Announcement

**Murr1525** · Jun 25, 2012, 08:28 PM

Re: Recommended combo for a rotary newbie like me

You may want to buy an old hood from a junk yard...

**ffboy** · Jun 25, 2012, 08:46 PM

Re: Recommended combo for a rotary newbie like me

Thanks for the very quick reply, no worries about the practice panel. I figured out a way to practice, one of our cars isn't as cared for so it's not as shiny, I can practice on that car.

**jarred767** · Aug 26, 2012, 11:38 PM

Re: Recommended combo for a rotary newbie like me

Hey, how's the process with the new rotary coming along? I'm looking to pick one up and practice over the winter before adding it to my arsenal, so I will be looking to learn a lot too. Anything specific you can share that has really helped you in this new endeavor?

**Michael Stoops** · Aug 27, 2012, 02:12 PM

Re: Recommended combo for a rotary newbie like me

For those of you interested in picking up a rotary buffer and stepping up your skill set, we think it's a great idea. Just remember that using this tool is very different from what you're used to with a DA buffer so there are some very important differences to keep in mind:

1 - if you're used to using a fair bit of pressure with your DA, break that habit very quickly with the rotary. While you can easily get away with even extreme pressure on a DA, doing so on a rotary will get you into trouble very quickly. With good technique it's actually very, very difficult to burn through the paint in the middle of a panel with a rotary, but if you can't break that pressure habit, you'll create a lot of heat in a matter of seconds and that can quickly lead to problems.

2 - aggressiveness of pad plays an even bigger role with the rotary buffer, especially when it comes to foam cutting pads; these will generate extremely high temperatures in no time if you dwell on one spot, add some pressure or worse, a combination of the two. A wool pad will often cut faster than a foam cutting pad, but it won't generate as much heat

3 - beware of high spots, panel edges, trim, head and tail light lenses, etc, especially with a foam pad. We've all seen people tape off trim, etc when using a DA buffer and that's to keep things clean. You tape off when using a rotary not only to keep things clean, but also to protect these materials. Spinning a foam pad at speed and merely tapping these materials can do real damage, so pay extremely close attention to the space around the pad.

4 - if you're buffing on a test panel, and we highly recommend this to start with, get a feel for how quickly things can go wrong by trying to damage an edge, etc. Play around with buffing off an edge, rather than allowing the pad to spin up onto the edge. You'll not only limit the risk of damage, but you'll have much, much better control of the pad. Feel how tipping the pad slightly to one side or another causes the buffer to "walk" across the paint. This is the time to find out how quickly things can turn nasty, not when you're working on a car you care about. Ideally your test panel will have some curves, high spots, body lines, etc that you can experiment on. A totally flat hood isn't a great learning environment since it doesn't challenge you deal with complex curves, convex or concave areas, etc.

5 - slow down to work faster. If you swing that buffer back and forth quickly, or run the pad up on edge, you're going to create problems that need to be fixed later, and you'll start getting used to working that way which will ultimately cause you to struggle to achieve a hologram free finish.

6 - worry less about being able to pick up a bead of product without splattering it all over the place, and more about controlling the buffer and creating the sort of finish you're looking for. You can refine that pick up later and let's face it: if you can pick up a bead without splattering a drop but you're flinging the buffer from side to side on the edge of pad, you'll create a bunch of holograms on a perfectly clean car. We'd rather see a beautiful shine and some product splatter than can be cleaned up later.

Obviously this is just touching the surface. If you're really proficient with a DA you'll find this to be quite a different experience, but your existing comfort level with a power tool should help. Just remember that everything you do kind of goes up exponentially when moving from DA to rotary - both the good and the bad!

**smack** · Aug 28, 2012, 07:09 AM

Re: Recommended combo for a rotary newbie like me

/\ Great advice Mike

**jarred767** · Aug 29, 2012, 11:25 PM

Re: Recommended combo for a rotary newbie like me

Yeah that's was really great advice Mike. One follow-up question for you.

So, I have roughly six years of experience with a DA and feel very comfortable with it. I'm planning on adding a rotary to the repertoire for jobs that need a little extra to get right, and I'm also planning on coming down there for the NXT class in September. Would you suggest someone in my shoes getting a tool and practice panel right away and practicing before the class so I have some experience with it when I get there? Or would I be better off to just wait a month and start with a clean slate down there learning from the pros? I'm in no hurry or anything, so timing doesn't play any factor in my decision; I just want to be able to learn and practice over the winter while the business isn't quite as demanding and really incorporate it into the mix come late winter early spring. TIA

**Michael Stoops** · Aug 30, 2012, 07:58 AM

Re: Recommended combo for a rotary newbie like me

Jarred, it's probably a good idea to pick up a rotary now and start playing with it a bit before taking the NXT Class in a few weeks time. You shouldn't have enough time to develop any really bad habits and at least you'll have a feel for how different it is from a DA buffer so it won't be totally alien to you at the class. You'll likely come across some situations that make you question whether you're doing things right or not, and you'll be able to have those concerns more directly addressed during the class.

One of the most common mistakes we see people make when transitioning from the DA to the rotary is the use of pressure on the pad. Moderate to heavy pressure on the pad is common and even necessary with a DA buffer, but on a rotary it's almost never a good thing. We see people heat up panels very quickly when using a rotary for the first time in our Advanced Class, and often it's the guys with a lot of DA experience doing it. Habits are hard to break and this is a major technique difference between the two tools.

**jarred767** · Aug 30, 2012, 08:53 AM

Re: Recommended combo for a rotary newbie like me

Mike, thanks for the tips and advice, I will definitely keep the pressure thing in mind when practicing as I can see how this could definitely be an issue. Since you suggest to start practicing before the class, it poses one final question for me, which machine to buy. I've done a bunch of research and I feel like I've narrowed it down to two options, but figured I'd ask for your input - as well as anyone else who has used either or both of these two rotaries.

Makita 9227c - http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9227CX3...ds=makita+9227

Dewalt DWP849X - http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP849X...ref=pd_cp_hi_1

The Dewalt has a list price almost three times the Makita, but its "on sale" at Amazon for the same price as the Makita. Seems like they have similar features and benefits. The Dewalt is newer with a few extra bells and whistles from what I can tell, but the Makita seems to be the standard and most common on these threads. Any thoughts or advice on either machine from anyone would be greatly appreciated and aid in the decision for which one to go with. Thanks,

Announcement

Recommended combo for a rotary newbie like me

Recommended combo for a rotary newbie like me

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment