Water Spots Question! Very Important!

[Heiress Hilton]

I have noticed that the other day when I 3 step waxed my car, the hood had waterspots. Everywhere else was fine except my hood. I can't see them in direct sunlight unless i put my hand in front of it (to make a shadow) and then i can see the very light outline of a water spot.

Should I : Use Scratch X, then Steps 1 - 3 again

or

Just use steps 1 - 3 again

or

Use a clay bar and then steps 1 - 3?

I want my car to look great for the weekend and I already did the entire car 1 - 3 on Monday, so if I redo the hood, do i need to do my entire car?

Please help!

[Mike Phillips]

There are two kinds of water spots,

1) Above Surface Mineral Deposits
2) Below Surface Water Spot Etchings


Type I Water Spots

Type I Water Spots are what Meguiar's refers to as Above Surface Bonded Contaminants. A Type I water spot is some type of deposit, often times a mineral deposit that was in the water source, sitting on top of the surface.

If you have Type I water spots, you can use either a clay bar or a paint cleaner like ScratchX by hand. Clay bars are for removing above surface defects and will typically do a good job of remove Type I water spots/deposits from off the surface. Sometimes you may have to follow the claying process with a paint cleaner like ScratchX to completely remove all traces of where the mineral deposits attached to the finish.

Type I Water Spots






Type II Water Spots - Deposits on the surface
Type II Water Spots are what Meguiar's refers to as Below Surface Defects. A Type II Water Spot is actually an etching in the surface where whatever was in the water was strong enough in it's chemical composition to actually eat or dissolve the paint and thus etch into the paint.

If you Type II Water Spots, you can use a paint cleaner by hand such as ScratchX, or a machine applied product such as a compound, paint cleaner, or cleaner/polish to machine clean the finish, removing a small amount of paint in an effort to level, or smooth out the finish. The goal is to remove just enough paint to level the surface with the lowest depths of the defect.

Just to be clear, removing Type II Water Spots means removing paint. As such, you are limited as to how much paint you can remove. In some cases you may want to check with a seasoned professional for their advise before attempting to remove below surface defects like Type II Water Spots.


Type II Water Spots - Etchings below the surface


Close-up of same photo above


Click here to add your comments or ask questions about this article...

[Mike Phillips]

Often times you will need to use a combination of both clay and a paint cleaner like ScratchX to remove water spots on and in the paint. Claying will remove any deposit on the surface, but usually there will be an impression in the paint where the water spot formed that claying will not remove. For this impression you will need to use ScratchX.

The Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner is a chemical only paint cleaner and it typically isn't aggressive enough to remove Type II water spots.

After claying your finish and anytime you use a paint cleaner you will at a minimum have to re-apply wax as detailing clay and paint cleaners remove any wax on the surface leaving it un-protected.

Applying a pure polish like the Deep Crystal Polish after using a paint cleaner and before applying a wax is an option step, but one that will usually take your results to a higher level.

Hope this helps...

[Heiress Hilton]

Thanks so much! But let me make sure i understood correctly on the steps:

1. Step 1 (cleaner)
2. Clay
3. Step 2 (polish)
4. Sep 3 Wax

And that should make my hood spot free again, right? Thanks!

Oh and should I open my hood and then shut it again (not fully) with some soft cloths lining between the hood and fenders, so i don't accidently wipe the clay on to the fenders?

[Murr1525]

Your order is a little off...

1. Wash
2. Clay - remove above surface debris first.
3. Clean - then remove defects in the paint.
4. Polish - then fill in the pores and add oils
5. Wax - then protect

It should work great.. though some things can be stubborn.

Not a bad idea to protect the fenders, as you wouldnt want to redo hard work, either from the clay or the scratchX. Just to be clear as well, the clay may remove wax, the ScratchX will remove wax.

[Mike Phillips]

Follow Murr1525's order, and I added where the ScratchX should be...

1. Wash
2. Clay - remove above surface debris first.
3. Clean - then remove defects in the paint. --> ScratchX
4. Polish - then fill in the pores and add oils
5. Wax - then protect

[Heiress Hilton]

But the scratchx is safe to use on the paint and won't hurt it? right? my bf said that he used step one, then clayed, then used the step 2 and 3. He said it should work, but the scratchx, i am assuming is replacing the step 1 paint cleaner? Why would you clay first if the wax is still on the car? Wouldn't i use the paint cleaner first, then the clay bar?

Sorry if I am repeating myself, i just want to be sure i know what to do and why i am using certain products so i don't damage my car's paint.

Thanks

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Heiress Hilton
But the ScratchX is safe to use on the paint and won't hurt it? right?

Yes, it is absolutely safe.

my bf said that he used step one, then clayed, then used the step 2 and 3. He said it should work, but the ScratchX, i am assuming is replacing the step 1 paint cleaner? Why would you clay first if the wax is still on the car? Wouldn't i use the paint cleaner first, then the clay bar?

You typically remove above surface contaminants first, (this gets them out of the way), and then use the paint cleaner. The only exception would be severely oxidized finishes.

Sorry if I am repeating myself, i just want to be sure i know what to do and why i am using certain products so i don't damage my car's paint.

We're here to help you!

Try reading these three threads, especially the 5-Step Paint Care Cycle. Notice the order in which the products are listed in both threads...

Wash
Clay
Clean
Polish
Protect

Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle

How To Remove Swirls By Hand

[Heiress Hilton]

Mike,

Do I even need to us DC #1 at all since I will be using ScratchX as the cleaner?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Heiress Hilton
Mike,

Do I even need to us DC #1 at all since I will be using ScratchX as the cleaner?

No, you use one or the other.

Remember, in the Meguiar's line, only our waxes need to dry and should be left to dry, everything else should by wiped off after applying it and working it in.

[Murr1525]

DC#1 is very mild, and will not remove scratches. But it is gentle and easy to use.

ScratchX is aggressive to remove swirls, but a bit time consuming.

What you will want to do is use the ScratchX this time to remove swirls, scratches, etc. In the future, when you have no swirls to remove, you will just use DC#1 as your paint cleaner.

[RamAirV1]

If the water spots are that bad, etched into the paint, you will be better off getting a G-100 and some #83. In my experience that will usually remove the water spots.

I know the G-100 is a major expenditure, but it pays for itself in time saved. The results that you get with it cannot be duplicated by hand.

RamAirV1