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Thanks for taking the time to post your results. I enjoyed meeting you both at the clinic. Let me know if you need any assistance in the future. I hope to have another advanced clinic this summer. When you are ready lets get a headlight from the junk yard and get you on the fast track to headlight restoration!
Thanks for taking the time to post your results. I enjoyed meeting you both at the clinic. Let me know if you need any assistance in the future. I hope to have another advanced clinic this summer. When you are ready lets get a headlight from the junk yard and get you on the fast track to headlight restoration!
Stephanie
Stephanie,
I think we both look forward to an advanced clinic if you hold one. We really enjoyed the last clinic and as you can tell, you inspired us to do this. I had to bring my own rotary (Makita) tho, Bob wouldn't give his up!
Heck, bring on the headlight(s), fenders, hoods, trunks, tops....WE ARE READY FREDDIE!!
Thanks for taking the time to post your results. I enjoyed meeting you both at the clinic. Let me know if you need any assistance in the future. I hope to have another advanced clinic this summer. When you are ready lets get a headlight from the junk yard and get you on the fast track to headlight restoration!
This is a great post. A good example of getting a Junk yard part and making it shine. This will be something that I will be able to reference. Especially when wet sanding. I gotta start trolling a Junkyard looking for canidates for a hood.
Wow, you guys are just awesome!! What a great, methodical approach to learning the process and with excellent results the first time around. Your sanding looks fantastic; nice and uniform indeed.
We'll be sure to pass this thread along to Stephanie so she can see what she helped you guys get started on.
Great stuff, guys, and thanks for taking the time to document it and post it up here.
Thanks for the kind words Mike. Don and I both really enjoyed ourselves.
Wow, you guys are just awesome!! What a great, methodical approach to learning the process and with excellent results the first time around. Your sanding looks fantastic; nice and uniform indeed.
We'll be sure to pass this thread along to Stephanie so she can see what she helped you guys get started on.
Great stuff, guys, and thanks for taking the time to document it and post it up here.
The thing about wet sanding is, especially if you are working on factory clear-coated paint, if you do it on your car or someone else's, you really have to have a paint thickness gauge., because it is possible to go so deep as to compromise the integrity and UV protection ability of the clear coat.
I agree Mary. If/When I do this on customer vehicles, I would not attempt any wet sanding without a thickness gauge. Too much at risk unless you REALLY know what you're in to and what you are doing.
The hood I have is about 2 or 3 times more scratched up as that one! And the one panel that I wet sanded with 2000, it is the only one I could get really impressive optical clarity on, not even counting the deeper scratches that you can feel with your fingernail. The paint has mild orange peel to start with, but there are also some micro swirl marks that are just deep. They almost have the appearance of metallic paint the way they disperse the reflection, but they are sparse.
The thing about wet sanding is, especially if you are working on factory clear-coated paint, if you do it on your car or someone else's, you really have to have a paint thickness gauge., because it is possible to go so deep as to compromise the integrity and UV protection ability of the clear coat. The one I want to buy costs about $450, and you can pay a lot more for them.
It is also nice to be able to use pneumatic 6" orbitals to do the wet sanding since water and electricity don't mix too well, but you need a totally mondo air compressor to run one of those things. I think Michael Stoops mentioned that with the DA, you don't use as much water as you do by hand.
It would be great to be able to rent the paint gauge from a rental place. They certainly rent things that cost less.
That was awesome, and as stated, that was great documentation. I think it takes discipline sometimes to continue to snap shots when you're enjoying polishing paint. It's really neat to see you guys work together. How much more practice do you feel you'd need before you'd work on a paying customer's car with a rotary?
Cool stuff! Bookmarked.
Mark
Thats a good question. I would really like to work on a few more panels from a few different manufacturers. Since most companies use different paints, I think it would be good to see how the products effect different paints. Make sense? After my test panels, I would probably try the rotary on my own or maybe family members cars. i just realize how much it would cost to re spray someones hood or something so I want to be sure I am comfortable.
That was awesome, and as stated, that was great documentation. I think it takes discipline sometimes to continue to snap shots when you're enjoying polishing paint. It's really neat to see you guys work together. How much more practice do you feel you'd need before you'd work on a paying customer's car with a rotary?
Bob
Wanna thank you again for the day, your hospitality and generosity. I had a blast working that hood and learned alot (far cry from pro) about the rotary, wet sanding and product/pad mixing. I would recommend this to anyone. Let's do it again soon. I bet the guys at the junk yard would take that hood back in a second and sell it for DOUBLE the $$ he would had sold it for previously. Let's get that blue one I picked out and work it.
You Rock Dude............and it was a pleasure meeting your wife!
Don
No worries man. Lets plan something soon. Im gonna SELL that hood back to them ! haha
But i only weight 138 pounds, how can i go out of a store $300 lighter hahahaha, i would have died.
Great job man.
I think after the 2k grit paper, you could have used 3k paper.
Also i saw your motion in the picture doing straight lines usually you turn the sandind pad like an angle of 20* degrees and then you do straight lines from there.
Great try btw.
Keep it up
Thanks. I will try rotating the sanding pad next time. Thanks for the advice.
Great photo-documentation and a great instructional resource for anyone wanting to learn rotary buffing. I'm bookmarking your thread for future reference! Thanks guys!
Awesome! Im glad you found this helpful. It was really good experience to use so many different combos. It really helps to SEE what they can do together.
How much pressure do you think you were using compared to say a G110? What speeds were you using? Is the yellow pad just a 8707(don't know exact number) pad?
Thanks again man.
Like Don stated. We pretty much used the weight of the machine most of the time. Especially with the wool-105 combo, there really was no need for any more pressure. With the polishing pad-205 I did vary the pressure. The pad used was the W8207.
How much pressure do you think you were using compared to say a G110? What speeds were you using? Is the yellow pad just a 8707(don't know exact number) pad?
Rider,
Speaking for myself when I was operating the rotary, I let the weight of the machine be the "applied pressure" with a little more added for some of the stubborn areas (which were few) and I believe Bob did the same. The speeds were set based on product used (M105 and M205) but was generally at setting 3 to 3.5 which is about 1500 to 1800 rpm. I believe the polishing pad was the W8006 but Bob can correct me if I am wrong. (they were his pads/product we used).
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