Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

[rapport25]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

I used nearly a full bottle of swirl x on the car. On problem areas i stepped up to ultimate compound but in reality swirl x was used on 99% of the correction work. Followed with dc02 polish and topped with 2 coats of nxt tech wax 2.0 and topped with nxt tech speed detailer. Job done

And as for the D/A g220 fantastic the best purchase I have made in a long time

[rapport25]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

Your before and after shots of the whole car, and your comment about how blue the car looks following the detailing, are very telling.

We all knew the car was blue, but look at the difference in clarity, depth and reflectivity after you finished with it. That's just fantastic! Would have loved to see some swirls/before shots, but that difference shown in the whole car shots brings it home nicely. From a distance the car didn't really look all that bad, but now from the same distance it looks stunning. That's quite an accomplishment!

Thanks . After 15-17hrs i was impressed . It was only when I uploaded the photos to my computer I noticed there was such a difference in clarity,depth and reflectivity.

My process on the Fiesta ST is as follows:-

Paint Correction Service Pre Wash/Pre Clean

1. Interior Vacuumed and all vents cleared from dust and debris.
2. All wheels cleaned with non acid wheel cleaner via pressure washer/foam lance and agitated with soft bristle brush.
3. Complete car pre washed with snow foam via foam lance.
4. Pressure washed with clean water ready for washing
5. 2 bucket wash system with grit guards and lambs wool wash mitt.
6. Pressure washed with clean water and car dried.

Paint Correction

1. Entire car clayed to remove all traces of tar/surface contamination
2. Paint depth checked and recorded on every panel prior to machine work
3. Start to work
4. Machine polishing while checking progress with swirl removal via a swirl finder light.
5. Use 5 step system to restore car back to an almost swirl free finish.
6. Wax entire car and leave to set.
7. Dress all exterior plastics and rubbers
8. Clean all door shunts boot bonnet etc...
9. Dress engine bay
10. Dress all interior plastics and clean interior*
11. Clean all windows inside and out
12. Remove Wax. Apply 2nd coat.
13. Check all work is satisfactory.
14. Remove wax
15. Quick Detail entire car
16. Final Inspection

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

What do you think to my detailing work

Your before and after shots of the whole car, and your comment about how blue the car looks following the detailing, are very telling.

We all knew the car was blue, but look at the difference in clarity, depth and reflectivity after you finished with it. That's just fantastic! Would have loved to see some swirls/before shots, but that difference shown in the whole car shots brings it home nicely. From a distance the car didn't really look all that bad, but now from the same distance it looks stunning. That's quite an accomplishment!

[rapport25]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

When trying to capture swirls in the paint the camera will often try to focus on the object being reflected in the paint and not the paint surface itself. It helps to put your fingertip on the spot you want to shoot, focus on your finger, then move it out of the way of the shot. You can also lay a towel on the paint right next to the swirls you want to show and focus on the towel.

In either case, you obviously need the sun shining directly into your camera lens, or darn close to it.

Great, thanks for the hints and tips. I will give it a try on my next detail in around 2 weeks. I really wish I could of done some shots before and after swirls. This car was bad!!!!

What do you think to my detailing work

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

When trying to capture swirls in the paint the camera will often try to focus on the object being reflected in the paint and not the paint surface itself. It helps to put your fingertip on the spot you want to shoot, focus on your finger, then move it out of the way of the shot. You can also lay a towel on the paint right next to the swirls you want to show and focus on the towel.

In either case, you obviously need the sun shining directly into your camera lens, or darn close to it.

[rapport25]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

Whats the best way to capture swirls on your camera?
Really struggled to capture them with a swirl light and the sun.

Hence no before pics of swirls or scratches.

[rapport25]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

Hi guys some pics of my detail work.

Rappy


Fiesta ST paint correction & full detail.15-17hrs to complete

Before:-


After:-

Wheels only cleaned in this shot
Before:-




After:-



Before:-



After:-

My favourite bit. Snow foam




Before:-




After:-

Look how blue the car is after detailing

Reflections and pics with swirl light. Scratches and swirls all gone.



Crazy reflections

[rapport25]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

By "give away" you mean "release information on" or "hint at"?

Sure.

We'll have a bunch of new products, covering a wide range of applications, that will be introduced at SEMA this year. Just like we did in 2009. And 2008. And 2007. And.....

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

As for products is there anything you can give away, please

By "give away" you mean "release information on" or "hint at"?

Sure.

We'll have a bunch of new products, covering a wide range of applications, that will be introduced at SEMA this year. Just like we did in 2009. And 2008. And 2007. And.....

[rapport25]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

Not sure exactly when you'll be seeing Gold Class Carnauba Plus - you might want to contact the guys at Meguiar's UK for that info.

New products for 2011???? Hmmm....... probably.

Check back the first week of November during SEMA week. We just might have a thing or two then.

They have no idea of the launch date in the uk!!!!

As for products is there anything you can give away, please

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

Not sure exactly when you'll be seeing Gold Class Carnauba Plus - you might want to contact the guys at Meguiar's UK for that info.

New products for 2011???? Hmmm....... probably.

Check back the first week of November during SEMA week. We just might have a thing or two then.

[rapport25]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

Just curious when is the release date for Gold class plus carnauba in th uk? Also any new products beinging launched this year?

Thanks.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

I have a g220 basically thats the uk version I'm lead to believe. The d/a sounds a fine tool from what you have been saying. I would of thought that my paint gauge would show a before and after reading.

Well, the Meguiar's G220 is the same tool as our G110 D/A with the only difference being that it's made to run on 220v current rather than the typical 110v current found in the US. Otherwise, it's the same tool - the one we've been describing - so you should be good to go. While not totally impossible to do any paint damage with this tool, it is not impossible. But you would have to do something extremely aggressive with it to cause problems, and from the sound of your posts you don't strike us as someone who just throws caution to the wind and jumps in blindly. We think you'll be just fine.

Below the headlight of my passat there is a slight ridge can I use the da there. The reason I ask is because the pad will not be sitting flat as its a curved surface. Hope that makes sense.

Even though the pad won't be sitting totally flat in that area, and that the area is smaller in width than the pad is in diameter, you can still use a full sized pad there. Sure, it will cantilever off the edge, but that's not really a problem. The pad and tool are actually quite forgiving in these areas, just take your time.

You may well find the paint on this car to be fairly hard (ie, difficult to correct) as you work on it. Many VWs are known for their hard paint - not all, but it is quite common to find hard paint on VW vehicles, so just be prepared for that. All it means is that you may need a couple of extra passes to correct the defects, or a more aggressive liquid (ie, Ultimate Compound instead of SwirlX). But keep in mind, too, that if you are not removing find swirl marks then you really aren't removing any paint. This is true in the areas of very thin paint and the more robust areas as well.

[rapport25]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

Thanks for your sound advise I appreciate it

The last time I used a machine was around 15yrs ago and it was a rotary with a lambs wool head and t cut on full speed not sure of thr rpms now.If only I knew then what I know now!!!! You can see where this going basically my bonnet needed a respray.

I have a g220 basically thats the uk version I'm lead to believe. The d/a sounds a fine tool from what you have been saying. I would of thought that my paint gauge would show a before and after reading.




Heres some pic's of my VW . Ref to applying by hand. Below the headlight of my passat there is a slight ridge can I use the da there. The reason I ask is because the pad will not be sitting flat as its a curved surface. Hope that makes sense.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Deep Crystal with a G220 & paint depths.

When using a D/A you rarely need to worry about removing too much paint, unless you're working on very, very soft paint that is quite thin - we see this most commonly on old, original single stage paint systems, classic cars, etc. Even using something like Ultimate Compound with a polishing pad on speed 5 (assuming Meguiar's G110v2, Porter Cable 7424 or similar tool) it's rare that you can measure any real difference in paint thickness after buffing. A lot of what's happening is the rounding off of sharp edges from the swirl marks, which stops the harsh reflecting of light from the surface. Basically you remove the prism effect of a sharp cut in the clear coat when doing this. Obviously in areas where you know the paint to be very thin it's wise to proceed with caution, and you plan sounds excellent.

As for hand work in tight areas, sometimes that is indeed the only option. You don't need to move to hand work just because an area is smaller than the pad diameter, though. A-pillars are a case in point; though much narrower than the diameter of a typical D/A pad you can still effectively work on them with a full sized pad. You can usually work on the tops of bumpers quite easily as well, but of course each vehicle is unique so common sense will dictate what can or can not be machine corrected.