Scratch X - no foam pad

[integraoligist]

I was reading the article on the best way to use Scratch X (by hand) and it says to use a Foam Applicator Pad...
I dont have one of them, however i DO have:
MF Towels
Cotton Applicator Pads
Cotton Towels

Would any of these do the trick?

Besides from taking out regular scratches, i want to test it on taking out 2000 Grit sandpaper marks... do i use the same method?
Or should I put a Harsh pad on the PC and apply Scratch X that way?

Note: I do not have a rotary buffer.

Thanks all!

[integraoligist]

btw, what is Scratch X rated as on your Cutting scale?

I've got #80 (scale of 4) and #83 (scale of 6)

would #83 be better to use on PC then Scratch X to remove the sanding marks?

[Mike Phillips]

You can apply ScratchX using a microfiber applicator, a terry cloth applicator or a foam applicator all will work fine.

Here's something to remember when working on paints like clear coat finishes,

Clear coat paints are scratch-senstive


Here's what this means, it's easy to put a scratch into these types of paint and because they are a clear layer of paint over a color coat of paint, the color coat of paint under the clear coat tends to highlight and make more noticeable any and all swirls and scratches to your eyes.


If you're working on a clear, high gloss, defect free clear coat finish, you must be somewhat careful when

Choosing your product
Choosing your applicator
Choosing your technique

Foam is softer and more gentle to a clear coat finish than an applicator with a fiber surface when pressure is applied aggressively. The fiber surface can be considered a type of abrasive, (as gentle as it is), and gives your product of choice more bite. This can be good for removing a defect, (by that I mean removing the paint around a defect), but for the same reason you have to be careful that in the process of removing one defect you don't leave behind another defect from your process.

A microfiber applicator or a terry cloth applicator will be more effective at removing sanding marks by hand because these types of material are going to give your product more bite and thus be more effective at removing paint.

You might want to obtain a foam applicator pad to re-polish these areas to insure a smooth, glossy finish after working out the sanding marks with your fiber type applicator.

It's really all about understanding your car's paint and how it reacts to abrading/polishing.

Does that help?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by integraoligist
btw, what is Scratch X rated as on your Cutting scale?

I've got #80 (scale of 4) and #83 (scale of 6)

would #83 be better to use on PC then Scratch X to remove the sanding marks?

Your comparing apples to oranges. ScratchX is a hand applied paint clearer, the 80's series , while they can be applied by hand, best results for removing defects, (i.e. removing paint), is with a machine. If you'll note, the bottles of M80 Speed Glaze and M83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish have a picture of Mike Pennington using a rotary buffer and a correlating pad. This is a picture type to convey a message to the user.

Just for fun, try using these three product all by hand, with the same type of applicator and see which one works best for you to remove your sanding marks.

By the way, I'm pretty sure I posted this for you at least one other time in a different thread, removing sanding marks out of a clear coat finish is very hard, unless the clear coat finish is brand new as in freshly sprayed, and soft, this is why Pro's use a rotary buffer. They understand they cannot effectively remove sanding marks by hand when working on clear coats.

Have you got any specific how-to information from any other forum on how-to do this kind of work?

[integraoligist]

negitive, just various information from random people here and there...

So in reguards to the MF and Cotton Towels, neither should be used, correct? Only use an actual Applicator pad for this job...


I noticed the Black Viper in the article, though i wish i had a Viper, I do have the same Black paint
I saw how well the etched bird dripping was takin out, then how you went over it all with #83, then #80 then Wax to get that perfect finish.

I do now know how Hard Acura's clearcoats are, any experience?

[The Eagle]

Hi, you could use some cotton (cottonball), this works great too.

Greetz

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by integraoligist
negative, just various information from random people here and there...

Just curious. I notice on other forums there are a lot of self-appointed Keyboard Guru's always eager to add their fluff posts to a thread. I never see, or actually, read any meaty information, as in real, specific how-to information when it comes to using the correct techniques for your hands, or machines to apply specific products to get specific results. I'll guess two reasons for this are because in order to write about something you have to have actually performed the thing you're attempting to write about, and another reason would be the fear of staking your reputation on the line and taking responsibility for the words/information/recommendations you post to a public forum. That's neither here nor there, like I said I was just curious.

So in regards to the MF and Cotton Towels, neither should be used, correct? Only use an actual Applicator pad for this job...

No you can use a microfiber or a cotton towel, it's actually easier to cut one of these things up and use a piece of a microfiber or cotton towel as having a lot of cloth involved in the process is cumbersome and the dry areas will tend to absorb, dry or remove the product you're applying with the whetted portion of a larger towel or microfiber.

The advantage to using an actual applicator, one in which the material is wrapped around and enclosing a peice of foam is that the foam will help to spread out the force your fingers are exerting more evenly. IF you take your four fingers and press down on a peice of flat cloth against the finish, you will dramatically increase the aggressiveness of your abrading action which is good for removing paint, but the downside is you will tend to leave behind finger scratches in the paint. Again, as mentioned in a previous post in this thread, you will be removing one defect, for example sanding marks, but leaving behind finger marks or scratching. And again, as mentioned previously, you can then remove this by re-cleaning the area using something less aggressive, i.e. a foam applicator.

Removing defects is about removing paint using a series or processes, products and in this case different applicator materials in an effort to continually remove a defect until the last process where the finest of defects are removed and the finish is ready for application of a pure polish or wax.

I noticed the Black Viper in the article, though i wish i had a Viper, I do have the same Black paint
I saw how well the etched bird dripping was taking out, then how you went over it all with #83, then #80 then Wax to get that perfect finish.

We worked on this Viper by hand and by machine for two reason,

1. To teach people the correct techniques for using their hands and for using a machine.

2. A machine will always produce better results than your hands, because the owner is a passionate car enthusiast, he wants the best looking finish possible, thus the reason we used a machine to improve upon the results we had already achieved working by hand.

I do now know how Hard Accura's clearcoats are, any experience?

Experience on one Acura wouldn't matter when it comes to working on your Accura, paint hardness can vary even on the same model coming down the same assembly line, thus the reason for this little saying...

"You don't know what you can do until you try"

I don't know if a paint is hard or soft until I bring my hand down onto the finish and apply ScratchX one or two times, usually by the time I remove the second or third application, if I'm not seeing an improvement, (in other words, the defect is becoming less noticeable to my eyes because I'm removing the paint around it), then I know the paint is fairly hard, if not very hard and I'll have to switch over a machine applied Professional product, or it's possible the defect cannot be removed at all.

[integraoligist]

ok, i got done wetsanding with 2000 grit, found a MF applicator and applied Scratch X... hit it for 3 coats, buffed out pretty good but still some hazing and dullness....

I assume after going over the entire car with the 83 then 80 then Wax, it should bighten that area up more and look more like the rest of the paint?

[RamAirV1]

I use a Viper Power Clean Microfiber applicator pad with Scratch X. Like Mike says, it really increases the bite of the Scratch X. It's just perfect for GM paint with hard clearcoat.

Mike what about the new #2? Have you used it yet? What are your impressions of it?

RamAirV1

[Lt1Corvette]

I have used the new #2. I like it, it is a good product between 80 and 83. Buffes out really easy and you don't have to use much. I still find a little light marring with it under the xenon light. I get the same with 83. A go over with 80 and a polishing pad or 82 and a polishing pads seems to clean everything up realy nice.

[RamAirV1]

Originally posted by Lt1Corvette
I have used the new #2. I like it, it is a good product between 80 and 83. Buffes out really easy and you don't have to use much. I still find a little light marring with it under the xenon light. I get the same with 83. A go over with 80 and a polishing pad or 82 and a polishing pads seems to clean everything up realy nice.

I would imagine the #2 takes less time to use by PC than the #83 as the diminishing abrasives would break down more quickly. And I would definitely follow up the #2 with #80 or maybe even #81.

What size bottle does #2 come in?

This is probably something I can get locally.

RamAirV1

[integraoligist]

heres a pic... i had to re-dab paint on a couple of sections so i can wetsand it a little bit more tomarrow... will apply 3 coats of Scratch X after that...




I shaved my emblems, and repainted, and used 2000 grit on that panel as well... 2 applications and it's SPOTLESS!

the sidemolding and the rear or the hatch must have diffrent clearcoat or something on them.