If the factory paint is a single stage, then the recommended paint will be to factory specs. You may have a single stage enamel paint. That is why they didnt offer the clear coat.
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Originally posted by Hannibal
If the factory paint is a single stage, then the recommended paint will be to factory specs. You may have a single stage enamel paint. That is why they didnt offer the clear coat.
Originally posted by tguil
Been there, done that with major scratches. Your chance of making it perect are near zero. Your metallic blue simply can't be matched with a spray can or a brush. Your eyes will always go right to the repair.
to
Click the pics to enlarge.
Touch-up color match IS possible. Again, though, it IS very involved.
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Unless my eyes totally decieve me, I believe we're looking at a PT Cruiser here. That should be clearcoat paint, AFAIK.
Wanna bet? Granted it's not blue, but it's a metallic:Touch-up color match IS possible. Again, though, it IS very involved.
Do you think, Shiny Lil Detlr, there's any possibility of us doing a Vulcan mind-meld?Otherwise, I'm doubtful about succeeding in imitating your results.
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Originally posted by Richard E
Yes, it's a PT Cruiser. It's a base-coat clear-coat situation.
What a nice job!
Do you think, Shiny Lil Detlr, there's any possibility of us doing a Vulcan mind-meld?Otherwise, I'm doubtful about succeeding in imitating your results.
The good news for you is that I did that Bonneville using just the G100, no rotary work was involved. I don't think I'll have that luxury with the areas on the Olds, but we will have to wait and see.
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Looking forward to your documentation, Shiny Lil Detlr. I will read it with great interest, as I am sure many others will too. I did find an article that looks pretty thorough on paint chip repair at http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=27
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I take body shop class in school, and this scratch isn't pretty. We use Meguair's products, and we'll do everything we can before we pull out a DA.
I worked on a "Sonic Blue" 40th Aniversary Edition Mustang, the paint was almost exactly this color. someone took a razor blade to the driver side door. I didn't bother than trying to buff these scratches out, infact when I DA sanded the door, I found out most of these scratches were down to bare metal. So after we'd DA sanded, bondoed a couple of spots and primed, we started to paint.
This was the worst paint I have ever had to deal with. It took 7 coats to blend. I hope yours isn't near as bad as this was. Good luck fixin it.
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Originally posted by SiriusRIMZ
I take body shop class in school, and this scratch isn't pretty. We use Meguair's products, and we'll do everything we can before we pull out a DA.
I worked on a "Sonic Blue" 40th Aniversary Edition Mustang, the paint was almost exactly this color. someone took a razor blade to the driver side door. I didn't bother than trying to buff these scratches out, infact when I DA sanded the door, I found out most of these scratches were down to bare metal. So after we'd DA sanded, bondoed a couple of spots and primed, we started to paint.
This was the worst paint I have ever had to deal with. It took 7 coats to blend. I hope yours isn't near as bad as this was. Good luck fixin it.
Remember that factory paint/a factory finish is much more durable than any respray will EVER manage to be; so to me it seems logical that you would want to retain as much factory paint as you possibly can. Sanding things down in larger areas, and then "blending" to match the color is hardly effective at preservation.
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Hi, I don't have a rotary or DACP.
I do have the PC dual action polisher, #80, Scratch-X. The pads are the usual 8006 and 9006, 6.5" Softbuff Foam Polishing Pads and Softbuff Foam Finishing pad.
I also have Heavy Cut Cleaner (#4) which I have used to get mineral deposits off windows. Neither Scratch-X nor the Heavy Cut Cleaner is supposed to be used with the PC dual action polisher.
Could I substitute any of these after the wet-sanding step? I would be doing a very small area, and could make up in extra time on a spot some of what I lack in power.
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Originally posted by Richard E
Could I substitute any of these after the wet-sanding step? I would be doing a very small area, and could make up in extra time on a spot some of what I lack in power.
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