HARD Camaro paint

[Don]

I HAD a nice detailed write-up about my first encounter between my Camaro, my PC and Megs Ultimate Compound, but due to the wonders of technology, I lost the whole thing, and I am NOT typing it all over again. Suffice it to say that the previous owner of my car did great with mechanical maintenance, but on cosmetic upkeep, not so much. There are plenty of RIDS, bird etchings (that are not going to come out) etc as well as paint chips on the edges here and there. All in all though, not bad for a 3 year old, non detailer car.

Using a Megs maroon cutting pad w/Megs Ult Compound & speed 5 on the PC, I was able to get the hood and roof to about 95%. THEN it started getting colder and windier, so I skimped a bit on the sides and got them to maybe 75-80% and the front and rear ends, I cheated entirely and just used Megs A-12 Cleaner wax on them for the present time.

Now despite using the most aggressive pad/compound combination that I have, I left NO haze or other "side effect" defects on the car. There are still plenty of RIDS left as well as a few bird etchings, but for now, it's 100% better. I'm going to TRY not to get too ... uptight ... about minor defects seeing as how a black car shows them all, but we all know how that goes ...

I DID manage to (sort of) figure out my wife's phone and get a few pics. They're not the best and PLEASE ignore the dew and frost on the tops of the car, but here she is after UC and a coat of Collinite Insulator Wax ... you can REALLY put the Insulator on THIN, THIN, THIN when you have a black car.

[Top Gear]

Re: HARD Camaro paint

Yep. Porter Cable, Ultimate Compound, burgundy foam cutting pad, black car with hard paint. Check! That's how I got started with Meguiar's I've spent many, many, many hours, and got a lot of exercise getting physically aggressive, trying in vain to get true compounding with that combo, and it's just not possible on hard paint, in my experience. Great products, but not for this application.

The burgundy foam cutting pad is basically a waste of time, I've found. Thick foam is great to learn on, and may be fine for spreading wax, but microfiber pads will be far, far superior for any application. That alone will make a huge difference and you'll probably be able to get 100% results. I'll never use foam again.

The next culprit is Ultimate Compound, which is a fine compound, don't get me wrong, but it's just not very aggressive for hard paint. Again, it's a "consumer safe" product intended for the widest possible customer base, as is anything sold in Walmart. Try looking for a professional compound that's a whole step more aggressive, and that will not be D300, M105 (on which UC is based), or others. You'll want to look for M100 or M101. M101 on an MF DA pad (hence DAMF) will be a dream come true, and you won't have to get aggressive to get the work done.

You can get the Meguiar's pads and compounds from the online retailers. Believe me, you won't look back, either

[The Guz]

Re: HARD Camaro paint

I am failryl certain Don has the new thin foam pads. The new burgundy cutting pad is completely redesigned and is made of different foam than the previous pads that you are using. The new burgundy foam pad cuts almost as good as a microfiber cutting pad but will finish out better.

[Don]

Re: HARD Camaro paint

I am failryl certain Don has the new thin foam pads. The new burgundy cutting pad is completely redesigned and is made of different foam than the previous pads that you are using. The new burgundy foam pad cuts almost as good as a microfiber cutting pad but will finish out better.

Yes, I'm using the new thin pads and they are fairly aggressive. I COULD have gone more aggressive than UC, but isn't the mantra: "Start with the least aggressive method?" Knowing that I was facing hard paint that had been neglected, UC + a maroon pad WAS the least aggressive that I could start with, especially considering I only used the PC on a 5, not a 6 and I didn't go hog wild on pressure and amount of passes since I was experimenting on this 'new to me' paint finish.

[Top Gear]

Re: HARD Camaro paint

The thin pads are better than the thick, but it's still foam, and microfiber is just better. Sounds like you answered your own question about UC. It's just not strong enough for hard paint with difficult defects (nor will M105 be, either), and due to that, your foam pads will wear out much faster as you press harder and spin faster trying to get results. Even on MF pads, UC on hard paint is very likely not going to be enough. Great product, but not for this. You can get some awesome powered claying and basic correction done with UC or D300 (like paint transfer or minor scratches, sanding marks/haze, etc), but the more difficult defects like heavy spiderwebs, buffer holograms, pigtails, etc, are going to wear you completely out long before UC actually cuts them (you'll just give up, cover them with polishing oils and wax, and hope not notice them). Even M101 on MF, which is far beyond UC, is going to have its limits on super-hard paint, and that's when wet-sanding comes in. Even if you don't have that much defect, the time and effort saved by using something more aggressive than UC will be wonderful. So, the common freak out about being aggressive is actually bad advice when it comes to hard paint. It's more important, I've learned, to pick the right tool for the job.

[drumdan]

Re: HARD Camaro paint

Try d300/microfiber cutting pad.

I did a 99 Camaro z28 - black, with insane hard paint.

I started off with a LC Cyan Hydrotech cutting pad, and Menzerna FG400 on a Flex 3401. It was working, but took a long time and tons of pressure. Then I switched pads to a LC microfiber, and it was the same. Switched to the PC, and employed the d300/dmc5 pad, and enjoyed the benefits of the using a random orbit machine, much less, but still firm pressure, and outstanding results. I finished with M66 on a foam finishing pad. That customer has already re-booked, and sent me another client.

I had a similar thing happen with polishing a black BMW. Again, started with the Flex/Cyan h20/FG400, and was very disappointed. Then tried M100. Then the Rupes Duetto with their blue microfiber pad, and Zephir compound. Unfortunately my shroud was worn, and it was free spinning as if a washer was installed. This dried out my compound, and made for a huge dust mess. Finally, I brought out the PC. I went to my trusted green hex logic pad, and M100. Done. That combination tore through the swirls with ease. That wasn't the first or last time that happened either. The first time I used that green pad, and UC was the first time I ever used a PC, and I burned some paint.

I've since replaced the shroud on my Duetto, and already the compound is behaving much better, and I'm getting better performance out of it. I'm thinking of selling that Flex 3401 though. That's a lot of money to be getting displaced by a lowly PC time after time.

[drumdan]

Re: HARD Camaro paint

Double post

[Top Gear]

Re: HARD Camaro paint

That's interesting about the Flex. I don't feel so bad for not having one, then

Also, not to be ignored is the Xtra Cut (DXCx) MF disc, which again, is a whole step more aggressive than the DMCx. The DXC has no cushion, but just a thin layer of velcro with the MF fabric, so everything the backing plate does is transferred to the paint. That disc with D300 and UC and a lot of work was just barely enough for my application, before I replaced UC with M101. The DXC cuts quite well, and requires careful technique as it can easily leave pigtails and other defects of its own. If so, I can get those out with the DMC and D300. Now that I have M101, though, I don't need the Xtra Cut as much, and those two together just might be what finally gets dangerous on my diamond-hard paint.

D300 is a really great compound, and I use it a lot. I love how it helps make the Detailer Blue look, and I often use it as an extra step between M101 and D302. For tough, mysterious defects like trails and such, though, D300 can dust (pink) a lot when worked too hard. That's part of my point about these compounds. Using the least aggressive methods on hard paint means having to overwork the pad, liquid, machine, and my back