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Getting car ready for Winter

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  • Getting car ready for Winter

    Just wanted to post a general question about what you all do to get your car ready for the harsh winter. I live in Utah and we get pretty good snow-ice-hail and everything in between. Also want to protect against the salt they put on the roads. Would putting several layers of Carnuba Wax be the best option? I want something to last for a few months as it will be hard to wash my car in the driveway in temperatures that may only get in the teens!

    Thanks!

  • #2
    Re: Getting car ready for Winter

    Since you are looking for something long lasting look into ultimate wax. It's a synthetic and synthetics last longer than a carnauba. NXT would be right behind ultimate wax.
    99 Grand Prix
    02 Camaro SS

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Getting car ready for Winter

      Like Guz mention, the Ultimate Wax is great! But just to add after you use the smooth surface clay kit to make sure you have removed all above surface bonded contaminates, (this is the most important part of any detail or polishing process/ if you apply a wax or sealant on contaminants, how long will your protection last?) I would apply 2 or even 3 coats! (make sure you apply very thin layers, and let cure before wiping away/ do the swipe test to make sure it's ready for removal)

      Now for your maintenance washes, after you rinsed all the dirt and soap away run a low pressure flow of water over surface of your vehicles paint/windows/rims. (helps in the drying process and less chance of water spots) And then spray some Ultimate Spray Wax over paint/windows/rims. (helps in the quickness in drying and leaves a nice film of protection behind that helps aid in the protection of your finish)

      I also found out years ago that Meguiars paste cleaner/wax (I'm a paste wax junkie) can be applied well down in the lower 30"s even when rinse water freezes before it runs off the paint. Again apply 2 thin layer and remove. Don't need to worry about curing won't happen so just start at the front and go around and remove in same order as application. Don't worry about circles just do front to back motion with about 5lbs. pressure and make sure you cover every inch and your fine. Then apply 2nd application in same way. The second applicationis is where you will start to notice a nice gloss and shine on light paint's and great reflections on darker paints.

      Also thoroughly clean rims and apply Meguiars Brake Dust Barrier in very light applications holding back about 12'' away let cure and bond to the surface of your rim and apply a 2nd coat in same way. Try not to get wet for 12 to 24 hours. And there's no need for using harsh wheel cleaner just soap, water and rinse. If for some chance you might need a little extra bite pick you up a bottle of Meguiars wheel cleaner at your local wally world or auto store.

      And Might as well get Meguiars headlight protection and apply a couple 2 or 3 applications on because your headlights take more brutal punishment then anything else. You should be good to go as long as you maintain regular maintenance and come spring time your vehicle won't be so time consuming to get back up to summer time cruizing beauty!

      Hope I've help
      ''USE THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE PRODUCT TO GET THE JOB DONE RIGHT''
      You Don't Know What You Can Do Until You Try '' TECHNIQUE IS EVERYTHING''
      Test Hoods Are Cheap And Most Of The Time Free

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Getting car ready for Winter

        Awesome! Thank for your responses. The biggest thing I want to guard against is he harsh salt residue that seems to build up on all of my vehicles. Great advice.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Getting car ready for Winter
          [INDENT] Hi, here in Germany the winter can also be strong with a lot of salt on the streets.

          For my "normal" washing routine: I use a pressure washer to clean the car undercarriage from the salt - then spray over the paint that the dirt gets off - after this a I use UWWA. This works well till 32

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Getting car ready for Winter

            Originally posted by Daniel Kinder View Post
            Like Guz mention, the Ultimate Wax is great! But just to add after you use the smooth surface clay kit to make sure you have removed all above surface bonded contaminates, (this is the most important part of any detail or polishing process/ if you apply a wax or sealant on contaminants, how long will your protection last?) I would apply 2 or even 3 coats! (make sure you apply very thin layers, and let cure before wiping away/ do the swipe test to make sure it's ready for removal)

            Now for your maintenance washes, after you rinsed all the dirt and soap away run a low pressure flow of water over surface of your vehicles paint/windows/rims. (helps in the drying process and less chance of water spots) And then spray some Ultimate Spray Wax over paint/windows/rims. (helps in the quickness in drying and leaves a nice film of protection behind that helps aid in the protection of your finish)

            I also found out years ago that Meguiars paste cleaner/wax (I'm a paste wax junkie) can be applied well down in the lower 30"s even when rinse water freezes before it runs off the paint. Again apply 2 thin layer and remove. Don't need to worry about curing won't happen so just start at the front and go around and remove in same order as application. Don't worry about circles just do front to back motion with about 5lbs. pressure and make sure you cover every inch and your fine. Then apply 2nd application in same way. The second applicationis is where you will start to notice a nice gloss and shine on light paint's and great reflections on darker paints.

            Also thoroughly clean rims and apply Meguiars Brake Dust Barrier in very light applications holding back about 12'' away let cure and bond to the surface of your rim and apply a 2nd coat in same way. Try not to get wet for 12 to 24 hours. And there's no need for using harsh wheel cleaner just soap, water and rinse. If for some chance you might need a little extra bite pick you up a bottle of Meguiars wheel cleaner at your local wally world or auto store.

            And Might as well get Meguiars headlight protection and apply a couple 2 or 3 applications on because your headlights take more brutal punishment then anything else. You should be good to go as long as you maintain regular maintenance and come spring time your vehicle won't be so time consuming to get back up to summer time cruizing beauty!

            Hope I've help
            Very good info here but I would say 1 coat of ultimate wax is plenty. A second coat is recommended for even coverage. Beyond 2 coats you are not really building up protection. The law of diminishing returns plays a factor. I do agree with claying the car first and if time allows you can polish the car. If not wash, clay and wax. Simple enough to get you through the winter. One thing to know about ultimate wax is that it does not haze like a traditional wax.



            I also recommend you invest in a riseless wash such as D114 or D115 and you can use that to wash the car in the winter. An over the counter product would be ultimate wash & wax anywhere. Be sure to knock off all the crud prior to using it.



            I also agree that brake dust barrier would be a good idea to apply to the wheels. It's always good to protect them.



            You can also use the wax of your choice on the headlights.

            One quick tip is to invest in ultimate quik wax. You can use that boost the wax after a wash.

            There is a lot of info here but don't be afraid to ask any other questions.
            99 Grand Prix
            02 Camaro SS

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Getting car ready for Winter

              I know this topic of layable waxes is just like the discussion of IPA'ing paint for coating's and very confusing at times but there's a roll of different waxes in play here that can be layered and then other's that will just remove the previous layer and wasting time as well. Now another roll comes in on this one, the climate of different region's around the states. It does get confusing!!!

              Went and found this great article Mike Phillips wrote awhile ago that will help shed some light on this subject and give us a better understanding of what were after from our wax and if more then 2 coats is ok and why. Hope this help's. #12 is what your after Scottie
              Is there such a thing as too much wax?


              Yes, if a product truly layers and it is not clear, then creating a film-build of this product would tend to diminish the beauty of the color as well as cloud the clarity of the clear coat.

              It's important to remember that wax is meant to be a sacrificial barrier, that it it is supposed to wear away as your car's finish is attacked by the elements so that your paint doesn't deteriorate. As such, wax is intended to be replaced.

              Meguiar's recommends applying a coat or two a wax every 3 to 4 months minimum if your car is a daily driver for protection. If you want your car to always look like you just waxed it, then simply wash and wax more often.

              As far as layering or building up a wax coating on paint goes, Meguiar's teaches the law of diminishing returns...


              Here is some information from Meguiar's new FAQ

              12. Are multiple coats of wax beneficial? (Layering)

              That depends on what effect you are looking for: protection or beauty.

              Protection

              If your looking for the maximum protection possible, then one or two thin coats of wax, maybe even up to three thin coats of wax, has the potential to create the most surface protection depending on the wax, the surface itself and whether or not sufficient time has passed in-between each application. Of course the law of diminishing returns states that you will not create exponentially greater layers of protection with each application, but Meguiar's knows that a second, and sometimes third application will insure uniform, thorough coverage over the majority of the surface, thus maximizing the protection.

              Environmental conditions today demand more frequent washing and waxing in order to prevent costly damage to the outer layers of paint. Just as important as a second, and possibly a third coating of wax is to provide the maximum amount of protection in any one detailing session, (especially on the horizontal surfaces), it is also vitally important that you wax more often to maintain your finish. This is especially true if your car is a daily driver exposed to the elements and parked outdoors most of the time.

              Beauty

              Will more coats of a product make a finish deeper, darker, and wetter looking with each additional application?

              In a word: Possibly

              Generally speaking, when trying to take your car's finish to its maximum potential for clarity, gloss, shine and depth of color, there comes a point, or a plateau, that you will reach whereupon additional applications of either polish or wax will not increase the results of any of those categories. Of course, you are more apt to reach this plateau if your skill level is high and if the quality of your products is also very high.

              These assumptions also assume that the surface in question is on
              • * A brand new car
                * A car with a brand new paint job
                * An older car whose finish has been well maintained and is in excellent condition
                * An older car whose finish has been professional restored to excellent condition


              If any of the above holds true, then you will most certainly hit the wall, so to speak, reaching that plateau of perfection whereby further applications will not improve the results of the previously applied coating. Your finish will have reached its maximum potential in appearance value.

              After time goes by and this plateau you have previously reached begins to diminish, you can restore the paint to it's maximum potential again, quickly and easily by simply applying a new coat of the right wax or polish. This maintenance procedure will only act to restore the finish back to it's maximum potential and shouldn't be positioned, or confused with making your surface deeper, darker, shinier, etc. than it's maximum potential.

              Once you hit 100% max potential, (or that plateau), it's time to stand back and admire the results, not continue to apply more and more coats.

              Special Note: Ideas suggesting that repeated applications of a product will continue to increase optic clarity and gloss and protection are misleading you and your own common sense should enable you to understand that a finish, whether black, red, single-stage, clear coat, etc. has a limit to how perfect it can become.100% of 100 is 100



              13. Can Meguiar's waxes be "Layered"?

              Meguiar's waxes can be layered, but two things must be tended to when layering waxes. 1) You must use the right waxes ("Layerable" waxes), and 2) You must recognize that at some point, "The Law of Diminishing Returns" takes effect.


              Layerable waxes

              A Layerable wax, is a wax that the protective ingredients used in the formula (natural and synthetic), are such that the protective layer left behind will not only adhere to the paint, but in subsequent applications, will adhere to itself. It also means that the carrying agents, be they solvent, water or something else, cannot be strong enough or in high enough concentrations to re-liquefy the previously applied layer, thus removing it during your attempt to add another layer.

              Layerable waxes are primarily pure waxes, or protectants (as synthetic formulas are referred to) that do not contain chemical cleaners, or solvents that will remove the previous layer.

              There is an exception to this rule and that is that it is possible to first apply a cleaner wax, and then apply a pure wax or pure synthetic over it.


              The Law of Diminishing Returns
              (Thomas Malthus "Essay on the Principle of Population" published in 1798.)

              While this theory is generally used to discuss topics as they relate to the areas of economics and politics, it is a model that can also be used to explain in this case, the complex action occurring at the microscopic level on the surface of your car's finish.

              The law of diminishing returns as it relates to layering,

              A surface, such as an automotive paint, can only hold so much product before all you're doing is removing all subsequent coatings applied to the surface.


              That is to say, after the first, second and in some cases a third application/coating, any more product applied to the surface is merely removed when you wipe the excess off after waiting for the product to cure.

              At this point you've reached a plateau (or limit), as to how much wax (natural or synthetic) a surface can hold. Once you reach this plateau, all further applications of wax simply become excess that will be removed (and thus wasted), during wipe-off because it has nowhere to attach and layer.

              Of course, this all depends upon your definition of the word "Layer". If your definition of the word layer follows that of Webster's Dictionary:

              2 a: One thickness, course, or fold, laid or lying over or under another.

              Then yes, you can layer to a certain point. For example, you can add multiple layers of layerable waxes until the limit to how much a given surface of an automotive paint can hold before each additional application is simply removed, or replaces a previously applied layer.

              You cannot layer to the point of developing a measurable film-build, and this is key; without negatively affecting, or diminishing to some degree, the shine, optical clarity, gloss, reflectivity, depth of color etc. of the finish

              This is especially true if the product you're applying is not clear (in and of itself) to start with. If your definition of the word "layer" follows that of definition used by some on the Internet,

              Layer 1: To continually build a greater level of protection with each additional application, or layer, of a wax or protectant. (Natural or synthetic)

              Layer 2: To continually increase shine, optical clarity, gloss, reflectivity, depth of color without end and/or after a plateau, or point of maximum potential has been achieved.

              Then no, you cannot layer a wax, synthetic, natural, or otherwise.

              Mike
              ''USE THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE PRODUCT TO GET THE JOB DONE RIGHT''
              You Don't Know What You Can Do Until You Try '' TECHNIQUE IS EVERYTHING''
              Test Hoods Are Cheap And Most Of The Time Free

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Getting car ready for Winter

                Getting ready for winter?

                Get the undercarriage oiled.
                Mist lube inner door panels/fenders/truck lid and hood.
                Paint rotors
                Lube rubber door/truck seals
                Lube door locks
                Lube hinges
                Wax if you want but salt won't hurt the clearcoat if you don't. Brushing snow off will. Buy a good snow brush and do it gently.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Getting car ready for Winter

                  Great points, all!

                  I applied two thin coats of wax (GC Carnuaba Plus paste wax) about 6 weeks ago.

                  It seems that it's time for me to wax again (after clay/polish).

                  Luckily, the winter has been mild so far--no snow (skiers are depressed), only a couple of minor rain storms and no salt applied to the roads yet.

                  Since my daily commute is 80 miles round trip through mountains, and the weather could change in an instant, a new wax job seems like a good idea.

                  What I think is really funny is that most people (who aren't fanatics) would consider my car 'fine' because 'water still beads on the surface.'

                  I don't.
                  2016 red Hyundai Azera, acquired with 21 miles. Drive 600+ miles/week. Commercial RE agent in CA focusing on properties in the Truckee/Lake Tahoe basin.

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