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Which Products Need To Dry, Which Ones Don't?

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  • #16
    Re: Which Products Need To Dry, Which Ones Don't?

    Hi agp56,

    I didn't have any problem with the Gold Class Liquid Wax. I just let it dry to a haze like I've done in the past with Liquid Glass and NuFinish. It is the #7 Show Car Glaze polish I am not sure about. Since I just waxed my truck last week with the Gold Class I purchased the #7 this past weekend after the truck already had the wax applied. I had never seen the #7 in Advance, Auto Zone, Pep Boys, O'Rielly, etc. until this weekend. The guy at Auto Zone couldn't answer my questions other than to say they can't keep up with all the Meguiar's products. I can't either...LOL

    I was hoping Michael could answer how long the Gold Class stays on ( a couple weeks, 3 weeks, a month, longer???) before I can polish my truck or if I can polish over the Gold Class now and then top the #7 off with a coat of the Gold Class liquid.

    And the other question is do you just put the #7 on an area of say 3'x3' +/- and immediately start buffing it off (seems like you'll go through a bunch of microfiber towels) or do you wait a minute, 2 minutes, longer??? I am so used to polishing and waxing with products that dry to a haze and then you just buff it off. I might go back to Auto Zone and exchange the #7 for another kind of polish that I am used to or just get my money back since the truck is white and new. Maybe clay baring and waxing is enough.

    On another thread here on Meguiar's I was told that #7 idoes not act as a cleaner/polisher which is contrary to what Michael stated (unless I am reading his post wrong).

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    • #17
      Re: Which Products Need To Dry, Which Ones Don't?

      It is the #7 Show Car Glaze polish I am not sure about. Since I just waxed my truck last week with the Gold Class I purchased the #7 this past weekend after the truck already had the wax applied. I was hoping Michael could answer how long the Gold Class stays on ( a couple weeks, 3 weeks, a month, longer???) before I can polish my truck or if I can polish over the Gold Class now and then top the #7 off with a coat of the Gold Class liquid.
      Lots of people will polish and wax over their existing wax, just have to be certain the surface is clean. Wax is only a microscopic coating, rubbing an oily product across it with an applicator will certainly stir it up. Its not like the polish will float on top and slide off..... Or you can use a paint cleaner first as well.

      So if you want, you can try it anytime. If you want to wait until the wax wears off, could be a while, 3 weeks or 3 months. All depends on your area, if it is garaged, etc.

      And the other question is do you just put the #7 on an area of say 3'x3' +/- and immediately start buffing it off (seems like you'll go through a bunch of microfiber towels) or do you wait a minute, 2 minutes, longer??? I am so used to polishing and waxing with products that dry to a haze and then you just buff it off. I might go back to Auto Zone and exchange the #7 for another kind of polish that I am used to or just get my money back since the truck is white and new. Maybe clay baring and waxing is enough.
      Well, you would do something like a door, apply the product thin, rub it in just a little. Then wipe off the door. With #7, a good technique is to do a big wipe to get the bulk of the product off, then kind of come back and get the left over.

      DC Polish is easy to use, as another option.

      If you wanted, another option would be to clay, then either Cleaner/Wax or ColorX, and then wax. This will let you clean and polish the paint, get the recommended two coats of wax, and let you use products that are meant to dry. Will certainly be an improvement over just waxing.

      On another thread here on Meguiar's I was told that #7 idoes not act as a cleaner/polisher which is contrary to what Michael stated (unless I am reading his post wrong).
      #7 is a pure polish, meaning only polishing oils. As mentioned above, rubbing anything liquid over the paint will have at least a little cleaning effect.
      2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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      • #18
        Re: Which Products Need To Dry, Which Ones Don't?

        Originally posted by SouthTexasRancher View Post
        Thanks for the great info, Michael.

        I clay bar'd and waxed my truck last week with Gold Class Liquid and on Saturday afternoon I was in Auto Zone and saw Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze and purchased a bottle.

        My question is:

        When can the #7 Showcar Glaze be applied to a vehicle with Gold Class Liquid Wax already on the vehicle. A week, month, longer, etc.???
        While you can apply #7 right after applying Gold Class, the best method is to apply a pure polish like #7 first, then apply the wax on top of it. Pure polishes won't stick around very long at all if they are the LSP (last step product - ie, the one on top) so they need a wax to sort of "lock" them down. So the big question is, how long will your application of Gold Class last? Well, that depends on a lot of factors - temp, humidity, rain...exposure in general. Three months with moderate exposure sounds about right, or you could just clay the vehicle quickly to remove the majority of the wax and then apply the #7 following that process, then put on a fresh coat of Gold Class.

        And being that #7 is a "Pure Polish" it lacks true cleaning ability so it alone won't remove your earlier Gold Class application. True, if you work it vigorously enough then the applicator itself will likely pull some wax from the surface, but the #7 won't.

        And if you're struggling to wrap your head around the whole "wipe off while still wet" concept, you're not alone!! What you want to do is work an area about 2' x 2' with a small amount of #7, applying it in much the same way you would apply a wax, but you'll work that small area a bit longer. If you apply #7 with a foam wax applicator pad you'll feel it start to set up and "drag" a bit after a minute or so - that's a good indicator that it's time to stop applying and start removing. But it's a bit of a heavy product, so wipe off is not as simple as wiping off a thin coat of hazed wax. It's not an arm buster (unless you put in on heavy and let it dry - so don't!) but it does take a bit of wiping to remove it.

        Originally posted by Zuke View Post
        If I am using the PRC for correction and following up with a finishing pad, need I let it dry 1st? Also, would this act as a second "coat" since its a AIO?
        PRC can be wiped off almost immediately or allowed to dry, but allowing to dry will get you the better level of protection. But applying it a second time will not get you a second coat since it's a fairly potent cleaner wax - that second application will very effectively remove the first.
        Michael Stoops
        Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

        Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

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        • #19
          Re: Which Products Need To Dry, Which Ones Don't?

          Many thanks, Michael. You answered my question very well. I like the idea of re-clay-bar'ing, then the #7 polish, and finally the Gold Class Liquid Wax.

          And yes you explained the how long after applying the #7 before wiping off by actually polishing somewhat as compared to the apply, allow to dry to a haze and then buff off with a micro-fiber towel the wax.

          Being that I'm in South Texas the 3 month figure would most likely be closer to 6 weeks or so. That's about tops down here for almost any product (even though some companies claim their product lasts a year....yeah right...LOL)

          Anyway you've cleared everything up for me and I definitely appreciate it.

          Mike

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          • #20
            Re: Which Products Need To Dry, Which Ones Don't?

            Thanks also to Murr1525. Nice to find a place where so many are willing to help each other.

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            • #21
              Re: Which Products Need To Dry, Which Ones Don't?

              effective protection

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              • #22
                Re: Which Products Need To Dry, Which Ones Don't?

                this is a very helpful thread, just when you think you've got the jist of everything you learn somethin new! i cant wait to get my car re-sprayed, ive got CC failure

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                • #23
                  Re: Which Products Need To Dry, Which Ones Don't?

                  Originally posted by Caress Detailing View Post
                  Uh oh... I've been using D151 and not letting it fully dry on the paint... However I haven't had any complaints... But looks like I'm going to change my technique and allow it to dry just in case.

                  I was doing the same thing, even do my trailer was looking wonderful I'm going to let it dry next time and see what happens. I usually apply NXT 2.0 after D151 even though its not mandatory

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                  • #24
                    Re: Which Products Need To Dry, Which Ones Don't?

                    wow, thanks for the clarification. i was letting my uc dry and find it a challenge to remove. will apply and wipe off from now on.

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                    • #25
                      Re: Which Products Need To Dry, Which Ones Don't?

                      After taking the 101 class, i tried to tell people they were doing it wrong. Now theres written proof! thanks guys!

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                      • #26
                        Re: Which Products Need To Dry, Which Ones Don't?

                        People still wont believe you....
                        2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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