#105 vs. #95

[Markus Kleis]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Because sometimes you do need a bigger hammer?

Exactly. I detail "professionally" and there are times when certain cars (usually black) would take 5-10 passes with most polishes, but one pass with M105, followed by 2-3 passes with a polish or two and you have perfection with MUCH less time and effort.

[ZoranC]

Re: #105 vs. #95

I can see M105 is for bodyshops and used car dealers or detailers doing alot of daily driver, but I can't understand why anyone who is a car enthusiast or details their own cars would use an aggressive product like M95 or M105 ?

Because sometimes you do need a bigger hammer?

[EdT]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Depends upon who you are and what your goals are. Remember,

This is a product primarily made for?

(This is a test, see if you can answer the question correctly)


Body shops don't normally shoot for the kind of results the people on this forum and forums like MOL are always talking about. Body shops, for the most part are "Production Shops", the goal is to paint the car and not have to buff it at all. If the car has to be buffed these guys want a cutting compound that will remove the sanding marks quickly and look good enough kick out the door. These criteria do not equal the criteria of the people that hang out on a forum like this.

See the difference?

Is it a great product? You bet it is. For absolute swirl free results does M105 need to be followed with secondary polishing steps? Yes, if you want swirl free results in any kind of lighting conditions.

Mike, well said !

I can see M105 is for bodyshops and used car dealers or detailers doing alot of daily driver, but I can't understand why anyone who is a car enthusiast or details their own cars would use an aggressive product like M95 or M105 ?

Seems people just want to try out a new product thats on the block even if it doesn't suit their applications !

[Junebug]

Re: #105 vs. #95

I tried 105 and I'm one of the old school guys that had an issue with the new technique. I'm looking at something that fits my style of polishing, I don't mind taking it slow and following up with a second step. I'm also a bit nervous of the amount of clear I could potentially take off with a powerful compound like 105. Therefore, I humbly ask the veterans here - in your opinion, would I be better off with 95 (supposed to have a more traditional working time) or should I stick to 85 or 84?

BTW, I salute all that mastered 105, I tried my best and in the end, I made a mess in the shop, sent 4 pads to the washer and added a hour to the detail I was working on. But I never learned to rollar skate and at 48, I ain't about to try that again either!

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Thank you for your clarification sir. Understand M105 will need a softer polish afterwards ( but with a rotary or a DA / ROB? ).

Yes, you will need to do at least one more polishing step, and even a third depending upon how the paint itself is reacting to being polished and your goals for the finish quality.

It would be normal for someone shooting for a show car finish to follow the compounding step with a cleaner/polish with a rotary buffer and a foam polishing pad and then follow this step with a cleaner/polish or cleaner/wax using a DA Polisher to insure no swirls in bright light condition.

How long did you had to work in the M105 + rotary to finish up the front bonnet up to the 2nd pic?


Again, mind telling us how long M105 took to finish this front bonnet, up to bfr the 2nd milder polishing step ( M80 )?

It's been a while since we did that job and we don't usually watch a clock when we're working as we're not about speed, we're about finish quality, see this article.

If we had to guess we would guess that from the time we brought the buffing pad down onto the paint and then turned the buffer off it was at least an hour but less than 2 hours. That would include some dedicated time for all the outside edges of the panel. (You have to be more careful around edges and thus it takes more time and the goal is the removal of ALL sanding marks, not some percentage).

That's just a guess, again we don't time ourself when working on a car.

[Scottwax]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Not bad for an AGGRESSIVE CUTTING COMPOUND and a WOOL CUTTING PAD

Still stuns me how good a finish I can get with #105. On PPG CeramiClear using #105 with an 8006 polishing pad @ 1000 rpms, it not only takes out holograms left by the dealer hack who prepped the car, but the spider swirls as well and left the paint about 95% hologram free.

[sneek]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Awesome! I need to find a way to get some of this stuff!

[poyo]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Thank you for more insight on M105 sir, it is greatly appreciated. Hand application!!! How is the cut compared to Scratch X? Much faster?

This makes me more and more impatient to get M105!

Meguiar's DOES NOT RECOMMEND M105 for use with a random-orbital machine.

Although it is NOT recommended for use with a random-orbital, I had much success using M105, a G100, and a W9006 tan pad, on this particular car.

As a professional (I've been detailing for well over twenty years, and used Meguiar's for over thirty years.), if I decide to use a product in a manner that goes against the recommendation set forth by Meguiar's, I realize that any detrimental effects of doing so are ENTIRELY MY RESPONSIBILITY.

It's my belief that anyone using the PROFESSIONAL Mirror Glaze line of Meguiar's products should be an enthusiast of car care, and as such, have a grasp on the philosophy that paint-systems can react differently to similar products and processes.

M105 requires a very specific application technique to realize results worthy of a final-polish. I'd rather not post the specifics, as I do not wish to circumvent the recommendations of Meguiar's.

My suggestion to that anyone interested in M105 is to first use it as intended- That is, applied via hand and/or rotary application. Once you've experienced it firsthand, you'll be better educated on its abilities.

You will love its flexibility.

FYI- I DID NOT follow up with any other machine-applied polish.
I DID use M81 Hand Polish, however, as I feel that it leaves the paint as clean and fresh as it will ever get before applying a wax.

The moment paint is exposed to air, it immediately starts to degrade. The oils in Hand Polish remove any fresh oxidation, leave a micro-fine coating of protection until a wax or polymer is applied.

[Kevin Brown]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Meguiar's DOES NOT RECOMMEND M105 for use with a random-orbital machine.

Although it is NOT recommended for use with a random-orbital, I had much success using M105, a G100, and a W9006 tan pad, on this particular car.

As a professional (I've been detailing for well over twenty years, and used Meguiar's for over thirty years.), if I decide to use a product in a manner that goes against the recommendation set forth by Meguiar's, I realize that any detrimental effects of doing so are ENTIRELY MY RESPONSIBILITY.

It's my belief that anyone using the PROFESSIONAL Mirror Glaze line of Meguiar's products should be an enthusiast of car care, and as such, have a grasp on the philosophy that paint-systems can react differently to similar products and processes.

M105 requires a very specific application technique to realize results worthy of a final-polish. I'd rather not post the specifics, as I do not wish to circumvent the recommendations of Meguiar's.

My suggestion to that anyone interested in M105 is to first use it as intended- That is, applied via hand and/or rotary application. Once you've experienced it firsthand, you'll be better educated on its abilities.

You will love its flexibility.

FYI- I DID NOT follow up with any other machine-applied polish.
I DID use M81 Hand Polish, however, as I feel that it leaves the paint as clean and fresh as it will ever get before applying a wax.

The moment paint is exposed to air, it immediately starts to degrade. The oils in Hand Polish remove any fresh oxidation, leave a micro-fine coating of protection until a wax or polymer is applied.

[poyo]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Thank you for your clarification sir. Understand M105 will need a softer polish afterwards ( but with a rotary or a DA / ROB? ).

Just to point out, it's real easy to make an aggressive and fast cutting compound, heck we have these in our Mold Release Line for removing #600 grit sanding marks out of epoxy molds, if used on an automotive finish it would level the paint off the car right down to bare metal.

So there's more to making a good compound than adding some aggressive, fast cutting abrasives to some kind of carrying-agent. Remember, for most of us the goal is always more than working fast, it's about creating a masterpiece, that's where polishing paint becomes an art form. M105 cuts fast and then polishes out leaving a very nice finish. It will still need at least a second polishing step to remove swirls instilled by the rotary buffer, (anything rotating on the surface of paint is always likely to leave circular scratches that show up as buffer swirls or holograms in good lighting), and your cutting pad.

I've only used the M105 on the Joker Hood, this was cured paint, not fresh and not soft. We finished the hood with the Abralon #4000 grit foam sanding pads and used the M105 with a wool cutting pad to remove the sanding marks. It took two applications of product for each section we buffed to completely remove all sanding marks, not just make the paint shiny again. (There's a huge difference).

As always the best thing for people to do is to test our product against whatever product they're currently using or thinking of going with and make up your own mind based upon your real-world experience actually using both products.

Depends upon who you are and what your goals are. Remember,

This is a product primarily made for?

(This is a test, see if you can answer the question correctly)

Body shops don't normally shoot for the kind of results the people on this forum and forums like MOL are always talking about. Body shops, for the most part are "Production Shops", the goal is to paint the car and not have to buff it at all. If the car has to be buffed these guys want a cutting compound that will remove the sanding marks quickly and look good enough kick out the door. These criteria do not equal the criteria of the people that hang out on a forum like this.

See the difference?

Is it a great product? You bet it is. For absolute swirl free results does M105 need to be followed with secondary polishing steps? Yes, if you want swirl free results in any kind of lighting conditions.

How long did you had to work in the M105 + rotary to finsih up the front bonnet up to the 2nd pic?

Before - Machine sanded with the Mirka Abralon System, first with #1000, then #2000, and finishing with #4000


After - This is just the M105 Compound using a wool cutting pad, not other polishing done to the paint at the time this photo was taken.


Not bad for an AGGRESSIVE CUTTING COMPOUND and a WOOL CUTTING PAD

Again, mind telling us how long M105 took to finish this front bonnet, up to bfr the 2nd milder polishing step ( M80 )?

We test, test, test....


So you get the best, best, BEST!


I finished this car with M105, G100 orbital, & a W9006... WOW!
Topped with M80 Hand Polish and M16 Paste Wax.

[Sydster]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Can't wait to get hold of a gallon of M105!

[Kevin Brown]

Re: #105 vs. #95

We test, test, test....




So you get the best, best, BEST!


I finished this car with M105, G100 orbital, & a W9006... WOW!
Topped with M81 Hand Polish and M16 Paste Wax.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Before - Machine sanded with the Mirka Abralon System, first with #1000, then #2000, and finishing with #4000


After - This is just the M105 Compound using a wool cutting pad, not other polishing done to the paint at the time this photo was taken.



Not bad for an AGGRESSIVE CUTTING COMPOUND and a WOOL CUTTING PAD

[RaskyR1]

Re: #105 vs. #95

Depends upon who you are and what your goals are. Remember,

This is a product primarily made for?

(This is a test, see if you can answer the question correctly)

Body Shops? For removing wet-sanding scratches...

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #105 vs. #95

So.......
105 can be used from start to finish. Just maybe change out the pads and you're set?

Depends upon who you are and what your goals are. Remember,

This is a product primarily made for?

(This is a test, see if you can answer the question correctly)


Body shops don't normally shoot for the kind of results the people on this forum and forums like MOL are always talking about. Body shops, for the most part are "Production Shops", the goal is to paint the car and not have to buff it at all. If the car has to be buffed these guys want a cutting compound that will remove the sanding marks quickly and look good enough kick out the door. These criteria do not equal the criteria of the people that hang out on a forum like this.

See the difference?

Is it a great product? You bet it is. For absolute swirl free results does M105 need to be followed with secondary polishing steps? Yes, if you want swirl free results in any kind of lighting conditions.