Ultimate Compound Not Removing Swirls

[soulless]

Well I just washed my car and used UC on my car. When I use it, it doesn't seem to remove the swirls after I use it and they are still there when my outdoor garage light shines on it.

Before I used the UC, the car was washed and dried, and fully clayed. (Started at around 5:30pm since it was finally in the shade)

When I use the UC on the foam pad for a while, it seems to dry out on the paint, even if I use a decent amount. After buffing it off, most of it comes off, but some tends to be very tough to buff off.

I don't know if I am not rubbing it long enough or something else?

[specv07]

Re: Ultimate Compound Not Removing Swirls

Well it sounds like you have "cobwebs" or typical swirl marks. Swirl marks are nothing more than microscopic scratches (micro-marring) of a finish. When light hits the edge of the scratch it reflects light, thus making noticable. With this brief technical stuff the point is you need a compound that removes it. Some refer to as polishing it. The prefered method is by a rotary polisher, since a DA only knocks the edge of the scratch off and the filler from the compound used would then blend it. In time it would come back thus explaining why you use a rotary. But since your doing this by hand you need a product on the consumer level designed for the purpose of swirls.

UC has micro abrasives in it, which is nothing new btw its been in pro stuff for decades. Anyway the trick to that stuff if done by hand is small circular motions overlapping 1/2 on each new part of surface with strong even pressure. Use only microfiber cloths, modern finishes tend to be to soft so almost anything can swirl them if not careful. This should evenly cut the film or topcoat of the finish. If swirls are still prevelant than you can try either ultimate polish or Swirl X

I have not used Swirl X by Meguiars or their Ultimate Polish to be blunt I have no use for it. But on a consumer level I am told both work well for your purpose. Swirl X I would reccomend and if you have an Auto Supplier that Carries Swirl Remover 2.0 I would reccomend you splurge and get the pro stuff.
This should rid your problem.

Also, if you can find the pro line Mirror Glaze I would strongly suggest you try M80 (Speed Glaze) I consider it fairly kept secret among pro's (at least around here) that it can be applied by hand. By hand does not give as dramatic of results as machine but it would help eliminate your problem. I would then Use Showcar Glaze M7, which is a pure polish (no cut) which does (not to start an argument here) help further blend swirls. Follow up with synthetic sealant 2.0

The swirls wont be eliminated since you are doing this by hand, however the rough edges that reflect light will be knocked down and filled. With a strong sealant or wax they at least wont resurface for a good duration of time. Heat and friction and the right compound rids the problem, but with hand use you can still get fairly impressive results. Hope this helps.

[specv07]

Re: Ultimate Compound Not Removing Swirls

Here are a few hood shots of my wife's car, which has not been washed in a week. I applied by hand the #80, #7 and Tech Sealant 2.0 (I prefer Collenite pastes but figured Id give the new sealant stuff a try). The only defects left are "etches" from acid rain which will require me to color sand the hood and compound it. Point is, you can get a darn good shine by hand using the right methods, a lot of elbow grease and patience.


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[agp56]

Re: Ultimate Compound Not Removing Swirls

What is your technique - how large of an area are you working at a time, how many passes over the area? A few more details could be helpful.....

[specv07]

Re: Ultimate Compound Not Removing Swirls

Sure thing.

1st-- your hand and a foam polishing pad are the buffer. Thus, you need to work the compound in a rapid circular motion, small sections at a time. For example the hood, divide it up it 6 sections or rectangles. Focus on each one individually. When you work with UC remember the micro abrasives need to work in. So, small rapid circles with firm even pressure will properly cut the paint. On each circle overlap the next by 1/2. When the product hazes perform the "finger check." If the remaining product swipes clear with a finger, then wipe off the excess with a microfiber cloth. Examine that section you worked on, if it is smooth to the touch and free of defects your good, if not repeat process. Also less product is more one section should only take a single line bead apx 4 inches long if its the hood (for example). You need heat and friction, not a **** load of product...

2nd-- perform same step on remainder of vehicle. Remember small sections, rapid firm circles till product hazes almost clear. Wipe with clean micro cloth.

3rd- buy a xenon or high powered spot light and blast it on finish examine for any additional defects that may need blended.

Just remember to make a rubbing compound work you need strong even pressure, with even circles. It also helps to overlap your circles 1/2 each time to further ensure that you are distributing the product properly. Foam pads seem to work best, back in the day you could find wool applicators but those are long long gone... So use foam applicators.

A little trick with micro abrasives (THE UC your using) a coat of detailer mist before wiping it off helps to pull up the residue faster, and add more sheen.

Compounding by hand will remove defects, and blemishes but leaves your finish lacking clarity, and that "wet" look. You need to polish it.

For what you are trying to accomplish I would strongly recommend you purchase Meguiars Mirror Glaze #80, but I also understand the difficulty in obtaining this product. That said, I know show car glaze is sold at pep boys, autozone, advance auto... By a bottle of this stuff it is 10 bux.

How to Apply Show Car Glaze-

Step 1- Paint should be cool to touch, and in shade as best as possible (It can be done in direct sunglight but this takes years of practice). What you must understand is that this is a pure polish, it does not "cut" instead it nourishes the paint. LESS IS MORE!!!!!! I have seen so many people dump this stuff over a hood and wonder why it is a pia to work with. A few very very small beads does a fender.

Step 2- With a foam applicator you will work in sections, prime the foam pad. Priming the foam pad means to spray it with a detailer mist. Work the product in a back to forth motion overlapping by 1/2 on each stroke. When you have covered the entire section your working on one time, work the product until it hazes. When it hazes mist a fine fine coat of detailer over it. Then buff dry until it shines with a diaper cloth (screw the microfiber in this case).

Step 3- Pop open a beer sit back, and enjoy how wet your car looks. Examine for any left over product. If you apply this stuff correctly there will not be any streaks in the finish.

Last step-- I am a die hard Collinite man, but have heard others rave of the Nxt Gen sealant. By a bottle of that to protect your paint.

[Tuck91]

Re: Ultimate Compound Not Removing Swirls

The consumer line offerings ( Ulitmate Compound, Swirl, etc) will work much better at removing defects by hand than using older products in the Mirror Glaze line (M80, M09, etc.)

[specv07]

Re: Ultimate Compound Not Removing Swirls

Have you tried them out Tuck91? I have been looking for something hand use when I am to lazy to drag out the old tank of a rotary polisher. Do they actually remove the defect, or do they just knock the edges down and hide the problem? *If they actually rid the problem by hand that would be a plusIt is not so much the fact that I gotta drag my old 8lb B/D rotary it is the fact you gotta remove some film to get them out, leaving the finish thinner with less room to work with the next time a serious defect arises.

[Markus Kleis]

Re: Ultimate Compound Not Removing Swirls

Have you tried them out Tuck91? I have been looking for something hand use when I am to lazy to drag out the old tank of a rotary polisher. Do they actually remove the defect, or do they just knock the edges down and hide the problem? If they actually rid the problem by hand that would be a plusIt is not so much the fact that I gotta drag my old 8lb B/D rotary it is the fact you gotta remove some film to get them out, leaving the finish thinner with less room to work with the next time a serious defect arises.

If you remove swirls or scratches with the least aggressive method possible you will have to remove the same amount of clear/paint to remove the defects regards of application method.

That said, working by hand will be less likely to go overkill and remove excessive paint, but using a rotary with a polishing pad and a moderate polish (as opposed to, let's say wool and a heavy compound) can in theory achieve the same defect removal as the hand method with less effort.

You're on the right track in thinking about using the least aggressive method to get the job done, just don't think the tool necessarily denotes a more aggressive method (one can remove excessive amounts of paint with a rubbing compound, a terry towel and some elbow grease, too!)

[greg0303]

Re: Ultimate Compound Not Removing Swirls

The consumer line offerings ( Ulitmate Compound, Swirl, etc) will work much better at removing defects by hand than using older products in the Mirror Glaze line (M80, M09, etc.)

Nick is absolutely right on track, as always. SMAT products would be the best approach as they perform extremely well on modern clear coats.

[specv07]

Re: Ultimate Compound Not Removing Swirls

It makes sense... My 07 Spec V is Water Based Clear Coat, royal nightmare. Finish is ultra soft, and M9 produces nice sheen but the swirls are still there if you blast the panels with a spotlight. I hate the finish, cannot wait to have the money together to have the finish stripped and re-shot.I am old school I guess, and I do not particular care for the modern finishes.