• If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Vector Rotary - got some questions

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • #1

    Vector Rotary - got some questions

    I picked up a Vector wax master rotary and have used it a few times with excellent results. I have just guessed on the speeds to use, erring on the side of caution.

    Does anyone know what RPMs the speed settings equate to? I have been using speed 4.5 to 5 for compounding and speeds 3-4 for polishing. This seems about right but I have no idea what RPMs those speeds equate to.

    I've used 83 and a W8006 pad with fantastic results. Same with 80. Overall I'm very happy with it, but I'd feel more comfortable if I knew the speeds I am using are appropriate.

    Thanks in advance
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Re: Vector Rotary - got some questions

    Originally posted by kerrinjeff View Post
    I picked up a Vector wax master rotary and have used it a few times with excellent results. I have just guessed on the speeds to use, erring on the side of caution.

    Does anyone know what RPMs the speed settings equate to? I have been using speed 4.5 to 5 for compounding and speeds 3-4 for polishing. This seems about right but I have no idea what RPMs those speeds equate to.

    I've used 83 and a W8006 pad with fantastic results. Same with 80. Overall I'm very happy with it, but I'd feel more comfortable if I knew the speeds I am using are appropriate.

    Thanks in advance
    I think you're going too fast... I have a Vector sitting in the basement... let me check through some info on my comp and get back to you with the numbers.
    Ivan Rajic - LUSTR Auto Detail
    Chicago, Illinois

    Recognized as One of the Top Nine Auto Detailers in the US by AutoWeek Magazine!!

    Comment

    • #3
      Re: Vector Rotary - got some questions

      Here is what I based on my use of the Vector... http://classic-motoring.stores.yahoo.net/veprcipo.html

      I don't know if that's the same one you're talking about though...?

      After comparing the Vector to my makita, those numbers on the link above seem just about right
      Ivan Rajic - LUSTR Auto Detail
      Chicago, Illinois

      Recognized as One of the Top Nine Auto Detailers in the US by AutoWeek Magazine!!

      Comment

      • #4
        Re: Vector Rotary - got some questions

        Thanks for the info guys. 500 RPM for each number is an easy guide to follow. I might add a .5 to each number to compensate for no electronic speed control.

        Another question - about how hot should the surface get when compounding? I'll do 2-3 passes in each direction with 105 and it gets pretty hot. If I was using too high of a speed then I can see how it was probably getting too hot.

        I worked my hood with LC yellow pad and 105 and my hood got pretty hot to the touch. Could it get hot enough to deform the thin sheet metal? The paint wasnt burned or anything - in fact it's the glossiest it's ever been!

        Comment

        • #5
          Re: Vector Rotary - got some questions

          Originally posted by kerrinjeff View Post

          Another question - about how hot should the surface get when compounding? I'll do 2-3 passes in each direction with 105 and it gets pretty hot. If I was using too high of a speed then I can see how it was probably getting too hot.

          I worked my hood with LC yellow pad and 105 and my hood got pretty hot to the touch. Could it get hot enough to deform the thin sheet metal? The paint wasn't burned or anything - in fact it's the glossiest it's ever been!
          A good rule of thumb is you should always be able to place the palm of your hand onto the paint that you've just buffed and your "Fight or Flight" instincts should not cause you to IMMEDIATELY remove your hand, as in let out a yell and move you hand away from the hood at the speed of light.

          You should be able to place the palm of your hand on the surface and it can be real warm but not so hot that you want to remove your hand quickly.

          Does that make sense?

          Mike Phillips
          760-515-0444
          showcargarage@gmail.com
          "Find something you like and use it often"

          Comment

          • #6
            Re: Vector Rotary - got some questions

            Originally posted by Mike Phillips View Post
            A good rule of thumb is you should always be able to place the palm of your hand onto the paint that you've just buffed and your "Fight or Flight" instincts should not cause you to IMMEDIATELY remove your hand, as in let out a yell and move you hand away from the hood at the speed of light.

            You should be able to place the palm of your hand on the surface and it can be real warm but not so hot that you want to remove your hand quickly.

            Does that make sense?

            Thanks that's an excellent guide. That's about how hot the surface was - didn't cause me to jerk my hand back, but definitely warm nonetheless.

            I'm having a ball learning all of these detailing techniques

            Comment

            • #7
              Re: Vector Rotary - got some questions

              Also just to note,

              There's a difference between buffing out an entire panel and buffing out only isolated defects in a small area. With a large area you're moving the buffer over a large area and there's some time for heat to dissipate.

              When you work on a small area because you're trying to remove isolated defects you have to be more aware of temperature and if you find the paint getting to hot then turn the buffer off and let the paint cool before buffing some more.

              This thread has pictures of buffing out isolated defects and in both cases we were continuously stopping to feel the paint to make sure we weren't getting the paint too hot.

              Paint Workability - The Hardness or Softness of your car's paint


              When only buffing the areas with sanding marks, pay more attention to heat.





              John aka fatchance, let us do a little wet-sanding on his Chrysler 300 as the hood was hit with an egg and it left some deeper scratches on the hood.




              This photo was actually taken after wet-sanding with a backing pad and then using a rotary buffer with a cutting pad and M84 Compound Power Cleaner to remove the sanding marks. We didn't get any pictures of how bad the scratches were before we started but you'll get the idea...




              After removing all the lighter scratches from the process above, we then cut up some small pieces of Nikken #2500 grit Finishing Paper to zero in on just the scratches while sanding.






              After sanding each of the individual scratches flat, we then removed the sanding marks using the W-7006 Foam Cutting pad with some more M84 Compound Power Cleaner at around 1500 rpm.




              So focus on the task at hand and try to get a feel, (no pun intended), as to how many passes you can make before heat becomes an issue.

              Also remember some panel materials will either dissipate or hold heat better than others, for example steel hood will hold heat longer than an aluminum hood.
              Mike Phillips
              760-515-0444
              showcargarage@gmail.com
              "Find something you like and use it often"

              Comment

              • #8
                Re: Vector Rotary - got some questions

                Thanks for the great info That writeup is great, and leads me into my next area of interest ... wetsanding !

                Comment

                Previous template Next
                Working...
                X
                gtag('config', 'UA-161993-8');