UC and polish question

[tbone8801]

Hello,

new to the forum. I purchased the meguiar's DA polisher, clay bar and UC kit. I've used Meguiars products for years. After clay baring and using the UC, I found that I had trouble removing some scratches with the UC but it worked nice. After using the UC, I went straight into waxing using the gold class meguiars wax in conjuction with my DA polisher. I used the yellow polishing pads with the UC, and the black finishing pads with the wax. I did wash the pads first, but I never primed them. After waxing, I noticed new scratches. probably from the pad not primed.

Question, should I use a polish after the UC? I feel the paint looks a little dull after using the UC. do you guys prime the pads with quick detail or a different primer before using?

whats steps should I take in detailing?

clay
UC
polish
wax

any tips advice for novice detailer appreciated. I wouldn't mind moving towards the professional line as well, I am good with the DA, just need the right products.

This was used on 2008 Lexus ISF, 1998 jeep grand cherokee, and 2011 hyuandai tcuson, all black vehicles. not sure on stage of paint.

[s word]

Re: UC and polish question

Welcome, I was just in a similar situation. Though my knowledge of detailing is in infancy I have done a similar process. A lot of the DA work comes down to technique. I had similar problems when i started working with the DA. The key is the proper speed settings, pressure and keeping the face flat to the surface. What sort of pressure are you putting down? You must put good pressure (but not too much) on the DA for it to do the mechanical work.

Your steps are correct, some sort of washing before clay would make the steps pretty perfect. Although polish can be an optional step, sometimes after working with UC you will find that UP will bring out the real wet flashy nice finish (or M205). I just did my wifes honda pilot and the UC was good at correcting the issues but left a hazy surface. A little UP cleared that up no problem.

Also may be that you are working hard paint, my VW has extremely hard paint and to work on that I actually stepped up to the micro fiber system. This tool gets a WOW, because what it took me to do with DA and foam pads, I did with half the effort with DAMF system.

But definately use UP to clean up after UC (if needed for hazing)
I am not sure priming has a lot to do with your result, but likely someone will chime in and let you know if so. Again welcome.

[tbone8801]

Re: UC and polish question

thanks for the reply, I was wondering about the polish effect. I am going to try the M205 or UP. has anyone tried the 105 with the meguiars DA? can the orange hex pads be used with the meguiars DA? thanks.

[s word]

Re: UC and polish question

thanks for the reply, I was wondering about the polish effect. I am going to try the M205 or UP. has anyone tried the 105 with the meguiars DA? can the orange hex pads be used with the meguiars DA? thanks.

M205 works wonders, little different to work with because i believe it is intended to be used with rotary. 105 will work too, little more cut than UC. also, always use a test area before doing process to whole car. you'll waste time if you dont. i don't have other pads than the yellow and black from megs.. i use yellow with 105 and uc, black with UP and 205. I don't own the red foam pad. but I rather use a higher cut compound than adjust my foam pad, but that's just me. I'd suggest you start with UP because of ease of use. But if you raelly want to jump to 205 no issue. Also make sure you wipe off any of these compounds/polishes before they dry or your time will be spent trying to pull up instead of making shiny.

Best results I have seen often come from technique rather than product. Take your time, work slowly on cool paint. Don;t try to finish the car in 1-2 hrs. May be extreme but an example would be spend 1-2 on hood alone. Wash, Clay, Test spot with full process (UC then UP then WAX), then work a 2x2 area with UC, wipe off, move to the next 2x2 area until done. Then do the same thing with the UP. Then wax it! I was a speed racer and wanted the whole car shiny quickly. But then after speaking to a few people on here (especially Imz4n) realized slow and steady is the best way to go. And my results prove it.

[Scott's 62]

You rely don't need to prime pads on a DA, if you do just use water or M34 final inspection. If you we're using a rotary then you would want to prime your pads.

[Evan.J]

Re: UC and polish question

You rely don't need to prime pads on a DA, if you do just use water or M34 final inspection. If you we're using a rotary then you would want to prime your pads.

Mike Phillips has a great write up on priming the pad whether is a DA or Rotary.

Here is the link: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-polisher.html