Do I have the right idea/plan?

[ralbert]

I have a new 2014 Honda Accord and it's black. I've done some research over the past week or so and have come up with an idea of how to preserve my paint for the long run.

1st - Wash car. I've seen the guy on youtube washing the mini cooper while using the 2 bucket technique, and that's also the route I plan to take.

2nd - Clay bar. I've seen videos of people using different products while using the clay bar. What product is most effective?

3rd - Polish. Are Scratch X and Polish the same thing? I'm a little confused as to what to do on this step. There are a couple of swirls but obviously nothing that is noticeable.

4th - Wax. Is there a particular type of wax best for black paint?

5th - Manage. Wash weekly, clay bar 2 times a year, still confused about polish, wax monthly.

I'm also planning on buying the DA drill attachment before I do any of this. Walmart's prices aren't bad but Advanced Auto Parts is pretty cheap if I use an online coupon. I think it was around $47 at Walmart and $41 at AAP.

[The Guz]

Re: Do I have the right idea/plan?

I have a new 2014 Honda Accord and it's black. I've done some research over the past week or so and have come up with an idea of how to preserve my paint for the long run.

1st - Wash car. I've seen the guy on youtube washing the mini cooper while using the 2 bucket technique, and that's also the route I plan to take.

2nd - Clay bar. I've seen videos of people using different products while using the clay bar. What product is most effective?

3rd - Polish. Are Scratch X and Polish the same thing? I'm a little confused as to what to do on this step. There are a couple of swirls but obviously nothing that is noticeable.

4th - Wax. Is there a particular type of wax best for black paint?

5th - Manage. Wash weekly, clay bar 2 times a year, still confused about polish, wax monthly.

I'm also planning on buying the DA drill attachment before I do any of this. Walmart's prices aren't bad but Advanced Auto Parts is pretty cheap if I use an online coupon. I think it was around $47 at Walmart and $41 at AAP.

You have the right idea. These videos will help.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?41790-Meguiar-s-Quik-Tips-Video-Series-Washing

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?42524-Meguiar-s-Quik-Tips-Video-Series-Claying

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?36525-Meguiar-s-Video-Training-Series-Maintain-Your-Finish

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?56799-Meguiar-s-Quik-Tips-Video-Series-The-DA-Power-System

As far as products

Wash - You have some options Gold Class and Ultimate wash & wax are both good.

Clay - The clay kit is what you want

Compound - I would recommend you pick up some ultimate compound. It's good to have around especially for those defects that need a more aggressive approach than just a polish.

Polish - I would recommend ultimate polish. Scracthx is a little more aggressive than UP but if you have ultimate compound then ultimate polish is what you want. Ultimate polish offers some correction.

Wax - That is up to what you want. Carnauba's give that warm look (Gold Class, M26) and synthetics give that glossy look (NXT 2.0, Ultimate Wax). Although Ultimate Wax looks good on dark colors and is the longest lasting wax currently offered. Synthetics also last longer. They can typically last 4-6 months and a carnauba can last about 1-3 months. You may want to invest

Maintenance - Invest in ultimate quik wax and ultimate quik detailer. You can check out the video in the link provided on how to maintain using those two products in your wash routine.

One thing to note is that when buying the pads for the DA power system they come with some product with them. You can't go wrong with the ultimate line up.

[Joe Dragon]

Re: Do I have the right idea/plan?

Here's a chart on the different abrasive levels of polishes that might help you decide what to use; click on the chart to enlarge it:

http://www.autopiaforums.com/Todd-Helme/polish-chart.jpg

[ralbert]

Re: Do I have the right idea/plan?

Thanks for the help Guz. Do I even need to use UC since it's a new car? I guess when I do a test spot run I will figure it out if it's the look I'm going for, but at this point could the UC really do that much of a better job than the UP? Are UP, Scratch X, UC the same thing except that UP is the least aggressive and UC is the most aggressive?

I watched a video where Mike (can't think of his last name) did this entire process to a brand new camaro that had 2,000 miles on it. It's incredible how many contaminants are on the paint at that point in its life. Anyways, I noticed that he used the UC on the camaro but I assumed that the UP would've done the job considering that there couldn't be that many flaws in the paint..... or were there?

Obviously, I'm just a little confused about the purpose and aggressiveness of the three products I mentioned above.

[ralbert]

Re: Do I have the right idea/plan?

Joe Dragon, I didn't even notice your post until I posted mine. That chart is actually pretty helpful and basically answered all of my questions but one. What is the purpose of pulling UP on the car after using UC? To me it's almost like you are putting a coat of wax on the car and then putting another coat of wax on the car. Apologies for the newb questions.

[C8N]

Re: Do I have the right idea/plan?

^ UC being the more aggressive product, there is a potential that it may leave its own damage.
UP will clear that up. In the case of these two in terms of cutting ability, think of UC as sledge hammer and UP as a tack hammer.

[ralbert]

Re: Do I have the right idea/plan?

C8N, That's what I thought after looking at the chart but I wasn't sure. Just out of curiosity, why would the paint already be in "poor" enough condition for me use UC? Or does all paint need UC and then UP?

[drumdan]

Ultimate Polish contains both fine Super Micro Abrasive Technology, along with a glaze. The abrasives act to refine the finish, make final corrections, and if used on it's own, without Ultimate Compound, clean the paint. The glaze adds amplifies the finishing characteristics, as well as fills in minor imperfections that may have gone undetected during the correcting process.

Pad choice can play a big part in how these characteristics are either exploited, or negated. I find that if I'm using a blue Hex Logic pad, I can get a lot of correcting done with just Ultimate Polish, and good technique. While many prefer the orange, white, and black pad set, I prefer the green, blue, and red pads (pink, green, and blue in the Lake Country CCS line).

The reason is that closed cell pads don't exhibit much cut on their own, and rely more on downward pressure by the machine operator to engage the abrasives. With the open cell pads, I'm better able to utilize the weight of the machine to perform it's task of correction. Another advantage is that because I'm not exerting pressure on the pad as much as I would the closed cell pads, they run cooler, which good overall for the paint, product, and pad.

Take this with a grain of salt, and definitely try your own things out. The point I was trying to illustrate is the effectiveness, and versatility of Ultimate Polish. I absolutely LOVE this produce. SwirlX, UP's sister light/medium duty polish is also a knock out product. I don't like to unleash the beast (Ultimate Compound/M105) unless all other avenues have been extinguished. I even used Ultimate Polish on a yellow Rupes microfiber pad, and received even faster results. It's versatile, not to be overlooked.

Be warned that many reviews you may encounter online lamenting this, or any other product must also be taken with a grain of salt. Sadly, many of these people are applying polishes, and compounds like a wax. They wipe it on, let it set (never do this), and then wonder why it doesn't want to come off.... These products are designed to be worked in, and must be worked in order to perform their specific task, then immediately removed.

Using Ultimate Polish, you may encounter a situation where it looks like some of it is sticking to the paint. A glossy splotch that doesn't want to wipe off with a microfiber alone. Just simply go over that spot with fresh product to re activate the polish, then remove as normal. Quick Detailer works well for this as well. Then make sure the product is well shaken up before you proceed

[The Guz]

Re: Do I have the right idea/plan?

Thanks for the help Guz. Do I even need to use UC since it's a new car? I guess when I do a test spot run I will figure it out if it's the look I'm going for, but at this point could the UC really do that much of a better job than the UP? Are UP, Scratch X, UC the same thing except that UP is the least aggressive and UC is the most aggressive?

I watched a video where Mike (can't think of his last name) did this entire process to a brand new camaro that had 2,000 miles on it. It's incredible how many contaminants are on the paint at that point in its life. Anyways, I noticed that he used the UC on the camaro but I assumed that the UP would've done the job considering that there couldn't be that many flaws in the paint..... or were there?

Obviously, I'm just a little confused about the purpose and aggressiveness of the three products I mentioned above.

It depends on how the car looks in the sun. Doing a test spot with the least aggressive product such as ultimate polish is a good way to start. Let the paint tell you what it needs. Some new cars come from the dealer with DISO (delaer installed swirl option) from them washing it. You also have to take into account the hardness of the paint. In that video a Camaro and from experience GM has hard paint. Honda's are typically on the soft side.

You may not need it but it's always nice to have. You never know when you may get a defect that requires a little more work than what a polish can remove.

^ UC being the more aggressive product, there is a potential that it may leave its own damage.
UP will clear that up. In the case of these two in terms of cutting ability, think of UC as sledge hammer and UP as a tack hammer.

Just to be clear when using an aggressive product such as a compound, it can leave the paint hazy. This is where a polish comes into play. It refines the finish and adds the gloss. The wax will seal that gloss in.

C8N, That's what I thought after looking at the chart but I wasn't sure. Just out of curiosity, why would the paint already be in "poor" enough condition for me use UC? Or does all paint need UC and then UP?

That cart is a good reference but I do not know how accurate it really is. If you want to see the aggressiveness of Meguiar's products then check this thread out. Ultimate Polish would be on the right side next to M205.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...t-surprise-you!


I'm a fan of the ultimate line. I still use it but my go to polish is M205. It is such a versatile product. More so than ultimate polish. Ultimate polish is derived from M205 with the differences between the two being that M205 offers more correction where as UP offers more polishing oils. You can find M205 locally as well. I get mine at autozone. I have also seen it at pep boys.

Here's a nicely priced kit. Online only.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-Ultimate-Results-Bundle/29670206

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiar-s-DA-Power-System-Tool-3-PowerPak-s-with-Meguiar-s-Ultimate-Polish-Wax-and-Compound-Bundle/22573835

[Coach]

Re: Do I have the right idea/plan?

ralbert, you've got some very good advice in the replies already. While The Guz mentions Ultimate Compound, since your car is new, you probably won't need to apply UC to your entire finish. It shouldn't need that degree of correction. Instead, keep it on hand to use it as needed for those small areas that unfortunately "appear" and need spot correction by hand. Parking lots are a dangerous place!

As far as a machine goes, for very short cash you should consider this dual action polisher. Its only $10 more than you aimed for.

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers/6-in-variable-speed-dual-action-polisher-69924.html

Hope this helps.

[The Guz]

Re: Do I have the right idea/plan?

The harbor freight DA is pretty good. It does what it's supposed to. If you do go with this DA be sure to swap out the backing plate for something better and of course pads.

[Murr1525]

Don't worry about scratchx.

Have to just get a good look in the sun when clean, and see if any defects that need removed, then plan from there.

Often it is best to just do your first detail, see how it goes, then do any more in depth work the second detail.