Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
You might want to get them cleaned up real good, and try the Brake Dust Barrier. Seems to work well to get the dirt to wash off with milder soaps.
If you get a lot of oil/tar on the paint (or painted wheels), TarX or TRIX could help during your 'complete' details.
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Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Originally posted by Murr1525 View PostHmm.. applying the wheel cleaner a bit heavy?
Never find pads or towels in stores...
I find just mixing some gold class wash with warm water, spraying them on the tires and agitating with a brush works just as well. I work at an oilfield place where we carry a bunch of rig wash..sometimes ill just use that and a pressure washer..works wonders. So..probably won't stick with hotshine.
Then follow up with endurance..which is really waaay to shiny lol. Going to switch to something else once I'm done with this bottle I think. Endurance looks like mirrors on my tires the first day, but everything seems to stick to them and it slings.
Yeah, you're right about that. Which is too bad! If autozone stocked meguiars microfibers, those things would fly off the shelves. At least if I was in there..
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Hmm.. applying the wheel cleaner a bit heavy?
Never find pads or towels in stores...
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Originally posted by Murr1525 View PostNot interchangeable. UQD is meant to remove light dust or bird droppings, and leave a little water repelling coating behind. Some people will use it after washing also for any left over drops.
QD can remove light dust/droppings more cheaply, and is also for claying.
And the UQW / Gold Class Spray Wax remove light water drops and leave a better coating behind if used after washing.
(Not getting into the Pro Line versions, but the trend still applies)
I mean, if you like it, then great. It just seems like its primary jobs are taken by other products. If you use a lot, you may prefer to buy the M135, and just re-fill your spray bottle.
That's how I use QD/UQD/Final Inspection, the way you described it. And with my suicide door windows, even after leaving them open for awhile and setting aside rags specifically to clean in all those crevices, water still comes trickling down once I'm done drying. So I use it to wipe off those water spots as well once they've dried.
I totally see what you're saying, and I guess it's just that extra water repelling coating UQD supposedly has that interests me? But QD never let me down either, and as I recall is an easier(might I say the easiest?) application/removal process with good results. Not sure if UQD leaves more of a shine than QD, but that's partially why I pay for it I guess.
Perhaps that coating really is obsolete when using UQW/GCSW after washing. Though some Gold Class products, along with some of my favorite Meguiars products(Perfect Clarity, Megs Microfiber Towels, Megs Applicator Pads) are difficult or impossible to come by where I'm at. So..ordering online is the only option there for me and consequently discourages me from experimenting with various products like gold class/nxt spray waxes and so on.
I see what you're saying though. Thanks for the tip. There may be no real need to spend the extra couple bucks on UQD. I definitely use alot, whether it's UQD or QD. Buying in mass would be a pretty good idea. I don't think of it too much, because as much as I use, it seems to last a good long while. If I had to ***** about one Megs product in particular that absolutely does not last for me, it's the Hot Shine Tire/Wheel Cleaner products. Those bottles are used up in two uses. That's no exaggeration.
Thanks so much for speaking with a beginner! Great tips and insight
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Not interchangeable. UQD is meant to remove light dust or bird droppings, and leave a little water repelling coating behind. Some people will use it after washing also for any left over drops.
QD can remove light dust/droppings more cheaply, and is also for claying.
And the UQW / Gold Class Spray Wax remove light water drops and leave a better coating behind if used after washing.
(Not getting into the Pro Line versions, but the trend still applies)
I mean, if you like it, then great. It just seems like its primary jobs are taken by other products. If you use a lot, you may prefer to buy the M135, and just re-fill your spray bottle.
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Originally posted by Murr1525 View PostNow that UQW/GCSW is out, I think UQD is a bit lost as far as uses.
Yeah, white clay in the Smooth Surface Clay kit is the one to use. Or maybe you bought the 3 bar replacement pack?
Blue is ok too... dont want red.
I use UQW after washes/in between real waxes. And that's it really. The rest of the time, I use UQD. It may come in handy for me more than other people, because it's a daily driver with no garage. Every morning I get up, my truck's horizonal panels are saturated with water/dew from sitting outside in this humidity. Then with the normal amounts of dust and dirt, there's very regularly a need for UQD to keep it looking nice.
Then if I don't have time to wash, or just don't feel like it and it's a bit dirtier than normal, I use Ultimate Wash & Wax Anywhere.
Yeah it's the smooth surface kit that I bought. And a good buy it was!
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Now that UQW/GCSW is out, I think UQD is a bit lost as far as uses.
Yeah, white clay in the Smooth Surface Clay kit is the one to use. Or maybe you bought the 3 bar replacement pack?
Blue is ok too... dont want red.
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Originally posted by Murr1525 View PostYeah, clay wont do scratches or anything, just surface grit.
Is it a blue clay, or white one? Or red? Tend to want the regular QD, not UQD while claying as well.
As far as the wax, you may want a line around the pad to get it saturated... then just drops on the surface.
Yeah I'll try the line around the pad
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Yeah, clay wont do scratches or anything, just surface grit.
Is it a blue clay, or white one? Or red? Tend to want the regular QD, not UQD while claying as well.
As far as the wax, you may want a line around the pad to get it saturated... then just drops on the surface.
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Originally posted by Murr1525 View PostAlso... you have to apply the wax thin... but it will work best if you can get the applicator coated a bit.
When you start off, 1 small drop on the pad is going to be part absorbed, part applied, and generally uneven. Once the pad gets loaded up (like doing more of the car), 1 small drop may do a whole door....
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Try a different wax?
I carey 6 different waxes with me and sometimes one works better then others.
If it's not working, it's not working.
Trying to get one product to do what you want, to me, is a waste of time.
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Originally posted by Murr1525 View PostWell, the liquid version is kind of 'new technology'... the paste is too, but it is closer to traditional, as far as applying/removing. So that may or may not make it easier for you.
If you arent happy with it, of course Meguiars will guarantee it and exchange it, so that may help, rather than having to buy two $20 waxes to try...
But be sure to apply very thin.
How did the clay turn out on the hood?
I have an issue with applying too much product many times..just a bad habit. I felt like this last coat was pretty thin but maybe not. I'll try to make it as thin as possible.
The clay..I think it turned out well. I used a small amount since I was just doing the hood. Used UQD and just clayed it little by little up and down and over the entire hood. I stayed in one area, keeping the surface wet with UQD until the clay would finally pass over the surface without resistance(or as close to without resistance as possible). Then I'd knead the clay back into itself and continue on. The surface looked hazy with residue from the clay afterwards so I did a full pass with UQD and wiped it off with a microfiber before compounding.
Initially I thought clay was supposed to be some kind of miracle product. Like removing big scratches and swirls. But I guess that's not the idea. For me, it's mostly in the feel. It makes detailing easier afterwards, and the contaminants it removes are right there on the clay for me to see. I can really feel a difference afterwards even if i can't see much of one.
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Also... you have to apply the wax thin... but it will work best if you can get the applicator coated a bit.
When you start off, 1 small drop on the pad is going to be part absorbed, part applied, and generally uneven. Once the pad gets loaded up (like doing more of the car), 1 small drop may do a whole door....
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Well, the liquid version is kind of 'new technology'... the paste is too, but it is closer to traditional, as far as applying/removing. So that may or may not make it easier for you.
If you arent happy with it, of course Meguiars will guarantee it and exchange it, so that may help, rather than having to buy two $20 waxes to try...
But be sure to apply very thin.
How did the clay turn out on the hood?
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Re: Trouble With Ultimate Liquid Wax
Originally posted by Murr1525 View PostThe liquid isnt necessarily as easy as others... or at least it is different.
People have had success either applying to a panel and removing right away, or applying to the whole car and then removing right away.
I applied to the whole car, then used a damp towel and a dry towel to remove, kind of like for RainX.
Since it is he next day, you may want to try QDing the hood.
You also could apply a second coat, and remove it with a damp towel, may help even things out.
I seem to recall that any streaking I got faded fairly soon.
Sometimes humidity messes with things, buy yeah, dont want to be rubbing hard.
Yeah I actually did this on labor day..so the next day(yesterday) I QD'd the hood, and rest of the truck. It looks and feels fine I guess, I just felt like i had to have done some damage to my wax job with how hard I was rubbing it off. The hood looks...alright, but it looks like a proper wax job would yield better results. Maybe I'm just being finnicky. Think I will take your suggestion and apply a second coat and try removing with a damp towel.
I didn't mention it in my first post but in response to your comment on humidity. It's something I constantly think about, but not sure how I could really get around it. I live in Louisiana where it is ALWAYS very very humid. Many days you can just go outside and start sweating without even moving around or doing work. So..it's nice to wait on dryer days but those are few and far between.
Thank you for responding
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