2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

[humblepie]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

Final set of before shots are in. I ordered the web album such that you start from the hood and then you go around the car.

I think I'll have time on Friday morning to wash, clay and do some spot tests.

I believe I can use PlastX for this rear tail light, but since I don't have it, for now I'll try to do a spot test by hand w/ the M205 to see what kind of results I get.



I'm wondering if you can use PlastX on this mid trim here. It looks like just plastic but it seems that there's a thick clear coating over the plastic. I guess I'll try the M205 here first as well.



This dent/scratch here is the worst cosmetic blemish my car has. I'm hoping that a paintless dent repair place can fix it for ~$50 if not I'll just live with it. I can feel how much of the paint is gone from the dent so I doubt there's no polish in the world that can help me here.

[volvie!]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

Hi Humblepie,

I love how you started this thread from the very beginning, explaining your objectives and reasoning behind your product choices!

Speaking as another newbie to the full detailing process, I find this very illuminating!

I'm looking forward to following your progress!

Good luck,
volvie!

[Nappers]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

Hurry up!

Can't wait to see what you get done!

[Woodie6250]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

Great thread humblepie. I really enjoy the fact that you've started from the very beginning and have provided the photos to display the starting point .

I am rather envious of the fact that you are able to get such good deals and the latest products from ADS so quickly. Living across the waters from you in sunny South Africa, I will have to wait several months before the 2009 range of products are available to me via the local Meguiars distributor .

[humblepie]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

Haha, thanks for the feedback guys.

I was a little surprised to find that there weren't any 'worklog' like posts at MOL. I got this idea from the water cooling forum I joined a few years back when I decided to venture into the world of water cooling my PC. I suppose a good percentage of the MOL members are professionals so I guess they need not explain such steps from the get go hehe.

But just as a disclaimer and 'in the spirit of Mike Phillips', I hope you guys make you're own informed decisions and take everything I do with a grain of salt.

[roushstage2]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

Kudos to you! I am enjoying this post very much from the get-go, and it is not even finished yet! I look forward to seeing the end result of your work!

[humblepie]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

Phase 2: Wash, Clay and Spot Test
I suggest to for first time users to wash your towels ahead of time to get rid of all that 'fuzzy stuff'.

Washing

I used the measure in a cup trick to dilute the NXT car wash properly. I used roughly 70ml of NXT with 2.5 gallons of water. For those of you without a chemistry set to measure the NXT wash w/ a beaker. I just used a measuring cup, but since the cup only started at 100ml. I poured 200ml of water into the measuring cup, then removed ~70ml of water into the plastic cup.

According to online conversion, 2 fluid oz = 60ml.

Because I used the two bucket method of washing and rinsing the wash mitt separately. I was able to keep the dilution of NXT wash to water pretty consistent. Also, I realized after the wash that I used less than a gallon of NXT. So next time I'll opt for a smaller usage.

My opinion of the NXT car wash was excellent compared to the Turtle Wax car wash I was using before. Then again, I never really cared to make sure I was diluting the Turtle Wax car wash properly

After you pour the NXT into the wash bucket, make sure to get all the NXT from the plastic cup by scraping w/ your hands and to mix the wash up well w/ the wash mitt.

As for the Grit Guard, I didn't have much dirt / dust on my car so I think it was of minimal benefit for me. If you use the 2 bucket system, unless your car is really dirty, then I doubt there's that much benefit from using the Grit Guard for washing an every day driver.

Drying

I had forgotten how much of a pain it is to dry the car w/o a chamois. I opted to not use it b/c I wanted to use the MF towels instead, but it was sort of inefficient. I think I'll be ordering a magnet to help w/ drying.

Claying

I ran my hand over the trunk and the paint was pretty smooth. The only thing that caught my attention was the slight scraping noise it was making. The noise was signfiicantly less than what I remember from a Meguiar's youtube video that the guy was running his hand over the paint.

I proceeded to clay the trunk and ran my hand over it again. It was slightly smoother and no noise this time

A tip for claying is to go slow. Don't try to rush this process. I think I clayed my car in 30 min, but that's only b/c my grandfather was helping me w/ the wiping, while I clayed. If you tend to rush, then it's much easier for the clay to slip and drop to the floor. Make sure you spray the Quik Detailer evenly over the entire section you'll be claying else the dry paint will grab at the clay and it could drop to the floor.

[humblepie]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

Spot Testing

Web album has been fully updated and organized. It stores the original resolution pics, so you can really zoom in. Here are a few highlights:

I first decided to see how the M205 by hand would work for the plastic mid section and chrome trims. As you can see, something was wrong b/c the color was so black. It ended up that the little bit of black rubber trim was being wiped.



So after I only focused on the plastic it was much better



The finished results look slightly better w/ a quick pass of the M205 by hand. Left panel was unaffected. Right panel is where the M205 was applied.


The problem is with this hazing / hologramming (notice the area where the reflection catches my camera). Perhaps I need to go over the area w/ QD and it will improve a little b/c all the M205 wasn't wiped off completely.



Just for the heck of it, I tried M205 by hand on the paint and it wasn't that effective hehe. But at least, I know it can't be done by hand and that the paint isn't super soft



I sectioned off the trunk into 3 portions. Left (Hand), Mid (Nothing), Right (G110 + M205 w/ w9207)



As you can see, the swirls are still there on the right panel:

I'm not sure what this smudge is. I don't think it was hazing. It's prob some left over residue I didn't get off fully


Left Side (by hand):


Right Side (w/ DA + G110 + w9207)


So as you can tell, there's not that great of an improvement in the swirls. So I decided to 1) move up to the w8207 polishing pad and 2) use the hood has a spot test so that I can hopefully get some better angles.

I noticed that the M205 wasn't evenly spread on the pad even after 2 applications (meaning apply, wipe, apply wipe).


Also, I noticed some of the foam was flaking off the w8207 onto the paint - like glitter. Perhaps the w9207 did this as well, but b/c the w9207 is darker in color I didn't notice the tiny flakes. I think what the flakes of the w8207 indicates is that the pad wasn't primed evenly enough w/ the m205 and that perhaps I was getting close to a dry buff point. Or maybe it's just a new pad and it does this on the first time use

Another thing I forgot about was to clean the pad on the fly. Although w/ a new pad and just spot testing, it probably wouldn't matter that much.

Hood: Left Side (nothing) Right side (M205)

Note: From this camera angle the left side of this picture is the right side of the hood.




After about 2 more passes and varying the pressure applied, I decided to call it a day for now. I took the painter's tape off and took a set of final pics:

It almost appears the top half of this pic (which is the right side of the hood) has slightly less swirls, but it's just barely better (if in fact it is improved)


I noticed some hazing or holograms on the area where I used the DA. This is after I wiped it all down w/ QD. It's hard to tell from the pic, but the sun really makes it apparent.


The car still looks awesome from a few feet away though



Initial spot testing proved to be educational. At some point, all that theory you learn in class has to be put into practice. No matter how much you plan ahead some things you just got to experience first hand.

I might have to purchase the M105 and see if I like those results better than the M205.

I was a little disappointed in the results in that I didn't see much. However, I was able to review what I did and next session I'll be able to improve on it. I signed up for the Saturday class (Jan 24). So hopefully, I'll get some pointers there.

In the meanwhile, if any of you can chime in on tips. It would be much appreciated for the next time I go at it Especially, the hazing/hologram on the hood. Is that the result of my technique or will it go away if I just wax it up?

[humblepie]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

I started thinking about what I can do better next time and here a few thoughts:

1) Tape off exactly (all 4 corners) the area I'm working on to get a precise before/after shots

2) I used speed setting of 4, but I think I'll try 5 this time

3) Apply more pressure to the pad. I think I was only applying a little more pressure than was required for the pad to stay flat on the paint.

4) Work in a smaller area, maybe 12x12 to really work in the product

5) Prime the pad really well - spreading it w/ my fingers evenly over the entire pad.

6) Work the polish longer. I think I only spent a minute on each application and when I swiped my finger on the paint, it was still wet.

[humblepie]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

Just to clarify, the hologram/micro-marring takes the shape of a wave like aurora borealis (pic attached), but the w/ the shininess of a soap bubble. It is evident throughout the entire portion where I spot tested.

I've been reading that perhaps finishing w/ a cleaner wax would be advised for situations like this. I do have the small sampler bottle of Meg's Cleaner Wax, so maybe I should give this a try w/ the w9207.

[Markus Kleis]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

During defect removal you want to basically always use speed setting 5, unless you have a special need to really slow it down.

First things first, bump up the speed.

Next thing to consider is pressure and work time. When I was working with M205 via G110 I noticed a very long work time, but when working a 2x2~ area (or slightly less) I would do 1 quick pass at moderate speed and pressure to spread the product, followed by 2-3 passes at a slow speed, with moderate to heavy pressure (making sure the pad kept spinning).

Then, around this point I would generally notice the M205 to start to turn just slightly more white than clear, and spread less easily on the paint. At this point I would make 1 pass at a slow speed, with moderate pressure, making sure that I could see the product on te paint being altered as I passed over. After passing the whole area, I then went to LIGHT pressure and slow speed and passed over the whole area 1-2 passes.

You may want to try shortening the work cycle a little from mine as you *may* have softer paint, which *may* be causing the "holograms." So, try that out, and try a little less pressure on the final passes.

Also, if you get more defect removal from the process I described, but still have holograms, try using that process followed by working the area a second time with a finishing pad and/or less pressure.

[humblepie]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

Thanks Mark.

I'm feeling more confident already. I'll prob give it another go on Friday or next Monday (MLK Day)

[roushstage2]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

When performing defect removal, you are better off starting with the polishing pad as the finishing pads generally won't give you the true correcting ability of the product. Then as Mark said at the end of his post:

Also, if you get more defect removal from the process I described, but still have holograms, try using that process followed by working the area a second time with a finishing pad and/or less pressure.

Also, if you order M105, make sure it's the new D/A approved formula and not the "original."

[Mike Phillips]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

Hi Daniel,

Just replied to your question here about bringing your car to Meguiar's Garage and letting us take a look at it.

January 24th - Saturday Open Class - Car Care 101


Mark already touched on the speed setting tip, also if you haven't already, make some marks on the back of your backing plate so you can easily tell when the pad is rotating and when it's not rotating as swirls are removed best when the pad is rotating.

I also checked with Lenny House back in New Jersey just now on the phone. He had a black, 2008 Infinity G35 or G37, he doesn't remember except it was a 4-door.

Lenny is an accomplished and professional detailer and he said that nothing they tried would bring the finish to perfection, it always had some amount of swirling on it. He has every correction product, every type of buffing pad and machine and all the waxes you can name and said it was frustrating because they just couldn't get the paint to perfection. It started out swirled from the dealership, was taken to a couple other detailers where it was swirled out more and then finally brought to Lenny's shop where Lenny was able to undo all the damage instilled by previous detailers but he could not get it 100% perfection.

At the time, M205 was not out yet so he didn't have M205 to try.

If you haven't dialed in a recipe for success for your car's paint by the 24th, try to come to Meguiar's Garage about an hour early and we'll see if we can't science out a successful approach before the class starts.

We love a challenge!

[Firstson]

Re: 2008 Infiniti M35: Detailing Worklog

Hey humblepie, its been a while since i posted here but i've been studying for the last 2 years and come a long way. I keep my 2007 Dodge magnum almost pristine these days but it took me a while to really figure out the key to getting a good finish, i constantly had trouble with micro-marring when i first starting polishing. First i noticed you talked about spreading the product with your finger, and i know every suggestion or videa i've seen or heard suggest simply spreading a ring around the pad and then spreading it evenly over your work surface before you work it in.
Biggest discovery was that of work time, i read once that micro-marring may be caused by not working the product long enough, and sure enough, theres always more time than you may thing. When i work product, #80 is still my standard with an 8006 pad, i work until the product is almost completely clear with almost a look of baby oil spread over the panel. As long as your finger swiped across the product easily leaves a trail your good. Not working the product long enough could be your problem, thats where i found my magic solution. Best of luck!!!

Peace