Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

[g33tar]

...105 ONLY in direct sunlight vs. 105 followed by 205 in direct sunlight?

I finally got my 105 in the mail today and was extremely excited. Tried it on the side of my car and it DID get out most of the swirls and scratches BUT it left buffer hologram things? I dont know how to explain it, im sure you guys know what i mean. Now, I dont have a ton of money to go playing around with and was hoping that 105 would do what I wanted, but I think im going to scrape up some funds and get 205 now..?

I was hoping someone had some 105 vs 105 & 205 photos to make sure it will get the 'holograms' out of there before I spend money I dont have. Thanks guys


I found a photo of the 'swirl' things that looks similar to whats going on on my car....

The photo is not of my car.



-Alex

[Markus Kleis]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

Can you share (in as much detail as possible) what your process was with the M105?

Also, tell us a little bit about your car...year, make, model, color etc

As for the difference, M205 is a finishing polish intended to leave the surface flawless after M105.

What other polishes do you currently own (if any), and what types of polishers and pads?

[Calais]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

M205 sounds like what you need, photos or not.

Be sure to "clean your pad on the fly", use fresh pads, clean your surface throughly before paint correction and continually check your pad and surface. Are you using a rotary or DA?

[the_invisible]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

Yes, M105 leaves a lot of marring. My son's friend's black IS350 was experiencing heavy marring, swirls, and spiderwebbing from just DC Polish and a PC7424 with an orange pad. Perhaps his technique was incorrect, he delved straight to work without prior research, but from the sounds of it, he did all steps very safely. The M105 may be too aggressive for the IS350 soft paint to simply remove swirls. M205 or SwirlX may have been the better choice.

[Megafast13]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

My Lexus has somewhat hard paint...

The marring/holograms that you are describing can be due many things.

Questions for TC:

What is your vehicle?
What Machine Buffer are you using?
What Speed Are You buffing with?
What Pads are you using?
How Much Pressure are you applying.

Generally with soft paints, you will use a compound such as M105, then Follow up with M205 which will remove those holograms in a breeze.

[g33tar]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

Hey guys, thanks for all the responses firstly. Its appreciated greatly.

My car is a 1998 VW GTI. Its black.

As for the buffer / pads, I went with the Harbor Freight special and picked up a Harbor Freight wool pad and foam pad.





After reading up about pads, I would consider the yellow pad a 'cutting' pad. The pores dont seem to be very dense, which is what im guessing is the difference between a cutting and finishing pad.

I practiced using the 105 on a practice hood in my garage for quite a while this afternoon at all different speeds and techniques. I tried it at about 1300rpms using just the 105 and then 105 with a light water spritz on the pad after a few passes, and then the same thing at a lower rpm...maybe around 900.

I found that doing it without water and using it at its lowest speed gave me the best results. If i used it at a fast rpm it gummed up a bit.

I also tried buffing for different periods of time and found that it comes out looking best when i buff WAY past how long what I think it should take...like one minute beyond the product disappearing.

Im using hardly any pressure...just the weight of the buffer. The practice hood i have in the garage with a halogen pointed at it looks absoloutely flawless when i go at 900 rpms for about 2 minutes. Tried a test panel on my car which is in the sunlight and it was a whole different story.

I also picked up the Ultimate Compound back when I originally bought the buffer, and it does also do an excellent job of buffing from 1500 grit to shiny. Had the same problem with it on my car and thought the 105 would fix it since it seems to be thought of internet-wide as a general miracle worker haha. I guess I should have gone with the 205.

-Alex

Sorry for the novel. Im a total newb to this. Just trying to be detailed

[the_invisible]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

Wait a minute? You went with a wool pad, and a rotary (since you mention 900rpm)?? And you claim to be a newb????

Hmmm, I am speechless, and I am interested to hear what the others have to say.

[g33tar]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

Yea, I did wool first and the foam second, using both at reasonably low rpm's. Ive read thats the proper order, no?

I figured if i use them at low rpms, ill have less of a chance to harm anything and will just have to work the product longer, which is fine with me.

-Alex

[the_invisible]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

Hi Alex,

Assuming that no damage has been incurred from using a wool pad, you can try using a much gentler pad to remove the marring effect caused by the wool pad. Wool pads are usually used for repair of severely weathered paint by cutting through the clear coat. Although a wool pad is capable of repairing heavy paint damages, it also causes scratches, swirls, and marring. I recommend you use some gentler pads to repair the damages you created on your vehicle.

One such pad would be Meguiar's Polishing Pad or the Lake Country Orange pad. A yellow pad is used in the initial phase of polishing for repairing heavy oxidation, scratches, and swirls. A Lake Country Yellow pad, in essence, is similar to the wool pad in terms of cutting ability. While a wool pad is effective in removing wetsanding marks, th yellow pad repairs heavy oxidation along with severe scratches. Having the wool treatment already performed, I don't think you would need to use a yellow pad. Again that is assuming you did not permanently damage your car's surface.

To reduce the amount of damage you will incur on your vehicle, I suggest you go with one of those gentler pads I mentioned above. A slow speed of around 900rpm on a rotary should suffice, unless you are comfortable with working with higher speeds on a rotary.

Although I have no experience with a rotary, keep in mind to never work the rotary in the same spot for over two seconds. Keep the rotary constantly moving to prevent paint burn through.

[g33tar]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

Alrite guys. Im guessing 205 is the direction i need to head in. I bought my 105 at http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/ for $10...the little sampler one. I figured I should be able to get the 205 there also for around the same price?

Assuming I end up re-ordering from that website, can you guys suggest what ONE pad on that website would work best with 205 to go from the slightly buffer hazing thing ive got going on to looking nice? (for as cheap as possible ) Figure if I can get both things at one place I can save on some shipping.

Thanks guys. All suggestions appreciated!

Oh, and my rotary is 7" hook and loop.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

Yes, M105 leaves a lot of marring.

That's not necessarily true. We've seen cases where M105 even with a W5000 Double Sided Wool Pad left an extremely nice finish, far nicer that what you could reasonably expect from a compound and wool pad. The image below is that very combination used to pull out 1000 grit sanding marks. There is no finishing polish, glaze or wax on the surface here - not too shabby:



Having said that, the ultimate outcome is going to depend on a whole lot of variables:

• pad selection
• machine speed
• pad angle against the surface
• pressure
• arm speed
• paint hardness/softness/workability
• operator skill/overall technique

No doubt we could post a wide range of images showing M105 used in an equally wide range of variables, with a corresponding wide range of outcomes. But the same could be said of ANY compound, cleaner, polish, etc. Further, we could show examples where M205 removed holograms and cases where it didn't, again all based on the above variables.

The coarseness of the Harbor Freight wool pad you used is going to be a primary contributor to your holograms. Along the same lines, if you use M205 with the foam cutting pad from Harbor Freight, you may well end up with some marring from that pad when using almost any finishing polish.

Your best bet would be to pick up a foam finishing pad, whether the Meguiar's W9207 or one of the Lake Country pads (although you can imagine our preference here ) and use that with the M205. Run your rotary at a slow speed - experiment a bit with 900 to 1100 rpm - keeping the pad flat on the surface and moving it slowly over the paint using light to moderate pressure only. Again, you'll need to experiment a bit to fine tune this. Take your time with it. M205 normally provides a pretty generous buffing cycle and its use generally returns a high degree of clarity to the finish.

[Nappers]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

The Joker truck looked fabulous after M105 and a wool pad and looked ready for an LSP right after if memory serves.

It's all about your last bullet, technique/Skill level!

I've had more micro marring with M83 than I do with M105 lately.....I have a bottle of M83 left and plan to buy some M105/M205, after using a sampler by Kevin Brown, it's good stuff!

[g33tar]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

Yea that car does look very good after just 105. My car looks spotless in my garage under my 500w halogen even up close, but then outside in the direct sunlight...is another story.

One more question before I bite the bullet on a bottle of 205 and a finishing pad...

Has anyone ever tried finishing with 105 and a finish pad? Maybe I should just get a finishing pad and try it with the 105 I already have?

Also, I noticed my dad has a random orbital sander in the garage with hook and loop. Would that work similarly to a random orbital buffer if i threw a pad on that? Thanks guys

-Alex

And how do i go about getting these 'samplers' you guys all speak of on here

[g33tar]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

Just double checking....the W9207 is a black pad right? I want to order it from autodetailingsolutions...but they dont mention the product number on the page.

I want to just say thanks again to all you guys throwing some help at a little ol' newb. I really cant say how much I appreciate it.

-Alex

[Nappers]

Re: Does anyone have any comparison photos of...

Yes, the black pad is the 9207. and the samplers, Rick sells them at ADS, it's on their website.

The random orbital......what brand is it and how big?