After seeing some great results with 105 by hand what kind of applicators are best to use?
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M105?
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Re: M105?
Originally posted by BlueZero View PostI use the yellow foam ones. Tim seems to like the microfiber ones. I think it all depends on the paint and how much 'bite' you are looking for.
Originally posted by Murr1525 View PostThe most bite would be terry cloth, but as mentioned, you would need to finish with foam to get the best finish.
Originally posted by jmakado View PostI prefer microfibers for #105. They seem to have enough "bite" to work the product well, yet also soft enough that it doesn't mar.
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Re: M105?
I used the #105 today and didn't quite get the results that others have. I applied the 105 using a new terry cloth twice and then followed it up using a new meguiars MF applicator. I pressed quite hard using the terry cloth and the MF, then lightened up a bit for the last use with the MF. Just about all of the water spots and other small defects are gone, but it only removed about 1/2 the swirls.
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Re: M105?
Originally posted by 99BlackStangMan View PostI used the #105 today and didn't quite get the results that others have. I applied the 105 using a new terry cloth twice and then followed it up using a new meguiars MF applicator. I pressed quite hard using the terry cloth and the MF, then lightened up a bit for the last use with the MF. Just about all of the water spots and other small defects are gone, but it only removed about 1/2 the swirls.
Do you own any polishers or buffers?
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Re: M105?
Originally posted by 99BlackStangMan View PostJust about all of the water spots and other small defects are gone, but it only removed about 1/2 the swirls.
Remember, we don't make the paint, paint manufactures make it to car manufactures specifications, I don't think car manufactures are asking for paints that the average person can work on by hand. Doubt they'll ever take this feature into consideration.
Modern clear coat paints are not user-friendly, they're not like the old single stage paints pre-1980
Those paints had their faults, (oxidation), but they were easier to work on. Modern clear coat paints last a lot longer and that's in part due to the type of resin used to make them and their resulting hardness.
So you have to sacrifice your ability to easily work on them for a finish that will last longer, just don't confuse the words Last Longer with Look good Longer. There's 2 letter "L's" in those two groups of words but a world of difference.
Here's a challenge, find a product that works better by hand. By the word better we mean a product that can be used by hand to remove below surface defects out of the paint without scratching and scouring the paint at the same time. If you can find one... first use it, and second... share it with everyone you meet trying to get swirls, scratches and water spots out of their clear coat paint by hand.
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