from a few folks I have let use my PCs is that they want to try to work the wax into the finish. I mean they will keep buffing until there is nothing left to buff. I come over and see them doing this and explain that all they need to do is make sure the finish has wax on it. Make sure it is adequately covered then move on along. There is no need to get carried away. Sometimes it seems folks want to get the cleaning and polishing done ASAP and then work the heck out of the wax.

Anyway, there are a few more thoughts to throw at you. If you see anything you can use to add to your methods, then I have accomplished a good thing.

I really enjoy getting on here and helping others. I started a few months ago and I did not have enough hands for other people to hold. I got more help than I needed and I enjoy returning the favor. Plus, by me putting out what I do and how I do it, I now have the opportunity to let other folks more skilled than I coach me. So my helping you helps me. Hence the "Detailed" service.