How do you know when UC is "ready"?

[xilex]

I'm trying to choose between Chemical Guys v38 (DAT) and the Meguiar's UC/UP (SMAT) for hand work. Trying to get rid of some of these --- (see below)


I've never used either product, but wanted to ask how you know when each product is finished. v38 slowly breaks down, so you keep rubbing it until it polishes out. Versus something like UC/UP, which will keep cutting? I'm not sure when I need to stop and wipe it down. Maybe I should stick with UP only? My plan was clay, using one of the polish with a chemical guys hexlogic hand applicator, hope I don't mess it up, then finish with the UW. There's a video of a guy applying v38 by hand and it looked so simple. Thanks.

[BillyJack]

Re: How do you know when UC is "ready"?

The beauty of a DAT product is not having to be concerned about a certain "cycle". You can continue polishing until the job is done (the defects are removed), adding more product to the pad if necessary. Once you work it in a bit, you'll likely see the finish through the diminishing haze and decide whether to keep going or wipe off the remaining product and move on. This is not an authoritative answer; It's just what works for me, so I'll certainly defer to a more expert opinion.
I have at least a half-dozen compounds on the shelf, but UC is the one I reach for most when working by hand because of its combination of effectiveness and ease of use.

Bill

[ffboy]

Re: How do you know when UC is "ready"?

UC even if it's SMAT, also becomes clear when it's about done, then just remove the residue after. Depending on the paint hardness, UC may finish up flawlessly or may end up with slight marring, if this happens, you can then move on to UP, which is also SMAT but with more polishing oils.

With UC/UC, it is important not to let the product dry. You may add product for more correction (as needed) or to reconstitute the product allowing you to remove the product while wet.

[Jarhead0754]

I don't see much there that would need UC, maybe say 205 or even black wax would b a great option.

[xilex]

Re: How do you know when UC is "ready"?

Thanks. It's a dark gray car, my camera LED is probably too dim to light it up well, but there's a bunch of these little lines over the car. I think I'll run it over with UP and see what happens, and then cover it up with the liquid wax. I'm not familiar with Black Wax, is it comparable to liquid wax? I already have the liquid wax so I think I'll use it up first.

[The Guz]

Re: How do you know when UC is "ready"?

Black wax is an all in one cleaner wax. Different than UW. I would go with white wax instead. You will be fine using UC by hand. You just don't want to over work it and let it dry. Same goes for UP. You apply it til it's almost opaque and then remove.

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: How do you know when UC is "ready"?

Hey xilex

Here's a nice write-up that will help you.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?30910-Tips-for-removing-swirls-by-hand-with-SMA-Technology

Also If I'm working by hand I will go straight to M105 or M100 unless I'm working on soft paints. The way I look at it is, my hand is no where near as good or do nearly as good as machine. So if it takes me 2 to 4 passes to clean up or remove swirls with a machine and I have to clean up some swirls under door handle, or ? I'm grabbing something with bite and a round applicator and work product in several passes (and make sure to keep your product on the area your focusing on, so you will have to get your product at the end of your throw and bring back to your work area) Then wipe away and check your process.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: How do you know when UC is "ready"?

The beauty of a DAT product is not having to be concerned about a certain "cycle". You can continue polishing until the job is done (the defects are removed), adding more product to the pad if necessary. Once you work it in a bit, you'll likely see the finish through the diminishing haze and decide whether to keep going or wipe off the remaining product and move on. This is not an authoritative answer; It's just what works for me, so I'll certainly defer to a more expert opinion.
I have at least a half-dozen compounds on the shelf, but UC is the one I reach for most when working by hand because of its combination of effectiveness and ease of use.

Bill

Bill really sums it up nicely here. UC works great by hand, no doubt about it. Once it's down to a thin film, which is what happens when the emulsion "breaks" then wipe off becomes very easy so that's when you should stop. You don't want to keep working it until it's dry, that's never a good idea regardless of what type of abrasive a product uses. As for the video you saw making the process look easy, well, it is. The only differences will be how hard the paint is, how bad the defects are, and what your ultimate goals are.