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The car looks great, you did an awesome job. The condition of the paint in the "before" stage looked like what you'd find at shows around here. Great work making it REALLY show worthy.
As for the Kevlar - it's used in automotive parts for the same reason that carbon fiber is: it's light and strong. You have to remember that in carbon fiber parts, the carbon is only giving tensile strength to the part, the almost all the of stiffness comes from the resin used to mold the part - the carbon that is used is actually a fabric that is then soaked with resin. Same with Kevlar.
Thanks man! This was the car that I wanted to use a boutique wax on. But I never got around to buying the souveran. Before I knew it, he calls me up and says "hey, can you detail the NSX this thursday?"
So that's why I ended up using the only boutique product I had which was CG's 5050.
But for the next detail, I'm pretty sure I'm going to coat this monster with some Souveran or other boutique wax.
The car looks great, you did an awesome job. The condition of the paint in the "before" stage looked like what you'd find at shows around here. Great work making it REALLY show worthy.
As for the Kevlar - it's used in automotive parts for the same reason that carbon fiber is: it's light and strong. You have to remember that in carbon fiber parts, the carbon is only giving tensile strength to the part, the almost all the of stiffness comes from the resin used to mold the part - the carbon that is used is actually a fabric that is then soaked with resin. Same with Kevlar.
Kevlar isn't as common because it's not AS light as Carbon, and it really isn't as pretty as carbon either. Because of the weight difference, it's not used in racing cars as extensively or visibly, and therefore isn't as desirable to people wanting to give the "race car" look.
Nice detail!! May I ask what the point of Kevlar parts is? I mean if you hit something with that much power its still going to break or bend at least.
Cool car though.
Well my understanding of why he went with Kevlar parts is because of it's rarity when used on cars.
I think that kevlar front lip is only 1 of two in the whole USA or something like that.
Otherwise, I'd say it's mostly for looks. He based his entire car on somewhat of a military style, so that wherever anybody see's his car it will be instantly recognized.
Finally was able to do my buddy's NSX. This thing was a beast of a machine. He has a nitrous setup that will push it to 400whp.
400whp in a 2900lb mid-engine rear wheel drive = Insanity.
It's has Kevlar parts like the rear wing, rear diffuser, engine bay cover, front lip etc. hence the name "Bulletproof NSX"
Here's what it usually looks like
It's also our flagship show car, but without the flagship paint quality. The car had the usual RIDS, a lot of micromarring, hazing, swirls etc. Definitely not show quality paint. The kevlar front lip was off for this detail.
Things were a little complicated for this detail. For one, I only had under 7 hours to complete it because it's getting trailered to go to a car show this weekend in San Diego. Second, the car has been repainted in various areas. So some of the paint was harder and others were softer.
I opted to use my new Makita 9227c. On some panels, I could easily just do 1 or 2 solid passes with M205 and get most of the defects out. On other panels, I did 3 or 4 and it didn't do anything, which forced me to go to M105.
All in all, it's perhaps one of my more successful details as far as results that I'm personally pleased with, and given the fact I finished it within the 7 hour deadline.
The basic process:
Exterior:
1. ONR
2. APC on the Wheels
3. Meg's MAG & Aluminum polish on the wheel lips
4. Clay Block w/ 1:1 LT
5. M105 on the harder clear and ScratchX2.0 for RIDS, followed by M205
6. M205 on most of the car
7. IPA Wipe Down
8. 2x CG's 5050
9. Last Touch for final wipedown
(I wanted to do a glaze, but started running low on time.)
Interior:
1. Detailer Leather Cleaner and Conditioner
2. 10:1 APC on various parts that needed cleaning
3. Hyper Dressing
4. Quick Vaccuum (not much to vaccuum, but did it anyway)
5. Cleaned Door Jams
Engine Bay:
1. Hyper Dressing on rubbers and plastics
2. APC+ on certain parts
(Engine bay was overall pretty clean to being with too)
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