Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by KC

[Eldorado2k]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

I finally got the paint to cooperate.
This time I used Shampoo Plus instead of Gold Class and began drying immediately after rinsing instead of messing around with the blower 1st.
The car is back in my cool book

[Top Gear]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

Sure seems like an odd situation. They're paying a pro to wash their car, but they never wax it? Scratchin' my head.

I guess I'd wash with UWW instead, for one thing. Then, dry with D156 and maybe two towels, a wet one and a wax one. This will put at least a minor layer of something down on the neglected surface for any spots to sit atop, but you'll be putting a QW wipe over that and it will be protected, if not corrected.

[Eldorado2k]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

I have a blower, and I do flood.. However within a second of flooding appear water spots from a previous rinse. I know that sounds weird and I've never had a car's paint be this finicky.. It's the only car that requires me to apply pressure while trying to dry it, which I don't normally like to do.

As far as products, I guess I was looking for someone to confirm and possibly explain how D156 removes quik water stains after a wash. My thinking is since it's a spray wax without any cleaners, could it backfire and seal the waterspots into the paint instead of cleaning them off? Maybe I'm overthinking it?

I was thinking about trying D156 in place of D115 which was super hard/rough to apply/remove last time I attempted on this car.

I think I'll just do everyone [customer and I] a favor and recommend a light polish & wax. I believe that's what this cars paint is begging for.

[davey g-force]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

Eldorado, any of those you mentioned would work. It depends what you have on hand, and what's important to you/your customer.

- D156 would be the most durable
- UWWA would be the safest and offer most lubricity
- LT is the most economical and is still a great product (under-rated IMO)

[Top Gear]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

If no blower, I'd try to flood, then wipe with UWWA/D115 and/or UQW/D156 (GCQW in my case).

[Eldorado2k]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

I just got called to wash this car again.. I've never really had the need to use a "drying aid" until now. What would you guys recommend to wipe off the possible water spots after the wash? D156, D115, or D114?

And what if anything would be even more fit for the situation? Last Touch? UQD?

[KC's]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

How is the air pollution there? I was wondering if it's the reason for the bad water spots you've been showing us or if it's because of neglect to the cars.

Thakns Glocker for asking

Our tropic climate is hot through out the year + lots of acids rain =water spots

[GLOCKer]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

How is the air pollution there? I was wondering if it's the reason for the bad water spots you've been showing us or if it's because of neglect to the cars.

[KC's]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

Very nice work as always KC!

Thanks buddy Davey G for your kind words

The paint on that Benz looks identical to the paint on a 2013 Mercedes E350 Bluetech that I've cleaned a couple of times now.. Boy oh boy that car is a PITA to wash!

1st time I washed it [Gold Class Shampoo] I was forced to do it in the full sun and it was about 85 degrees out.. You can imagine.. Things got a bit weird after I was done with the initial drying as there were visible holograms over the paint. No rotary swirls at all. Simply holograms. I used D115 after the wash and even though it was literally smoking on contact with the black paint, it was able to save my butt and remover the water spots from washing in the heat.

Next time I washed it in ideal conditions [6am] and made sure not to waste any time and kept it fresh with water the whole time, washing 1 side of the car, rinsing, and moving along. Did a final sheet, and the most gentle drying of the little amount of water with a clean Water Magnet. I moved into the interior figuring the outside was finished.. As I was nearly done with the interior the sun began to come up and once it did I noticed fresh water spots all over the car from the final rinse! What the heck.. Could the water coming out of the hose be be the cause? Or could it be a case of the most finicky paint I've ever come across? I only live 2 blocks away and I've never had a problem with the water spotting paint. I'm no expert on water so my 1st guess is it's the car.

So now that there's spots all over the car I begin a D115 wipedown. But since the car doesn't have a proper coat of wax I'm almost cringing though the wipedown, afraid I'm causing swirls because the paint's so dry.. Water spots came clean, and it already had swirls.

At this point I'm somewhat convinced that paint was purposely engineered to not play nice.

LOL
very very well said

I agree

[Eldorado2k]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

The paint on that Benz looks identical to the paint on a 2013 Mercedes E350 Bluetech that I've cleaned a couple of times now.. Boy oh boy that car is a PITA to wash!

1st time I washed it [Gold Class Shampoo] I was forced to do it in the full sun and it was about 85 degrees out.. You can imagine.. Things got a bit weird after I was done with the initial drying as there were visible holograms over the paint. No rotary swirls at all. Simply holograms. I used D115 after the wash and even though it was literally smoking on contact with the black paint, it was able to save my butt and remover the water spots from washing in the heat.

Next time I washed it in ideal conditions [6am] and made sure not to waste any time and kept it fresh with water the whole time, washing 1 side of the car, rinsing, and moving along. Did a final sheet, and the most gentle drying of the little amount of water with a clean Water Magnet. I moved into the interior figuring the outside was finished.. As I was nearly done with the interior the sun began to come up and once it did I noticed fresh water spots all over the car from the final rinse! What the heck.. Could the water coming out of the hose be be the cause? Or could it be a case of the most finicky paint I've ever come across? I only live 2 blocks away and I've never had a problem with the water spotting paint. I'm no expert on water so my 1st guess is it's the car.

So now that there's spots all over the car I begin a D115 wipedown. But since the car doesn't have a proper coat of wax I'm almost cringing though the wipedown, afraid I'm causing swirls because the paint's so dry.. Water spots came clean, and it already had swirls.

At this point I'm somewhat convinced that paint was purposely engineered to not play nice.

[davey g-force]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

Very nice work as always KC!

[KC's]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

Thanks, KC. I've seen that chart, and others. Just trying to get a good feel for what to reasonably expect.

Recently, with DAMF, I've used some left over UC from a previous setup on the MF Xtra Cut and Cutting Discs at max speed and pressure on some very hard paint. I found UC to cut noticeably more than D300. With UC/Xtra Cut, I'd do say 4 pass/loads and then come back with D300/Cutting to remove marring and smooth it out with maybe 2 pass/loads. In some areas, I went to 1500/3000 sanding, because even with so many passes, the cut was just not enough. The sanding marks/haze come out instantly with D300/Cutting.

So, this is why I've been looking at M101.

Thanks Top Gear for sharing, I have not tried D300 to what i gather is less aggressive than M105...M101 is more aggressive if it is to be used on a rotary! highly recommend on DA!

I had to use the most aggressive way to dealt with this water spots! I choose M101 with rotary....

Frankly speaking we are not so fortunate....to access all kind of product here.....with limited choice and hardly affordable . since M101 available I grab it


just to give u a scenario, M205 per gallon cost - USD 160 here and i just refill 2 ......

given me a choice, I would buy every one of it and try if i am in states.....have fun working out your car and suggesting you to try on other car to enlarge your working experience! it is always good to re attempt your car later

[Top Gear]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

Thanks, KC. I've seen that chart, and others. Just trying to get a good feel for what to reasonably expect.

Recently, with DAMF, I've used some left over UC from a previous setup on the MF Xtra Cut and Cutting Discs at max speed and pressure on some very hard paint. I found UC to cut noticeably more than D300. With UC/Xtra Cut, I'd do say 4 pass/loads and then come back with D300/Cutting to remove marring and smooth it out with maybe 2 pass/loads. In some areas, I went to 1500/3000 sanding, because even with so many passes, the cut was just not enough. The sanding marks/haze come out instantly with D300/Cutting.

So, this is why I've been looking at M101.

[KC's]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

So, your unhelpful answer seems to be that you do not know of any real difference between these products. M101 is no different than UC, except costing 3 times more and being available only by mail order. Thanx. What a pro.

apologies top gear, if my answer is not what you are looking for

i am not sure yuor UC referes






to put everything in perspective

Ultimate compound can be applied by hands and it has lower cuts where as if you use M101 by hand on black.......opssssss hazes appear
both are made for different market and preference....

Facts
Ultimate Compound is a little stronger than M83, which is about 6 out of 12 on the cutting scale. M105 is a 12 out of 12 on the cutting scale.

Michael confirmed both M105 and M101 rated both equal on the scale at 12, http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...Compound/page4

both are make for same purpose but for different market or cars and paint make. I choose M101 over M105, is because i work on mostly european cars and with foam pad

you may want to refer to the chart to view better

[Top Gear]

Re: Mercedes-Benz C 250 CGI Severely Water mineral deposit and water Mark rescue by K

So, your unhelpful answer seems to be that you do not know of any real difference between these products. M101 is no different than UC, except costing 3 times more and being available only by mail order. Thanx. What a pro.