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with washing,test spots,interior,engine bays, doublechecking everything to see if i'm happy with my work, or like some detailers stated yes even days with some special intrest cars... it's not work it's passion!!!
''USE THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE PRODUCT TO GET THE JOB DONE RIGHT''
You Don't Know What You Can Do Until You Try '' TECHNIQUE IS EVERYTHING'' Test Hoods Are Cheap And Most Of The Time Free
I know I replied to this already but, I have been slacking guys. I haven't detailed my car in over six months. It is covered completely in pollen, dust, bird poo and everything else. Time to get off the boat and put some "love" back into my car's finish. It will take me a full twelve hours at least.
I voted for 5 hours because that is my average time. I could probably go lower in time but I am usually in no rush, I wake up early, and just take my time.
I voted for 10+ as I do:
My wifes car
Rinse, Wash, rewash, dry 1 to 2 hours
Clay
Paint Cleaner
Mask up 1+
Speed Glaze by DA Polisher
DC polish by hand
DC Wetlook by hand
DC Carunba wax by hand
remove masking tape
do trim 2+ by hand
APC engine bay and windows
then I think about doing the interior the next day.
6 hours +
My bike
Rinse, wash, dry 1+
clay
paint cleaner
Speed Glaze
DC polish
DC Wetlook
Hand polish all my chrome 3+
I do the above once a month and the following every week
rinse, wash, rewash
DC polish
DC carunba wax
once a week on both car and bike (along with chrome polishing on the bike).
This takes me a full day to do both.
Just thought I would mention that drying should not take 1+ hours or 1 to 2 hours. Here is how I dry:
After washing, I get separate towels for the doors and door jams and gas cap lid and under the trunk. I get all the cracks first and use air from a can of air to get water out of the mirrors.
Now, I lightly spritz the area (panel) I am going to dry with a spray wax that is meant to be used while drying and use a chamois then immediately follow with the water magnet. This gets the entire car more than 99% dry, prevents runs, and spotting. If I miss something or do not have it all the way dry, it does not really mater because the next step for me is clay, which requires the area be wet again anyway.
If I am in a hurry and wish to clay, I just use the hose to keep the car wet to prevent spotting. I obviously work in the shade as well.
My Clay Procedure:
Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay removed from sandwich bag and spritzed with some form of a Quick Detailer then molded into a ball and flattened out. I then set it on the plastic bag and spray 1 spray of QD, so it doesn't stick.
Now, I mix up 2 spray bottles.
1 has soapy water, which I mix up with distilled water (no minerals or chemicals/very pure) and some car wash solution such as the Gold Class, since I am not going to buy the #000. I just make it nice and week to really just make a thick, slippery water.
I then fill the other spray bottle with distilled water as well. Please understand that I found a place where I buy 2 gallons of distilled/de-ionized water for 50 cents. This makes it cheaper 10 cents cheaper per gallon than what I drink. I buy the water from a chemical supplier in my area that ships all kinds of chemicals all over the USA. They have minerals, acids, water, and all kinds of stuff. The people that work there are awesome and allow me to buy stuff directly without forcing me to pay shipping, which in the case of water would be expensive.
I spray the car and one side of the clay with the soapy solution and clay, then wipe up the mess with a microfiber. I then spray the area with the distilled water and wipe it with another towel to make sure I leave no soap behind. The cost of using this very pure bottled water is very low, since I use only about half a gallon of it while claying. The results are just as good as when using a quick detailer.
You cannot go wrong when claying if your clay is of the right type, clean (no dirt), you use it on a clean car, and you use lots of lubricating liquid (just about anything that is more slippery than water). Obviously, if you use soapy solutions, you need to rinse when done.
_________________________ Popular Time Saving Technique:
Wash the car and leave it wet.
Spray on some slippery soap and clay then rinse again and dry.
I chose over 10 hours, but it really depends on what I am working on. I have detailed 2 cars in one day that took 14 hours to complete between the 2. the first took 6 then the vette took the remaining 8. My two trucks take about 10hrs each. Most of my client's vehicle take from 8 to 12 hours to complete. This includes wash, clay, full interior, machine polish the paint, 2 coats of my lsp of choice, dress tires, clean windows, and a final wipe down.
Even on my small car I spend almost 10 hours doing a "FULL" detail. When you consider that I do the steps below you can see how 10 hours can be spent very quickly.
1) wash, 2) dry, 3) clay, 4) clean paint, 5) evaluate, 6) test spot, 7) tape off car, 8) polish/cleaner (M80), 9) alcohol wipe down, 10) evaluate , 11) repeat #8 if needed, 12) fine polish (M07), 13) sealant (NXT 2.0), 14) The next day second coat (NXT 2.0), 15) Time for a BEER, admire your work, and watch [FONT='Calibri','sans-serif']your neighbors turn green with envy.[/FONT]
Thank to Mike P., Mike P., Murr1525 and many others for your advise as you had thsi all possible.
My ride months after a detail but just after a wash and UQD wipe down.
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Ignorance can be overcome but stupid lasts forever !
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