Shine It!!

[the other pc]

I don't think the heat generated during buffing will have any effect on the abrasives. They're made of materials that should be stable at temperatures beyond anything you'll ever see buffing. You will see solvents and oils drying a lot faster.

Mainly it's the effect on the paint itself. As the temperature goes up its workability characteristics will change. Of course if you keep heating the paint it will fail and/or burn.

Perhaps some products need the paint to heat up and soften for their abrasives to work. I think Meguiar's uses abrasives that work regardless.

Orbital and DA buffers are less effective because they transfer less power into the process. That's the reason they generate less heat at the surface.


PC.

[rusty bumper]

Originally posted by Superior Shine
I buff most of the time at about 1000 - 1400 RPM. I produce very little if any heat. It works for me.

Must be friction that does all the work then.

[Ranger72]

I work in the same range (give or take) as Joe. Very rarely do I buff above 1500.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Pit-lane.dk
With Meguiar's compounds........I assume….

Since heat does not matter, do you then find the PC or the Cyclo as effective as the rotary..............

Pit-lane.dk

Machines other than the rotary buffer don't offer the power/force require to effectively work the abrasives used in products like M84, M85, M01, M04, against the finish to optimize the cleaning action.

The cleaning action is more than merely abrading paint, it's abrading paint aggressively to start with and then this cleaning action is reduced in its aggressiveness over time as the abrasives break down. At the same time the defects in the paint are being removed, and the abrasion marks first created by the abrasives in the compound are being removed, or polished-out by the action of the diminishing abrasives as they pulverize into nothingness. All the while, the lubricating film helps to prevent a simple scouring action from taking place.

The cleaning action provided by Meguiar's compounds and paint cleaners for use with a rotary buffer is a more complex process than some might think. It requires a balance of all the right factors to do it right. That's why if you use one of our compounds correctly the defects you're trying to remove will be removed, and the results will be a very shallow swirl left behind that should polish out very easily with a less aggressive product and sometimes with a less aggressive tool.

Non-rotary buffers while with enough time, effort and patience may be able to make one of our compounds work, compared to the results a rotary buffer delivers, its simply not effective and could leave the finish with deeper swirls and scratches.

[Teak]

The MG look great after all of your work. Also, the MG would probably be a weekend car to drive up the coast.


Eric

[Superior Shine]

Here is another MG we did today for the same guy. I don't know what year this one is.

The MG was painted with a 2 stage finish. It has tons of swirls and buffer trails.

BEFORE --

[Superior Shine]

AFTER --

[rusty bumper]

[Teak]

The secind MG looks great. What did you use on the second MG?

Did you do a black MG awhile ago for the same owner?

Eric

[Superior Shine]

Thanks fellas,

What a memory you have!! I did a mid 70s black MGB for him about 4-5 years ago.

It was an awsome before and after but I lost the pics when my computer crashed awhile back.

We hit it with 8006/rotory w/#83, then 8006/PC w/ speed glaze finally topped with #21.

Tires got #40.

[Jeff Smith]

Originally posted by Superior Shine
Thanks fellas,

What a memory you have!! I did a mid 70s black MGB for him about 4-5 years ago.

It was an awsome before and after but I lost the pics when my computer crashed awhile back.

We hit it with 8006/rotory w/#83, then 8006/PC w/ speed glaze finally topped with #21.

Tires got #40.

You sure seem to like that #40 on tires. I have not tried it yet. Does it seem to hold up well over time?

[Superior Shine]

Hard to tell.

[Ranger72]

I use 40 on certain tires, I have found that on smooth flat sidewall tires, like that come stock on most full size pick ups, the shine isnt as nice as a tire with a little more texture. (maybe its just me) It holds up 'OK' but if it rains for a day or two and you drive the car, the shine is gone.
Oh yeah, Joe its looks great!

[Mike Phillips]

M40 is water-based so it won't hold up for long compared to a solvent based dressing. It does leave a very nice look on tires and because it doesn't last, it doesn't build up. This makes cleaning and replenishing easier.

[Superior Shine]

I agree with Mike. I don't like the mud dressing that builds up on tires. When #40 shine has diminished to tire remains black and doesn't turn brown (thats good).

It doesn't rain much in So. Cal. so I apply #40 about every two weeks or so for a clean satin/light gloss look.

This 745s tires wear #40 -